How To Transplant A Fig Tree

If you need to move a fig tree, you’ve come to the right place. This step-by-step guide for how to transplant a fig tree will walk you through the entire process, ensuring your tree thrives in its new location. Transplanting can seem daunting, but with the right timing and technique, you can successfully relocate even a mature fig tree.

Figs are resilient plants, but they do have specific needs. A successful move depends on careful planning, gentle handling of the roots, and proper aftercare. Whether your tree is outgrowing its space or you’re simply redesigning your garden, this guide provides the clear instructions you need.

This main section covers the core process. We’ll break it down into manageable stages, from initial planning to long-term care. Following these steps in order is the key to minimizing shock and giving your tree the best start.

When is the Best Time to Transplant a Fig Tree?

Timing is the most critical factor for success. The ideal window is during the tree’s dormant season.

Late Winter to Early Spring: This is the absolute best time. The tree is dormant, having lost its leaves, but the ground is workable and not frozen. This allows the roots to establish before the heat of summer and the demands of new growth.
Late Fall: After leaf drop but before a hard freeze is a secondary option. This gives the roots some time to settle in cool, moist soil.

Avoid transplanting in summer. The heat and active growth put immense stress on the tree, greatly reducing its chances of survival. Spring is generally more reliable than fall in colder climates.

What You’ll Need: Tools and Materials

Gathering everything beforehand makes the job smoother. Here’s your checklist:

A sharp, clean spade
A garden fork
Pruning shears (loppers for thicker branches)
Burlap or a heavy-duty tarp
A wheelbarrow or cart (for larger trees)
Quality garden soil and compost
Mulch (wood chips or straw)
A hose and water source
Stakes and soft tree ties (for larger trees)

Step-by-Step Transplanting Process

Step 1: Prepare the New Planting Hole

Always dig the new hole before you dig up the tree. This minimizes the time the roots are exposed.

The new hole should be two to three times wider than the expected root ball.
It should be only as deep as the root ball’s height. Planting too deep can cause trunk rot.
Mix the excavated soil with about 25% compost to improve drainage and nutrients.

Step 2: Prune the Fig Tree

Pruning helps balance the top growth with the reduced root system after the move.

Remove any dead, damaged, or diseased branches first.
Then, prune back the overall canopy by about one-third. This reduces the demand on the roots for water.
Make clean cuts just above outward-facing buds.

Step 3: Dig Up the Fig Tree

This step requires patience to preserve as many roots as possible.

Start by digging a trench in a circle around the tree, about 12-18 inches from the trunk for younger trees, further for mature ones.
Dig down and under the root ball, using the garden fork to loosen soil and sever longer roots cleanly with the spade.
Once the root ball is freed, carefully slide the burlap or tarp underneath it. Gently tilt the tree to wrap the material around the roots, securing it with twine. This keeps the root ball intact.

Step 4: Move and Place the Tree

Move the tree to its new hole using the tarp or a wheelbarrow. Avoid lifting by the trunk.

Gently lower the tree into the center of the hole. The top of the root ball should be level with or slightly above the surrounding ground.
Remove any burlap or containers. If using a biodegradable burlap, you can leave it on but be sure to pull it back from the trunk.
Check that the tree is standing straight before backfilling.

Step 5: Backfill and Water Deeply

Backfill the hole with your soil-compost mix, gently firming it as you go to eliminate large air pockets.

Create a shallow berm or basin of soil around the edge of the planting hole. This will help hold water.
Water the tree slowly and thoroughly immediately after planting. This settles the soil and ensures good root-to-soil contact. Let the water soak in, then water again.

Step 6: Mulch and Stake (If Needed)

Apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch around the tree, starting a few inches away from the trunk. Mulch conserves moisture, suppresses weeds, and regulates soil temperature.

For larger trees or windy sites, drive two or three stakes into the ground outside the root zone. Attach the trunk to the stakes with soft, flexible ties, allowing for a little movement.

Aftercare: Ensuring Your Transplanted Fig Thrives

The first year after transplanting is crucial. Your tree will need consistent attention.

Watering: This is the most important task. Water deeply 2-3 times per week for the first month, then weekly for the rest of the growing season unless rainfall is ample. The goal is to keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy.
Hold Off on Fertilizer: Do not fertilize in the first year. The compost in the planting hole and the tree’s stored energy are enough. Fertilizer can burn tender new roots and force excessive leaf growth the roots can’t support.
Monitor for Stress: Some leaf wilting or drop is normal. But if you see severe dieback, check your watering habits. Protect the tree from strong winds and intense afternoon sun if possible in its first summer.

With proper care, your fig should resume normal growth by its second season. You may need to be patient with fruit production; it’s common for the tree to take a year or two off after such a big move.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Knowing what not to do is just as important. Steer clear of these errors:

Transplanting at the wrong time (mid-summer).
Digging too small a root ball or damaging major roots.
Planting the tree too deep in the new hole.
Overwatering or underwatering during the first critical months.
Applying fertilizer too soon after transplanting.
Using stiff wires or ropes to stake the tree, which can girdle the trunk.

FAQ: Your Transplant Questions Answered

Can I transplant a large, mature fig tree?

Yes, but success rates decrease with size and age. A tree over 5-6 feet tall will have a extensive root system and be very heavy. The process is the same, but you may need mechanial help and should be prepared for a longer recovery period. For very large trees, consider taking cuttings to propagate a new plant as a backup.

How much of the roots do I need to dig up?

As much as possible. A good rule is to dig a root ball diameter of about 10-12 inches for every inch of trunk diameter. For a 2-inch thick trunk, aim for a 20-24 inch wide root ball. The more fine, fibrous roots you preserve, the better.

My transplanted fig tree looks dead. Is it?

Don’t give up to quickly. Figs are notorious for sprouting from the roots even if the top appears dead. Continue to water it through the season. By late spring or early summer, you may see new shoots emerging from the base or lower trunk. Prune away any truly dead wood once you see where the new growth is.

When will it bear fruit again?

Be patient. The tree will prioritize root and leaf growth first. It’s common to have little to no fruit the first season after transplanting. You should see a return to normal fruiting within 1-3 years, depending on the tree’s size and how well it adapts.

Do I need to amend the soil in the new hole?

Mixing in compost is beneficial, but avoid creating a “pot” effect where the soil in the hole is so different from the native soil that roots won’t want to leave it. The amendment should just improve the immediate area to encourage outward growth. Figs are adaptable to many soil types as long as they drain well.

Transplanting a fig tree is a rewarding project that can save a beloved plant or improve your garden’s layout. By choosing the dormant season, handling the roots with care, and providing dedicated aftercare, you give your tree the strongest foundation for a healthy future. Remember, the first year is all about root establishment—focus on consistent moisture and patience, and your fig will thank you with lush growth and sweet harvests for years to come.