If your aloe vera plant is getting crowded, you might be wondering how to transplant aloe pups. This simple step-by-step guide will show you exactly how to seperate and pot these baby plants, giving them a great new start and expanding your collection for free.
Transplanting, or “dividing,” is a key part of aloe care. It helps the mother plant stay healthy and gives the pups room to grow into full-sized plants. The process is straightforward and rewarding, perfect for beginner gardeners. With a few tools and some patience, you’ll have new aloe plants in no time.
How to Transplant Aloe Pups
Before you start, it’s important to know when your pups are ready. A good rule of thumb is to wait until the pup is about one-fifth the size of the mother plant or has several sets of its own leaves. This usually means it has developed its own root system.
Pups that are too small often struggle to survive on their own. If the pup is very small and has no visible roots, it’s better to leave it attached for a few more weeks or months. You can gently brush away some soil to check its size and root development.
What You’ll Need
Gathering your supplies before you start makes the job smoother. You likely have most of these items at home already.
- A sharp, clean knife or pair of garden snips
- Fresh potting mix designed for cacti and succulents
- A new pot(s) with drainage holes
- A trowel or small shovel
- Optional: Gardening gloves and a newspaper for workspace cleanup
Step 1: Prepare the Mother Plant
Begin by gently removing the entire aloe plant, including the pups, from its current pot. Tip the pot on its side and carefully squeeze or tap it to loosen the root ball. Ease the plant out, supporting the base of the main plant.
Try to keep the rootball as intact as possible. If the plant is stubborn, you can run a knife around the inside edge of the pot to help release it. Avoid pulling on the leaves, as they can break easily.
Step 2: Locate and Separate the Pups
Once the plant is out, gently brush away soil from the base to reveal where the pups are connected to the mother. Look for the point where the pup’s stem meets the main plant. You should see a small, pale connecting stem or root.
If the pup is loosely attached, you might be able to twist it off with your hands. For most pups, you’ll need to use your clean knife or snips. Make a clean cut as close to the mother plant as possible, ensuring the pup keeps any roots it has already grown.
Sometimes a pup may come away with no roots at all. Don’t worry—aloes are resilient and can often grow roots from the stem. These are called “unrooted pups” and require a slightly different approach, which we’ll cover later.
Step 3: Let the Wounds Callus Over
This is a critical step that many beginners skip. After cutting, both the pup and the mother plant have open wounds. If you plant them immediately, these wet cuts are suseptible to rot and fungal infection.
Place the separated pups in a warm, dry spot out of direct sunlight. Let them sit for 24 to 48 hours. You’ll see the cut end dry out and form a thin, hardened layer. This is the callus, and it acts as a protective barrier. The mother plant’s wound can callus while it’s still out of the pot, or you can replant it right away and keep its soil dry for a week.
Step 4: Pot Your New Aloe Pups
Now it’s time to plant. Choose a pot that is just slightly larger than the pup’s root system. A pot that’s too big holds excess moisture, which can cause root rot. Ensure the pot has a drainage hole—this is non-negotiable for aloe health.
- Fill the bottom of the pot with a layer of your cactus/succulent potting mix.
- Place the pup in the pot, positioning it so the base of the leaves is just above the soil line.
- Hold the pup steady and gently add more soil around it, filling in the gaps.
- Lightly press the soil down to stabilize the plant, but don’t compact it too tightly.
If you have an unrooted pup, the process is similar. Plant it so the callused stem is buried about a half-inch to an inch deep in the soil. The soil will support it while it develops roots.
Step 5: The Initial Watering and Care
Do not water your newly potted pup right away! This is a common mistake. The plant needs time to adjust and, if it has roots, to recover from any minor damage. For a rooted pup, wait about one week before giving it a light watering.
For an unrooted pup, wait at least a week, maybe two, before a very light watering. The goal is to encourage the pup to send out roots in search of moisture. Keep the soil barely damp, not wet. Place all new pups in bright, indirect light for the first few weeks. Avoid direct, harsh sun which can stress them.
Choosing the Right Soil and Pot
Aloe plants need soil that drains exceptionally well. Standard potting soil holds too much water. Always use a commercial “cacti and succulent mix,” or make your own by mixing two parts potting soil with one part perlite and one part coarse sand.
Terracotta pots are an excellent choice because they are porous, allowing soil to dry out more evenly. Plastic or glazed ceramic pots are fine too, just be extra careful not to overwater. The size of the pot is crucial—it should be cozy, not cavernous.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Even with a good guide, it’s easy to make a few errors. Here’s what to watch out for.
- Overwatering too soon: This is the fastest way to lose a new pup. Always err on the side of underwatering.
- Using a pot that’s too large: A small plant in a big pot cannot use all the water in the soil, leading to soggy roots.
- Skipping the callusing step: Planting a fresh cut directly into damp soil invites rot.
- Planting too deep: Burying the green, fleshy leaves can cause them to decay. Keep the base of the leaves above soil.
Aftercare for Your Transplanted Aloe
After the first careful watering, treat your aloe pup like a mature plant. Water deeply but infrequently, only when the soil is completely dry several inches down. In most homes, this means watering every 2-3 weeks.
Provide plenty of bright, indirect sunlight. A south or west-facing window is ideal. Once the pup is established and showing new growth (usually after a few weeks), you can move it to a spot with some direct sun. Aloes appreciate a regular feeding schedule during the growing season (spring and summer). Use a balanced, diluted fertilizer once a month.
FAQ: Your Aloe Pup Questions Answered
When is the best time of year to transplant aloe pups?
The ideal time is during the warm, active growing season—late spring through summer. The plants are more resilient and root faster in warm conditions.
How often do aloe plants produce pups?
A healthy, mature aloe vera (usually 2-3 years old) will produce pups regularly, often several times a year. Crowded conditions in a pot can sometimes stimulate more pup production.
Can I plant multiple pups together in one pot?
Yes, you can create a fuller arrangement by planting several pups in a wider pot. Just ensure each has a little space and that the pot has excellent drainage. They may need dividing again sooner.
Why is my newly potted aloe pup turning brown or mushy?
This is almost always a sign of overwatering or watering too soon. The mushy tissue is rot. Stop watering immediately, and if the damage is at the base, you may need to unpot the pup, cut away the rot, and restart the callusing process.
How long before my aloe pup starts growing?
If the pup had roots, you might see new growth within a few weeks. An unrooted pup can take a month or more to establish roots and begin visibly growing. Patience is key—they grow slowly but surely.
Transplanting aloe pups is a simple and satisfying way to multiply your plants. By following these steps—waiting for the right size, making clean cuts, allowing for callusing, and watering with caution—you’ll ensure a high success rate. Soon, you’ll have plenty of healthy aloe plants to keep around the house or share with friends and family.