How To Store Elephant Ears

If you’ve grown or bought a bounty of elephant ears, knowing how to store elephant ears properly is the key to enjoying them for months. These impressive tropical plants, known for their massive, heart-shaped leaves, can be preserved as bulbs (or tubers) to be replanted, ensuring you get to enjoy their dramatic foliage year after year.

This guide will walk you through every step, from digging them up at the right time to creating the perfect storage conditions. Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or this is your first time trying to save these giants, you’ll find clear instructions here.

The core process of storing elephant ears revolves around their tubers. Think of these like a potato; they are the plant’s energy reserve. Our goal is to keep these tubers dormant, healthy, and free from rot until it’s time to grow again.

When to Dig Up Your Elephant Ear Tubers

Timing is everything. Dig too early, and the tubers won’t be fully developed. Dig too late, and a frost could damage them.

The best signal is the first light frost of fall. It will cause the leaves to yellow and die back.
If you live in a frost-free climate, you can wait until the foliage naturally starts to decline in late fall.
Plan to dig them up before a hard freeze, which can penetrate the soil and harm the tubers.

Step-by-Step: Preparing Tubers for Storage

Proper preparation prevents rot and disease during storage. Don’t rush this part.

Step 1: Digging and Cleaning

Use a garden fork or spade, and start digging about a foot away from the base of the plant to avoid spearing the tuber. Gently lift the entire clump from the soil. Shake off as much loose dirt as you can. Then, use a gentle stream of water from a hose to wash off the remaining soil. This lets you inspect the tuber for any damage.

Step 2: Trimming and Cutting

With clean, sharp pruners, cut off all the foliage, leaving about an inch or two of the stem above the tuber. Do not pull or twist the stems off, as this can create wounds where rot can start. If you have a large clump with multiple tubers, you can carefully divide them at this point. Make sure each division has a piece of the main growth point (like an “eye” on a potato).

Step 3: The Crucial Curing and Drying Phase

This is the most important step for long-term freshness. The cut ends and any scars need to form a protective callus.

Place the cleaned tubers in a single layer on newspaper or a screen in a warm, dry, and shaded place. A garage, shed, or covered porch is perfect.
Let them dry for 1 to 3 days. The surface should feel dry to the touch, and the cut stems should look sealed over.
Never skip this step. Storing a damp tuber is a surefire way to lose it to mold.

Choosing Your Storage Medium and Container

Your goal is to keep the tubers dormant, not completely dried out. You need a medium that maintains slight moisture and insulates them.

Excellent Storage Mediums:

Peat Moss: A classic choice. It’s slightly acidic and retains moisture well without being wet.
Slightly Dampened Coconut Coir: A sustainable alternative to peat moss with similar properties.
Vermiculite or Perlite: These are very good at preventing moisture buildup and allowing air circulation.
Wood Shavings: Use untreated, dry shavings (like those for pet bedding).

Best Containers for Storage:

Cardboard Boxes: Breathable and easy to find. Line with a plastic bag with holes poked in it for a bit of moisture retention.
Paper Bags: Great for individual tubers or small collections.
Ventilated Plastic Totes: Drill or poke several holes in the lid and sides for air flow.
Mesh Bags: Like onion bags, they provide excellent ventilation.

The Ideal Storage Conditions

Where you put your packed tubers is just as important as how you pack them. You need to mimic their natural dormant period.

Temperature: Aim for a consistent temperature between 50°F and 60°F (10°C-15°C). This is cool enough to prevent sprouting but warm enough to prevent chilling injury. A basement, unheated garage (in a mild climate), or a cool closet often works.
Darkness: Light can trigger premature growth. Keep them in complete darkness.
Humidity: The air should be relatively dry. High humidity encourages mold. Avoid damp cellars.

Monthly Storage Check-Up Routine

Don’t just forget about them until spring! A quick monthly check can save your entire collection.

Gently open your storage container.
Feel the tubers. They should be firm, not soft or squishy. A little bit of give at the stem scar is normal, but the body must be solid.
Look for any signs of mold (fuzzy white or green patches) or excessive shriveling.
If a tuber is soft and rotting, remove it immediately to prevent it from spreading.
If a tuber is severely shriveled, you can very lightly mist the storage medium with water—never the tuber directly—and reseal.

Preparing for Spring Planting

About 6-8 weeks before your last expected spring frost, it’s time to wake them up. Bring your tubers out of storage and inspect them one final time. Discard any that didn’t make it. You can pot them up indoors in a warm, bright spot to give them a head start, or wait until the soil outside is consistently warm (above 65°F) to plant them directly in the garden.

FAQ: Storing Elephant Ears

Can I store elephant ears in the refrigerator?

Generally, no. The refrigerator is often too cold and too humid, which can lead to rot or chilling damage. The ideal temperature range (50-60°F) is higher than most fridge settings.

How long can you keep elephant ear bulbs in storage?

Properly stored, elephant ear tubers can last for the entire dormancy period of 5-8 months, from fall digging to spring planting. They are not meant for multi-year storage without growing.

My tuber feels soft. Is it rotten?

A soft, mushy texture, especially if accompanied by a foul smell, usually indicates rot. If it’s only a small area, you can try cutting it away until you reach firm, healthy tissue. Dust the cut area with sulfur or cinnamon as a fungicide, let it dry again for a day, and then repack it separately.

Do elephant ear bulbs need to be divided before storing?

You can store the entire clump, but dividing them before storage has advantages. It’s easier to pack them, check them for rot, and you’ll know exactly how many plants you have for spring. Just ensure each piece has a growth node.

Can I leave my elephant ears in the ground over winter?

This depends entirely on your climate. In USDA zones 8 and warmer (where temps stay above 20°F), you can often mulch them heavily and leave them in the ground. In colder zones, digging and storing them indoors is necessary for survival. Its always safer to dig them up if you’re unsure.

Storing elephant ears successfully is a rewarding process that protects your investment and allows these spectacular plants to thrive for seasons to come. By following these steps—timing the dig correctly, curing thoroughly, choosing the right packing material, and maintaining ideal storage conditions—you’ll master the technique. With a little care during the winter months, you’ll be ready to plant vigorous, healthy tubers that will grow into a stunning jungle-like display in your garden once again.