Moving a shrub in your yard can give your landscape a fresh look or save a plant that’s struggling in its current spot. Learning how to transplant a bush successfully is a key skill that ensures your plant thrives in its new home instead of going into shock. With the right timing and technique, you can move even mature bushes with confidence.
This guide walks you through every step, from picking the perfect day to the aftercare that seals the deal. We’ll cover how to prepare the new hole, dig up the rootball properly, and get your bush settled. Let’s get your hands dirty and give that bush a new lease on life.
How to Transplant a Bush
The core process of transplanting is straightforward, but success hinges on careful planning. Rushing this project is the most common mistake. Always plan to complete the move within a single day, minimizing the time the roots are exposed to air.
When is the Best Time to Transplant?
Timing is the most critical factor for a stress-free move. The ideal window is when the bush is dormant, meaning it’s not actively growing new leaves or flowers.
For most deciduous bushes (those that lose leaves in fall), the best times are:
* Late fall, after leaves have dropped but before the ground freezes.
* Early spring, before new buds begin to swell.
For evergreen shrubs, aim for:
* Early fall, so roots establish before winter.
* Late spring, after the last frost but before summer’s heat.
Avoid transplanting in the peak summer heat. The combination of root disturbance and high evaporation is often fatal. If you must move a bush in summer, be prepared for intensive aftercare like daily watering and providing temporary shade.
Gathering Your Tools and Supplies
Having everything ready before you start makes the job smoother. You’ll need:
* A sharp spade and/or a round-point shovel
* A pair of sharp pruning shears
* Burlap or an old tarp for moving the rootball
* A sturdy garden hose or watering can
* Organic compost or peat moss
* A measuring tape or stick
* Mulch (like wood chips or shredded bark)
Step 1: Prepare the New Planting Hole
Always dig the new hole before you dig up the bush. This reduces the roots’ time out of the ground. The new hole should be at least twice as wide as the estimated rootball, but only as deep as the rootball is tall. The goal is to encourage roots to spread sideways, not sink downward.
Here’s how to prepare it:
1. Measure the bush’s height and drip line (the circle on the ground under its outermost branches).
2. Mark the new location, ensuring it has the correct sunlight and space for the bush’s mature size.
3. Dig the hole, piling the excavated soil on your tarp. Mix this soil with about 25% compost to improve drainage and nutrients.
4. Fill the hole with water and let it drain completely. This ensures the surrounding soil is moist and welcoming.
Step 2: Prepare the Bush for Moving
A little prep work on the bush itself makes it easier to handle and reduces transplant shock.
* Water Deeply: One or two days before the move, give the bush a long, slow watering. Moist soil holds together better and is easier to dig, and a hydrated plant is more resilient.
* Prune Strategically: Use your shears to remove any dead, damaged, or overly long branches. For larger, mature bushes, you can also do a light overall pruning to reduce the top growth, which balances the root loss. Don’t over-prune, though.
Step 3: Dig Up the Rootball
This is the most physical part. Your goal is to preserve as much of the root system and its surrounding soil as possible.
1. Start by using your spade to cut a circle in the soil around the bush. For a small bush, start about 1 foot from the main stem. For a larger one, use the drip line as your guide.
2. Dig a trench along this circle, going down about 12-18 inches for most shrubs. As you dig, angle your spade slightly inward under the rootball to sever long anchoring roots.
3. Once you’ve dug around the entire plant, begin working your spade underneath the rootball. Gently rock the bush back and forth to loosen it from the soil below.
4. When the rootball is free, carefully slide the burlap or tarp under one side. Tip the bush onto the material and pull it through to the other side, wrapping the rootball securely.
Step 4: Move and Plant the Bush
Move the bush to its new hole as quickly as possible. Drag it on the tarp or use a wheelbarrow for heavy plants. Avoid lifting by the trunk, which can damage the roots.
1. Gently lower the bush, with its burlap wrapping, into the center of the new hole. The top of the rootball should be level with or slightly above the surrounding ground.
2. If you used synthetic burlap, remove it completely. If it’s natural burlap, you can leave it in the hole; it will decompose. Just be sure to pull it back from the top of the rootball and tuck it down the sides.
3. Begin backfilling with your soil-compost mix. Shovel it in around the roots, tamping it down lightly with your foot as you go to remove large air pockets. Don’t pack it to hard.
4. Once the hole is half full, water thoroughly to help settle the soil. Then finish backfilling.
Step 5: Watering and Aftercare
Your job isn’t done once the bush is in the ground. The first year is crucial for establishment.
* Create a Watering Basin: Build a low ring of soil (a berm) around the edge of the planting hole. This acts like a bowl to direct water to the roots.
* Water Deeply: Give your newly transplanted bush a very thorough soaking immediately after planting. Then, water deeply 2-3 times per week for the first month, unless rainfall is abundant. The key is to keep the rootball consistently moist but not soggy.
* Apply Mulch: Spread 2-3 inches of mulch over the entire root zone, keeping it a few inches away from the main stem. Mulch conserves moisture, regulates soil temperature, and suppresses weeds.
* Hold Off on Fertilizer: Do not fertilize at planting time. Freshly cut roots can be damaged by fertilizer salts. Wait until you see consistent new growth, usually the following season.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Even with good intentions, it’s easy to make a few errors. Here’s what to watch out for:
* Planting Too Deep: This is a top cause of failure. The bush’s root flare (where the trunk widens) should be visible above the soil line.
* Insufficient Watering: Under-watering in the first few weeks is devestating. Check soil moisture frequently.
* Choosing the Wrong Location: Don’t just move a bush to an empty spot. Match the plant’s sun/shade and soil requirements.
* Damaging the Rootball: Be gentle during the move. A broken rootball means lost roots.
FAQ: Your Transplanting Questions Answered
How big of a bush can I transplant myself?
With the right tools and a helper, you can move bushes with a rootball up to about 3 feet in diameter. Beyond that, the weight and size become very challenging, and you might consider hiring a professional with a tree spade.
Can I transplant a bush in bloom?
It’s not recommended. The plant is putting its energy into flowers, not roots. Transplanting will likely cause it to drop blooms and will add significant stress. Wait until after it flowers or until its dormant season.
How long before my transplanted bush shows new growth?
Don’t panic if it seems stagnant for a while. It can take a full growing season for the shrub to recover and focus on top growth. As long as the stems remain flexible and buds are present, it’s likely just settling in.
What if my soil is very poor?
Amending the backfill soil with compost is essential. For extreemly bad soil, you might consider creating a raised planting area or choosing a different, more suitable location or plant species.
Should I use a root stimulator?
A liquid root stimulator or mycorrhizal fungi powder can be helpful when applied at planting time. They encourage root growth and can reduce shock, but they are not a substitute for proper technique and aftercare.
Transplanting a bush requires effort, but the reward is a thriving plant in the perfect spot. By following these steps—planning for the right time, handling the rootball with care, and committing to consistent aftercare—you’ll greatly increase your chances of success. Remember, patience is a gardener’s best tool; give your bush the time it needs to recover and put down new roots in its new home.