If your clematis has outgrown its spot or you simply need to move it, knowing how to transplant clematis is the key to success. This step-by-step guide for moving your vine will give you the confidence to do it right, ensuring your plant thrives in its new home.
Transplanting can feel daunting, but clematis are tougher than they look. With the right timing and a gentle hand, you can minimize shock and help your plant settle in quickly. The goal is to keep the roots happy and get them back into the ground fast.
Let’s walk through the entire process, from picking the perfect moment to aftercare that ensures a strong comeback.
How to Transplant Clematis
This main guide covers the core process. Success starts long before you actually dig up the plant. Careful planning makes all the difference between a smooth move and a set back for your vine.
The Best Time to Move Your Clematis
Timing is the most critical factor. The ideal window is when the plant is dormant. This means it’s not actively growing new leaves or flowers.
For most climates, late fall or early spring are perfect. In late fall, the soil is still warm but the plant is shutting down for winter. In early spring, the ground is workable and new growth hasn’t quite started.
Avoid transplanting in the summer heat. The combination of root disturbance and high temperatures can be fatal. If you must move it in summer, be prepared for intensive aftercare and some die-back.
Gathering Your Tools and Supplies
Being prepared speeds everything up. Here’s what you’ll need:
- A sharp spade
- A garden fork
- Pruning shears (clean and sharp)
- A large piece of burlap or a tarp
- A wheelbarrow or cart
- Compost or well-rotted manure
- Mulch (like bark chips or compost)
- A new planting hole, pre-dug and ready
Step 1: Prepare the New Planting Hole
Always dig the new hole first. This allows you to transfer the clematis immediately, preventing its roots from drying out. The new hole should be at least twice as wide and a bit deeper than the rootball you expect to dig up.
Mix the excavated soil with plenty of compost. This improves drainage and provides nutrients. Have your mulch and a full watering can nearby before you start on the plant itself.
Step 2: Prune the Clematis Vine
This step reduces stress on the plant. By cutting back the top growth, the roots have less foliage to support while they recover. How you prune depends on your clematis type.
- Group 1 (Spring bloomers): Prune lightly, just to tidy and make handling easier. Avoid heavy cutting as they bloom on old wood.
- Group 2 (Repeat bloomers): You can prune these back by about one-third to one-half. This is a safe bet if your unsure of the group.
- Group 3 (Late summer bloomers): These can be cut back hard to about 12-18 inches from the ground. They bloom on new growth, so this won’t affect flowering.
Step 3: Dig Up the Rootball Carefully
Start by digging a trench in a circle around the plant, about 12-18 inches from the main stems. Your aiming to preserve as much of the root system as possible.
Use your spade to slice down deep, then gently use the garden fork to loosen the soil underneath. Clematis have deep, fibrous roots, so take your time. Try to keep the rootball intact.
Once it’s loose, carefully slide the burlap or tarp under the rootball. This lets you lift and carry the plant without it falling apart. Place it in the wheelbarrow for transport to the new hole.
Step 4: Planting in the New Location
Set the rootball into the new hole. The crown of the plant (where the stems meet the roots) should be about 3-4 inches below the soil surface. This deep planting encourages strong shoots and protects the crown.
Backfill with your soil-compost mix, firming it gently as you go to remove air pockets. Create a shallow basin around the stem to hold water. Then, water it thoroughly until the soil is completely saturated.
Step 5: Aftercare and Support
Your job isn’t done once it’s in the ground. Consistent aftercare is what seals the deal.
- Watering: Keep the soil consistently moist (but not soggy) for the entire first growing season. This is non-negotiable for recovery.
- Mulching: Apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch around the base. This keeps roots cool and retains moisture. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the stems.
- Support: Reattach the stems to its trellis or support immediately. If it’s a Group 3 you cut back, place the support so new growth can find it easily.
- Feeding: Hold off on fertilizer for the first year. The compost in the planting hole is enough. You can start a regular feeding schedule the following spring.
What to Expect After Transplanting
Don’t panic if growth seems slow or some stems wilt initially. The plant is focusing energy underground. It may not flower as profusely in the first season after the move. This is normal. With good care, it should return to full vigor by the second year.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Even with perfect care, issues can pop up. Here’s how to handle them:
- Wilting Leaves: This is often transplant shock. Ensure the soil is moist, provide some temporary afternoon shade if it’s sunny, and mist the foliage.
- Slow Growth: Be patient. As long as the stems are green, the plant is alive and working on its roots.
- No Flowers: This is common in the first year. The plant is settling in. Ensure it gets adequate sunlight (most clematis need at least 6 hours).
FAQ: Transplanting Clematis
Can I transplant a large, established clematis?
Yes, but it’s more challenging. You may not be able to get the entire root system. Prune it back hard (even Group 1 and 2) to compensate for root loss and expect a longer recovery period.
How often can I move a clematis?
Try to avoid moving them more than once. Each transplant causes stress. Choose the new location carefully so it can stay there permanantly.
Is it better to transplant clematis in fall or spring?
Both are good. In colder zones, early fall is ideal so roots establish before a hard freeze. In wet climates, spring might be better to avoid waterlogged soil.
Can I divide a clematis when transplanting?
It’s generally not recommended. Clematis have a single, central crown that doesn’t divide well like a perennial. It’s safer to move the entire plant intact.
My transplanted clematis looks dead. Is it?
Don’t give up to quickly. Clematis can die back to the ground and resprout from the crown, especially if it was planted deep. Wait until mid-summer before declaring it lost.
Remember, the core principles of how to transplant clematis are gentle handling, speed, and thorough aftercare. Paying attention to these details gives your beloved vine the best possible chance to flourish in its new spot for many seasons to come.