How To Store Bulbs Until Planting

If you’ve ended up with a bag of spring or summer bulbs at the wrong time of year, knowing how to store bulbs until planting is the key to keeping them alive. Proper storage makes all the difference between a vibrant display and disappointing rot.

This guide walks you through the simple steps. We’ll cover everything from curing and cleaning to choosing the right storage spot. With a little care, your bulbs will be ready to burst into growth when planting season arrives.

Not all bulbs need to be stored. Hardy spring bulbs like tulips and daffodils are typically planted in the fall. But if you buy them early or need to move them, storage is necessary. Tender summer bulbs like dahlias and gladiolus often must be dug up and stored over winter in colder climates.

Why Proper Storage Matters

Bulbs are living packages of energy. They contain the embryo of next year’s plant along with all the food it needs to start growing. The goal of storage is to preserve that energy.

Poor storage leads to common problems. Bulbs can dry out and become shriveled. They can also rot from excess moisture or sprout prematurely. Rodents might find them and treat them as a winter snack.

Good storage mimics their natural dormant conditions. It keeps them cool, dry, and dark until the right time for planting comes around again.

Step 1: Digging Up and Preparing Bulbs

For tender bulbs already in the ground, timing is crucial. You should dig them up after the foliage has been blackened by the first light frost. Don’t wait for a hard freeze.

Use a garden fork to gently lift the clumps, being careful not to pierce the bulbs.
Shake off excess soil, but don’t wash them with water yet.
Cut off the dead foliage, leaving about an inch or two above the bulb.

Step 2: The Curing and Cleaning Process

This step removes excess moisture from the outer layers. Curing helps heal any minor wounds and prepares the bulb for long-term storage.

Place the bulbs in a single layer on newspaper or a screen in a warm, dry, and airy spot. A garage, shed, or covered porch is perfect.
Let them cure for about one to two weeks. The outer skins should feel dry and papery.
Once cured, gently brush off any remaining dry soil. You can now remove old, loose husks, but don’t force anything.
Discard any bulbs that show obvious signs of disease, damage, or are soft to the touch.

Special Note on Bulb Types

Different bulbs have slighty different needs. Dahlias and cannas have tuberous roots that are more fragile. Handle them gently during curing. Gladiolus corms are easy—just snap off the old, shriveled corm from the base of the new one after curing.

Step 3: Choosing Your Storage Medium

The packing material is vital. It regulates moisture and prevents bulbs from touching each other, which spreads rot.

Peat Moss: A classic choice. It’s slightly acidic and holds minimal moisture.
Vermiculite or Perlite: Excellent for air circulation and keeping things dry.
Wood Shavings: Use untreated, dry shavings (like pine). Avoid cedar, as it can be too aromatic.
Dry Sand: A good option if it’s completely dry.
Plain Newspaper: Simply wrap each bulb loosely. This works well for short periods.

Step 4: Packing Bulbs for Storage

Never dump bulbs into a bag. Always use a breathable container.

Choose a cardboard box, wooden crate, mesh bag, or paper bag. Plastic bins are risky unless they have many air holes.
Add a layer of your chosen medium to the bottom.
Place a single layer of bulbs on top, ensuring they don’t touch.
Cover completely with more medium.
Repeat the layers until the container is full, finishing with a thick layer of medium.
Label the container clearly with the bulb type and variety. You’ll forget by spring!

Step 5: Ideal Storage Conditions

Where you put the packed container is the final, critical piece. The perfect environment has three key factors.

Temperature: Most bulbs need a cool, consistent temperature. Aim for 40-55°F (4-13°C). An unheated basement, garage, or cool cellar is ideal. Avoid places with wide temperature swings.
Humidity: The area should be dry. High humidity encourages mold and rot. If your storage area is damp, consider using a more moisture-absorbing medium like vermiculite.
Darkness: Light can trigger premature sprouting. Keep the containers in a dark place.

Regular Check-Ups Are Essential

Don’t just forget about them until spring. About once a month, take a quick peek.

Look for any bulbs that have started to shrivel. If they feel papery, the storage air might be to dry. A very slightly dampened piece of peat moss placed in the container can help, but be cautious.
Remove any bulbs that have become soft, mushy, or show mold immediately. This prevents it from spreading.
Check for unwanted pests like mice, who might find your stash.

Pre-Planting Preparation

When the correct planting time approaches, take your bulbs out of storage about a week or two early. Inspect each one carefully one last time. Discard any that didn’t make it.

Some bulbs benefit from a quick soak before planting. This is especially true if they appear a bit shriveled. Soak them in lukewarm water for just 1-2 hours to rehydrate them. Don’t leave them soaking for longer, as they can rot.

Now they’re ready to go back into the ground, full of potential for the coming season.

Common Storage Mistakes to Avoid

Even experienced gardeners can make a few errors. Here’s what to watch out for.

Storing in Plastic Bags: This traps moisture and causes rot. Always use breathable materials.
Not Curing Before Storage: Skipping the curing step invites mold to grow in storage.
Storing Damaged Bulbs: One rotten bulb can spoil the whole batch. Be ruthless during inspection.
Too Warm or Too Cold: A freezing attic or a warm furnace room are both unsuitable. Consistency is key.
Forgetting to Label: It’s easy to mix up varieties. A simple label saves confusion later.

FAQ: Storing Bulbs for Future Planting

How long can you store bulbs before planting?

Most bulbs can be stored successfully for several months, typically from when they go dormant until their next planting season. For summer bulbs, thats over winter. For spring bulbs bought early, it might be a few weeks to a couple months in autumn.

Can I store bulbs in the refrigerator?

Yes, for some bulbs this works well. Tulips and hyacinths often benefit from a cold period. Place them in a paper bag in the veggie crisper, away from fruits like apples that release ethylene gas. Don’t store them in the fridge if it’s very humid.

What if my bulbs start sprouting in storage?

This means the storage area is to warm or light is getting in. If sprouts are small and white, you can still plant them immediately if conditions outside are suitable. If not, move them to a cooler, darker spot and try to get them in the ground as soon as possible.

Is it okay to store different types of bulbs together?

It’s fine to store them in the same general area if conditions are right for all of them. However, keep them in separate, labeled containers. Different bulbs have different dormancy periods and you don’t want to mix them up.

My bulbs feel a little soft. Are they dead?

Not necessarily. A slight give is okay for some fleshy bulbs like lilies. But if they are mushy, have dark spots, or smell bad, they are likely rotting and should be discarded. A firm, plump bulb is the goal.

Mastering how to store bulbs until planting is a simple but rewarding garden skill. It protects your investment and ensures you get to enjoy those beautiful blooms year after year. With the right prep, packing, and place, your dormant bulbs will wait patiently for their moment in the sun.