If your bleeding heart plant has outgrown its space or you simply want to move it to a better spot, knowing how to transplant bleeding hearts is the key to success. This step-by-step guide for moving these graceful perennials will ensure they thrive in their new location with minimal shock.
Bleeding hearts (Dicentra spectabilis) are beloved for their arching stems of heart-shaped flowers. They are tougher than they look, but they do appreciate careful handling during a move. The best times to transplant are in early spring as they emerge or in early fall as they go dormant.
How to Transplant Bleeding Hearts
This main process covers the essential stages from planning to aftercare. Following these steps in order gives your plant the best chance to bounce back quickly and bloom beautifully.
When is the Best Time to Transplant?
Timing is everything for a smooth transition. Bleeding hearts are sensitive to heat and active growth.
- Early Spring: This is the ideal window. Transplant just as the pink shoots nudge through the soil, before the plant invests energy in stems and leaves.
- Early Fall: Once the foliage has yellowed and died back, you can safely move the dormant plant. This allows it to establish roots in cool soil.
- Avoid Summer: Never transplant in the heat of summer. The plant is in full growth and will wilt severely, often fatally.
Gathering Your Tools and Supplies
Having everything ready before you start makes the job smoother. You’ll need:
- A sharp spade or garden fork
- A garden trowel
- Pruning shears (clean and sharp)
- A bucket or tarp for the rootball
- Well-rotted compost or leaf mold
- Watering can or hose
- Mulch (like shredded bark or compost)
Step 1: Prepare the New Planting Hole
Always dig the new hole first! This minimizes the time the plant’s roots are exposed. The new hole should be about twice as wide as the expected rootball and just as deep. Mix some compost into the soil you removed to improve nutrients and drainage.
Step 2: Dig Up the Bleeding Heart Plant
Start by watering the plant thoroughly the day before to soften the soil and reduce stress. When ready, use your spade to dig a wide circle around the plant’s base, staying about 10-12 inches away from the stems to avoid damaging the brittle roots. Gently lift the entire rootball onto your tarp or into the bucket.
Step 3: Inspect and Divide (If Desired)
This is the perfect time to divide a large, mature bleeding heart to create new plants. Shake or rinse off excess soil to see the root structure. Look for natural divisions or “eyes” (buds) on the crown. Using a clean, sharp knife or spade, cut the crown into sections, making sure each has at least 2-3 eyes and plenty of roots. Its a good idea to dust cut surfaces with fungicide.
Step 4: Planting in the New Location
Place the rootball (or division) in the center of the prepared hole. The top of the crown should sit level with or just slightly below the surrounding soil surface. Backfill with your enriched soil, gently firming it around the roots to eliminate large air pockets. Avoid stomping, which can compact the soil.
Step 5: Water and Mulch Thoroughly
As soon as planting is complete, give the area a slow, deep watering to settle the soil. Then, apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch around the plant, keeping it a few inches away from the stems. Mulch conserves moisture, suppresses weeds, and insulates the roots from temperature swings.
Step 6: Aftercare for Transplanted Bleeding Hearts
Consistent care in the weeks after moving is crucial. Water regularly to keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy. If you transplanted in spring and a late frost threatens, cover the new shoots with a bucket or frost cloth. Do not fertilize at this time; let the plant focus on root establishment.
What to Expect After Transplanting
Some drooping or wilting is normal, especially if moved in spring. The plant may also lose some flowers in its first season as it recovers. With proper care, it should perk up within a week or two. Fall-transplanted plants won’t show growth until the following spring, but they’ll be busy growing roots underground.
Troubleshooting Common Transplant Issues
Even with care, sometimes problems arise. Here’s how to handle them.
Plant is Wilting Severely
This is usually transplant shock. Ensure the soil is moist, provide temporary afternoon shade with a cloth, and mist the foliage lightly. Avoid the temptation to overwater, which can lead to rot.
Yellowing Leaves
Slight yellowing of older leaves can be normal stress. Widespread yellowing often indicates overwatering or poor drainage. Check that the soil isn’t waterlogged. If you planted to deep, you may need to gently raise the crown.
No New Growth (After Spring Transplant)
Be patient. It can take a few weeks. Ensure the plant is getting enough water and that the roots were not damaged. If no growth appears after a month, the roots may have dried out during the process or succumbed to rot.
FAQ: Your Bleeding Heart Transplant Questions Answered
How deep should I plant a bleeding heart?
Plant it so the crown (where the stems meet the roots) is at or just below the soil surface. Planting too deep is a common cause of failure.
Can I move a bleeding heart in the summer?
It is highly not recommended. Summer heat causes extreme stress, and the plant will likely die. Wait for fall dormancy.
Do bleeding hearts have deep roots?
Their roots are fleshy and brittle, spreading more horizontally than deeply. This is why wide digging is important.
How often should I water after transplanting?
Water deeply whenever the top inch of soil feels dry for the first full growing season. Established plants are more drought-tolerant.
Should I cut it back when transplanting?
For spring moves, no. For fall moves, the foliage has already died back naturally. You can trim any remaining dead stems to ground level.
Will it bloom the first year after transplant?
It might, but blooming may be reduced as the plant focuses energy on roots. Expect a full, normal display by the second year.
Transplanting bleeding hearts is a straightforward task when you follow the right steps. By choosing the correct season, handling the roots with care, and providing attentive aftercare, you can enjoy these charming flowers in a new part of your garden for many seasons to come. Remember, a little patience goes a long way as your plant settles into its new home.