How To Transplant Lilacs

Moving a lilac bush might seem daunting, but with the right timing and technique, you can succeed. This simple step-by-step guide on how to transplant lilacs will walk you through the entire process, ensuring your fragrant shrub thrives in its new home.

Lilacs are tough, resilient plants, but they do have specific preferences. The key to a successful move lies in minimizing root disturbance and getting the timing just right. Let’s get your shovel ready and give your lilac the best chance for a smooth transition.

Transplanting is more than just digging and moving. It’s a process that starts with preparation and ends with attentive aftercare. Following these steps in order is crucial for the health of your shrub.

When is the Best Time to Move Lilacs?

Timing is the most critical factor. Get this wrong, and the plant will struggle to recover.

Dormant Season (Ideal): The absolute best time is late fall, after the leaves have dropped but before the ground freezes. This allows roots to establish without supporting top growth.
Early Spring (Second Best): Move the lilac very early in spring, as soon as the ground is workable but before new leaf buds begin to swell. The window is short.
Times to Avoid: Never transplant during summer heat or when the shrub is in active growth or bloom. It will likely wilt and die from the shock.

Gathering Your Tools and Supplies

Being prepared makes the job smoother. Here’s what you’ll need:

A sharp, clean spade
A garden fork
Burlap or an old tarp for moving the root ball
Pruning shears (loppers for thick branches)
Garden hose and water source
Compost or aged manure
Mulch (wood chips or shredded bark)

Step 1: Prepare the New Planting Hole First

This is a vital step often overlooked. You want to minimize the time the roots are exposed. Dig the new hole before you dig up the lilac. The hole should be at least twice as wide as the expected root ball and just as deep. Mix some compost into the soil you removed.

Step 2: Prune the Lilac

Since you will be removing a significant portion of the roots, you need to balance the plant by reducing its top growth. This reduces stress and water loss.

Cut back about one-third of the older, thicker stems at the base to encourage new growth.
Trim the remaining branches back by roughly one-third of their length.
Remove any dead or weak wood entirely.

Step 3: Dig Up the Root Ball

This requires care and patience. Your goal is to preserve as many feeder roots as possible.

Water the lilac deeply one or two days before digging. This hydrates the plant and helps the soil hold together.
Start digging a trench in a circle around the shrub, about 12-18 inches from the main stems for established plants. The trench should be at least a foot deep.
Once the trench is dug, begin angling your spade underneath the root ball. Use the garden fork to gently loosen the soil and sever any deep taproots.
Work your way around until the root ball is free. For a mature lilac, the root ball will be heavy—don’t try to lift it by the stems.

Step 4: Move the Lilac

Slide the burlap or tarp under the root ball. Carefully drag or carry the shrub to its new location. Keep the root ball intact and moist; if the move will take more than a few minutes, wrap the ball in the damp burlap.

Step 5: Planting in the New Location

Proper planting depth is essential for lilacs, which can be fussy about it.

Place the root ball in the center of the prepared hole. The top of the root ball should be level with, or just slightly above, the surrounding soil grade. Lilacs hate being planted too deep.
Backfill the hole with the soil-compost mix, firming it gently around the roots to eliminate large air pockets.
Create a shallow basin around the base to hold water.
Water thoroughly and slowly until the soil is completely saturated. This helps settle the soil.

Step 6: Aftercare is Crucial

Your job isn’t over once the lilac is in the ground. The next year is about support and recovery.

Watering: Provide about an inch of water per week for the first full growing season, unless rainfall is sufficient. Deep, infrequent watering is better than frequent sprinkles.
Mulching: Apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch around the base (but not touching the stems) to retain moisture and regulate soil temperature.
Fertilizing: Do not fertilize at planting time. You can apply a light, balanced fertilizer or more compost in the following spring.
Flowering: Do not be surprised if the lilac skips blooming for a year or two after transplant. It’s putting energy into root establishment. This is normal and a sign its doing what it should.

Special Case: Transplanting Lilac Suckers

Lilacs often send up shoots (suckers) from their roots. These are genetic clones of the parent plant and are excellent for transplanting.

In early spring or fall, locate a healthy sucker about 12-24 inches tall.
Use a sharp spade to sever the root connection to the mother plant, getting as many of the sucker’s own roots as possible.
Dig it up and transplant it immediately, following the same planting steps. These often establish quicker than large, mature shrubs.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Transplanting at the wrong time of year. This is the number one cause of failure.
Planting too deep. Always err on the side of planting a little high.
Not watering consistently during the first critical year.
Over-fertilizing, which can burn new roots and promote leaf growth over root growth.
Choosing a spot with poor drainage or insufficient sun. Lilacs need well-drained soil and at least 6 hours of direct sun to flower well.

FAQ: Your Lilac Transplant Questions Answered

How deep are lilac roots?
Lilac roots are relatively shallow but wide-spreading. Most feeder roots are in the top 12-18 inches of soil, but they can extend out twice the width of the shrub’s canopy. When digging, focus on width rather than extreme depth.

Can you transplant a large, mature lilac?
Yes, but it’s more labor-intensive and the risk of shock is higher. The root ball will be very heavy. For very old lilacs, consider propagating from suckers instead for a more reliable result. The recovery time for a mature shrub will also be longer.

Why did my transplanted lilac die?
Common reasons include transplant shock from summer moving, root ball drying out during the process, severe root damage during digging, planting in a too-wet location, or simply inconsistent watering after the move. Sometimes its a combination of factors.

How long before a transplanted lilac blooms?
Be patient. It’s typical for a transplanted lilac to take 2-3 years to settle in and produce a normal bloom show. The plant is prioritizing root growth first, which is a good thing. If it has plenty of sun, the flowers will return.

Is it better to transplant lilacs in fall or spring?
Fall is generally preferred because the plant is entering dormancy and can focus entirely on root growth without the demands of leaves and flowers. Spring transplanting works if done very early, but you must be diligent with summer watering.

Transplanting a lilac is a rewarding project that can save a beloved shrub or help you redesign your garden. By following this simple step-by-step guide, you give your lilac the strongest foundation for a healthy and fragrant future. Remember, the extra care you take in the first year will pay off for decades to come as your lilac grows and blooms in its perfect new spot.