If you have an elderberry that’s outgrown its spot or you simply want to share a piece of it, knowing how to transplant elderberry is a key skill. This simple step-by-step guide will walk you through the entire process, ensuring your shrub thrives in its new home.
Elderberries are remarkably resilient plants. With the right timing and technique, transplanting them is very straightforward. Whether it’s a young sapling or a mature bush, you can move it successfully.
Let’s get your elderberry settled into a better place.
How To Transplant Elderberry
Successful transplantation hinges on three things: timing, preparation, and aftercare. Getting these elements right minimizes stress on the plant and speeds up its recovery. The goal is to make the move as seamless as possible for the roots.
When is the Best Time to Transplant Elderberry?
The ideal time is when the plant is dormant. This means it’s not actively growing leaves or flowers. During dormancy, the plant’s energy is focused on its roots, making it better able to handle the shock of being moved.
- Late Fall: After the leaves have dropped but before the ground freezes solid. This allows some root establishment before winter.
- Early Spring: Just as the ground thaws but before new buds begin to swell. This gives the plant a full growing season to recover.
- Avoid Summer: Transplanting in hot weather puts immense stress on the plant, as it’s trying to support foliage while its damaged roots struggle to take up water.
Choosing and Preparing the New Planting Site
Don’t dig up your elderberry until its new home is completely ready. This reduces the time the roots are exposed to air.
- Sunlight: Elderberries prefer full sun to partial shade. At least 6 hours of direct sun is best for good fruit production.
- Soil: They are adaptable but thrive in moist, well-draining, fertile soil. They can tolerate occasional wet feet but not constant standing water.
- Space: These shrubs can grow 6-12 feet wide. Ensure you have adequate space for its mature size, away from buildings or other plants.
To prepare the site, dig a hole that is two to three times wider than the rootball you expect to dig up. The depth should be roughly the same as the rootball’s height. Loosen the soil in the hole and mix in some well-rotted compost.
Tools and Materials You’ll Need
- A sharp spade or shovel
- Pruning shears or loppers
- A tarp or piece of burlap
- Watering can or hose
- Compost or aged manure
- Mulch (wood chips or straw)
Step-by-Step Transplanting Process
Step 1: Prune the Elderberry
Before you dig, cut the shrub back hard. This reduces the amount of top growth the reduced root system needs to support. Prune it down to about 1-2 feet tall. Don’t worry, elderberries grow vigorously from old wood.
Step 2: Dig Up the Rootball
Start digging a trench in a circle around the plant, about 1.5 to 2 feet from the main stems for a mature shrub. For a younger plant, you can go a bit closer. Dig down and under the root mass, aiming to get as much of the root system as possible.
Elderberries have spreading, fibrous roots. Try to keep the rootball intact. Once you’ve undercut it, gently lever the plant out of the hole. Slide the tarp or burlap under the rootball to make moving it easier.
Step 3: Move and Place the Plant
Carry or drag the plant on the tarp to its new location. Place it in the center of the prepared hole. The top of the rootball should be level with or just slightly above the surrounding soil grade. Planting too deep can cause stem rot.
Step 4: Backfill and Water
Backfill the hole with the soil you removed, mixed with a bit of compost. As you add soil, gently tamp it down to remove large air pockets. When the hole is half full, water it thoroughly to help settle the soil. Then finish backfilling.
Create a shallow basin of soil around the plant to hold water. Give it another deep, slow watering to saturate the entire root zone.
Step 5: Mulch and Support
Apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch around the base of the plant, keeping it a few inches away from the main stems. Mulch conserves moisture, suppresses weeds, and regulates soil temperature. If the plant is tall or in a windy area, you may want to stake it temporarily.
Caring for Your Transplanted Elderberry
The first year after transplanting is critical. Your primary job is to ensure the plant does not dry out.
- Watering: Water deeply at least once a week, more often during hot, dry spells. The soil should be consistently moist but not soggy.
- No Fertilizer: Avoid fertilizing in the first year. The compost in the planting hole is enough. Fertilizer can burn new roots and encourage leaf growth at the expense of root recovery.
- Patience: The shrub may not put on much top growth in the first season. It’s busy rebuilding its root system underground. You should see normal, vigorous growth by the second year.
Common Problems and Solutions
Even with care, sometimes issues arise. Here’s what to watch for.
Transplant Shock
Signs include wilting leaves, leaf drop, or slow growth. The best remedy is consistent watering and patience. Ensure the soil is moist and protect the plant from extreme weather if possible.
Poor Growth or Yellowing Leaves
This can indicate a few problems. It might be a watering issue—either too much or too little. Check soil moisture. Yellowing can also be a sign of nutrient deficiency, but adress this only after the first year with a balanced, gentle fertilizer.
Propagating Elderberries During Transplant
Transplanting is a perfect opportunity to create new plants. Elderberries propagate easily from cuttings.
When you prune the shrub before digging, save some of the healthy, pencil-thick branches. Cut them into 6-8 inch sections, each with several buds. You can plant these cuttings directly in a nursery bed or in pots, with about two-thirds of their length buried. Keep them moist, and they will often root by the next season.
FAQ About Transplanting Elderberries
Can you transplant a large, mature elderberry?
Yes, but it’s more labor-intensive. The rootball will be very heavy. Prune it back even more severely and be prepared for a longer recovery period. It may take two years for a very mature shrub to fully bounce back.
How deep do elderberry roots go?
They are relatively shallow and spreading, mostly in the top 12-18 inches of soil. This is why they benefit from mulch and consistent moisture during dry periods.
Is it better to transplant in spring or fall?
Both can work well. Fall planting allows for root growth before winter, while spring planting gives it the whole growing season. Choose the time that best fits your climate and schedule.
Why did my transplanted elderberry not leaf out?
If it’s spring and other plants are growing, check for life by scratching a small piece of bark. If it’s green underneath, be patient. If it’s brown and brittle, the plant may not have survived. Severe transplant shock or letting the roots dry out during the process are common causes.
Can I transplant an elderberry in the summer if I have to?
It’s not recommended, but if you must, take extreme care. Prune it back drastically, dig the largest rootball possible, and water it multiple times daily. Provide temporary shade for the first few weeks. Expect significant stress and potential loss.
Transplanting an elderberry is a very achievable garden task. By following this simple step-by-step guide, you give your plant the best chance to establish quickly and continue providing beautiful flowers and bountiful berries for years to come. Remember, the keys are doing it during dormancy, keeping the roots moist, and providing diligent aftercare while it settles in.