If your boxwoods have outgrown their space or you’re redesigning your garden, knowing how to transplant boxwoods is an essential skill. Moving these classic shrubs can seem daunting, but with the right timing and technique, you can ensure they thrive in their new location. This simple step-by-step guide will walk you through the entire process, from preparation to aftercare, so you can move your boxwoods with confidence.
How To Transplant Boxwoods
Transplanting is more than just digging and moving. It’s about minimizing shock to the plant’s root system. Boxwoods have dense, fibrous roots close to the surface, which actually works in our favor. The key is to prepare the new hole first, work quickly, and provide excellent follow-up care. Let’s get your tools ready.
Essential Tools and Supplies You’ll Need
Gathering everything beforehand makes the job smoother. You won’t want to search for a tool with a boxwood half out of the ground.
- A sharp spade for cutting roots cleanly.
- A garden fork for loosening the root ball.
- Heavy-duty burlap or a tarp for moving the shrub.
- Strong twine or rope to secure the branches.
- A wheelbarrow or cart (for larger shrubs).
- Sharp pruning shears.
- A hose and watering can.
- Organic compost or peat moss.
- Mulch for after planting.
Choosing the Perfect Time to Move
Timing is the most critical factor for success. The best time to transplant boxwoods is during their dormant season, when the plant isn’t actively pushing new growth. This gives the roots time to establish before summer heat or winter cold arrives.
For most climates, late fall is ideal. The soil is still warm, which encourages root growth, but the air is cool, reducing stress on the foliage. Early spring, just as the ground thaws but before new growth starts, is the second-best option. Avoid transplanting in the heat of summer or the frozen depths of winter.
Step-by-Step Transplanting Instructions
Follow these steps carefully to give your boxwood the best chance. Plan to do this on a cool, overcast day to further reduce stress on the plant.
Step 1: Prepare the New Planting Hole
Always dig the new hole before you dig up the shrub. This limits the time the roots are exposed. The hole should be about twice as wide as the estimated root ball, but only as deep as the root ball is tall. Planting too deep is a common mistake that can lead to root rot.
Mix the excavated soil with about 25% compost or peat moss to improve drainage and nutrients. Have this amended soil and your mulch pile ready nearby.
Step 2: Prune and Prepare the Boxwood
Lightly prune the shrub to reduce the leaf mass the roots must support. Focus on removing any dead or thin branches and trimming back the overall foliage by about 10-15%. Next, tie up the branches loosely with twine. This protects the foliage and makes the plant much easier to handle.
Now, estimate the root ball size. For a medium boxwood, plan for a root ball diameter of about 10-12 inches for every foot of the shrub’s height.
Step 3: Dig Up the Root Ball
Using your spade, dig a trench around the boxwood just outside your estimated root ball size. Cut down deep, aiming for at least 10-14 inches for a established shrub. Once the trench is dug, use your spade to angle under the root ball, severing any deep taproots.
Work your garden fork under the rootball and gently rock the shrub to loosen it from the native soil. Try to keep the root ball as intact as possible—it’s holding most of the plants tiny feeder roots.
Step 4: Move the Shrub to Its New Home
Carefully slide the burlap or tarp under the root ball. You can then lift or drag the shrub onto the wheelbarrow or directly to the new hole. This is where having a helper is invaluable, especially for larger plants. Avoid lifting the shrub by its trunk or stems, which can damage it.
Step 5: Planting in the New Location
Gently lower the boxwood into the hole. Ensure the top of the root ball is level with or slightly above the surrounding soil grade. Backfill the hole with your amended soil, firming it gently around the root ball to eliminate large air pockets.
Create a shallow soil berm (a small ring) around the edge of the planting hole. This “watering well” will direct moisture down to the roots where its needed most.
Step 6: Water and Mulch Thoroughly
Water deeply immediately after planting. Soak the entire area until the water pools and drains slowly. This settles the soil. Apply 2-3 inches of organic mulch, like pine bark or shredded leaves, around the base of the plant.
Keep the mulch a few inches away from the main stem to prevent moisture buildup and potential disease. Your initial work is now done, but the aftercare is what truly ensures success.
Critical Aftercare for Transplanted Boxwoods
The first year after moving is crucial. Your boxwood’s root system is limited and needs consistent support.
- Watering: This is non-negotiable. Water deeply 2-3 times per week for the first month, unless rainfall is abundant. For the rest of the first growing season, provide about 1 inch of water per week. The goal is consistently moist, not soggy, soil.
- Mulch Refresh: Maintain that 2-3 inch mulch layer to conserve moisture and regulate soil temperature.
- Hold the Fertilizer: Do not fertilize at planting time or for the first year. Fertilizer can burn new roots and encourage top growth the strained roots can’t support.
- Monitor for Stress: Some leaf yellowing or drop is normal. However, significant browning or dieback may indicate under-watering or planting shock.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Even with perfect care, issues can arise. Here’s how to address them.
Yellowing Leaves (Chlorosis): Often a sign of water stress or poor drainage. Check your watering schedule and ensure the planting site isn’t staying waterlogged. In some cases, it can indicate soil pH issues; boxwoods prefer slightly acidic to neutral soil.
Leaf Scorch or Browning: This is common after transplanting, especially if done in spring or if the roots can’t uptake enough water. Increase watering frequency and provide temporary afternoon shade with a burlap screen if the plant is in full sun.
Lack of New Growth: Be patient. The plant is likely putting all its energy into root establishment. As long as the stems are green and pliable when scratched, the boxwood is probably fine. You should see new growth by the second season.
FAQ About Transplanting Boxwoods
How big of a boxwood can I transplant?
You can move surprisingly large boxwoods with care. A healthy shrub up to 3-4 feet tall is manageable for a determined gardener. For anything larger, consider hiring professionals with the right equipment.
Can I transplant a boxwood in the summer?
It’s not recommended. Summer heat places immense stress on a plant with a reduced root system. If you must, provide ample shade and water, and be prepared for significant setback or loss.
How long does it take for a transplanted boxwood to establish?
It typically takes one full growing season (spring through fall) for the root system to regenerate. The shrub may look static above ground during this time, but it’s busy growing roots below.
Should I use a root stimulator when transplanting?
A mild, vitamin B1-based transplant solution can help reduce shock, but it’s not a substitute for proper technique and consistent watering. Avoid strong chemical “root boosters.”
Can I cut the roots when transplanting?
You will inevitably cut roots when digging. The goal is to make clean cuts with a sharp tool, which heal better than ragged tears. Avoid excessive root pruning beyond what’s necessary to lift the plant.
Transplanting boxwoods successfully is a rewarding garden task. By following this guide—prioritizing timing, careful handling, and dedicated aftercare—you can relocate these beautiful shrubs and enjoy them in your landscape for many more years to come. Remember, the extra effort you put in during the first year will pay off with a healthy, established plant.