Moving a shrub in your yard can feel like a big task, but with the right know-how, it’s very doable. This step-by-step guide for how to transplant a shrub will walk you through the process from start to finish, ensuring your plant thrives in its new location. Whether you’re redesigning a garden bed or saving a shrub from a construction area, careful planning makes all the difference.
How To Transplant A Shrub
Transplanting is more than just digging and moving. It’s about minimizing shock to the plant’s roots. The best time to move most shrubs is during their dormant season. For deciduous plants, that’s late fall after leaf drop or early spring before buds swell. For evergreens, early fall or late spring are ideal, when the soil is warm but the air is cool.
Gathering Your Tools and Supplies
Before you make a single cut, get everything you need. Having tools ready saves time and reduces stress for the shrub. You don’t want the roots drying out while you search for a tool.
- Sharp spade and/or shovel
- Garden fork
- Burlap or an old tarp for moving
- Pruning shears (loppers for thicker branches)
- Measuring tape
- Hose and water source
- Organic compost or peat moss
- Mulch (like wood chips or bark)
Step 1: Prepare the New Planting Hole
Always dig the new hole first. This allows you to move the shrub quickly from its old spot to its new one. The new hole should be two to three times wider than the estimated root ball. It should only be as deep as the root ball’s height. Planting too deep is a common mistake that can suffocate roots.
Mix the excavated soil with about 25% compost. This improves drainage and provides nutrients. Set this amended soil aside, you’ll use it for backfilling. Have a hose nearby to water the hole before and after planting.
Step 2: Prune and Water the Shrub
A day or two before the move, give the shrub a deep watering. This hydrates the roots and helps the soil hold together. You can also do some light pruning at this stage. Remove any dead, damaged, or crossing branches. This reduces the top growth the roots need to support after the move.
Avoid heavy pruning unless the shrub is very overgrown. The leaves are crucial for the plant’s recovery as they produce food. Focus on cleaning up the plant’s structure rather than reducing its size drastically.
Step 3: Dig Up the Root Ball
This is the most critical part. Your goal is to preserve as many fine roots as possible. Start by using your spade to mark a circle in the soil around the shrub. For small to medium shrubs, the circle should be about 12-18 inches from the main stem. For larger shrubs, you may need to go out 2 feet or more.
- Dig a trench along your marked circle, cutting through any surface roots.
- Work your way around, digging down and under the root ball. Use the garden fork to loosen soil and sever deeper roots.
- Angle your cuts inward as you go deeper to create a tapered root ball.
Once you’ve dug deep enough (usually 12-18 inches), carefully slide the burlap or tarp under the rootball. Gently rock the shrub to free it, then lift it out using the burlap as a sling. Don’t lift by the trunk, as this can damage the roots.
Step 4: Transport and Place the Shrub
Move the shrub to its new hole immediately. Drag it on the burlap or use a wheelbarrow for heavier plants. Keep the root ball intact and moist. If you must delay planting, keep the root ball shaded and wrapped.
Place the shrub in the center of the new hole. The top of the root ball should be level with or slightly above the surrounding soil grade. It’s better to plant a little high than too low. Check from a few angles to make sure the shrub is standing straight.
Step 5: Backfill and Water Deeply
Now, fill in the space around the root ball with your amended soil. Gently tamp the soil down with your foot as you go to remove large air pockets. Don’t compact it to hard, as roots need air and space to grow.
When the hole is half full, water thoroughly. This settles the soil around the roots. Then, finish backfilling and create a shallow “watering basin” or donut of soil around the outer edge. Water deeply again until the soil is saturated. This initial deep watering is crucial for establishment.
Addressing Common Transplanting Challenges
Sometimes, you’ll encounter issues like very clay-heavy soil or an extremly large shrub. For clay soil, amend the backfill with extra compost to improve drainage. For a large shrub, you might need to “root prune” months in advance by digging a partial trench to encourage new feeder roots closer to the trunk.
If the root ball starts to fall apart during the move, don’t panic. Just get the plant into its new hole as fast as possible, spread the roots gently, and backfill. It may take longer to recover, but many shrubs are resilient.
Step 6: Mulch and Aftercare
Apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch around the base of the shrub. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the main stem to prevent rot. Mulch conserves moisture, regulates soil temperature, and suppresses weeds.
Aftercare is simple but vital. Water the shrub regularly for the first full growing season. The soil should be kept consistently moist but not soggy. A deep watering once or twice a week is usually better than frequent light sprinklings. Avoid fertilizing for the first year, as fertilizer can burn new roots.
Monitor the shrub for signs of stress, like wilting or leaf scorch. Some leaf drop is normal, especially for deciduous shrubs. Provide temporary shade for sensitive plants if you’re transplanting in warmer weather.
When to Call a Professional
While this guide covers most situations, some jobs are best left to experts. If the shrub is very large, valuable, or located near power lines or structures, hiring a professional arborist is a smart investment. They have the equipment and expertise to move big plants safely.
FAQ: Transplanting Shrubs
Can I move a shrub in the summer?
It’s not ideal, but if you must, choose a cloudy, cool period. Be prepared to water very frequently and provide shade. The risk of shock is much higher.
How big of a root ball do I need?
A general rule is 10-12 inches of root ball diameter for every inch of the trunk’s diameter. For a multi-stemmed shrub, measure the widest stem.
Why did my shrub die after transplanting?
Common causes include planting too deep, under or over-watering, damage to to many roots during digging, or moving at the wrong time of year. Proper planting technique is key.
Should I use a root stimulator?
You can, but it’s not strictly necessary. The most important factors are a good planting hole, amended soil, and consistent watering. A mild, organic starter solution can be helpful but isn’t a magic cure.
How long until the shrub is established?
It typically takes one full growing season per inch of trunk diameter. So, a shrub with a 2-inch thick stem may need two years of attentive watering before it’s fully settled.
With patience and these steps, your transplanted shrub will have a excellent chance of settling into its new home and growing well for years to come. Remember, the extra effort you put in during the transplant process pays off with a healthy, established plant.