How To Start A Tree From A Root Sprout

Want to grow a new tree for free? Learning how to start a tree from a root sprout is a rewarding and simple way to expand your garden. These sprouts, often called suckers, grow from the roots of an existing tree and can be turned into a whole new plant with the right care.

It’s a fantastic method for cloning fruit trees, shade trees, and ornamentals. You’ll save money and continue the legacy of a tree you love. This guide walks you through the entire process, from identifying the right sprout to planting your new tree.

Before you grab your shovel, it’s crucial to understand what a root sprout is. They are shoots that grow directly from the root system of a parent tree. The tree produces them as a way to spread and survive. For you, they’re like free saplings waiting for a new home.

Not every tree is a good candidate, though. Some species, like many cherries, aspens, and black locusts, produce sprouts readily. Others, like most conifers, rarely do. The best sprouts come from healthy, well-established parent trees.

What You’ll Need to Get Started

A sharp, clean spade or shovel
Pruning shears or a sharp knife (sterilized)
A bucket of water
A container or prepared planting site
Potting mix (if using a container)
Optional: Rooting hormone (powder or gel)

Step 1: Choosing the Perfect Root Sprout

Timing is everything. The best time to collect root sprouts is in late winter or early spring, just before the buds break. The tree is dormant, which reduces shock. You can also do this in late fall after leaf drop.

Look for a sprout that is:

At least 1-2 feet tall and pencil-thick or thicker.
Growing a good distance (several feet) from the main trunk.
Healthy, with plenty of buds and no signs of disease.
Younger sprouts often root more easily than older, woodier ones.

Step 2: Carefully Digging Up the Sprout

This step requires a gentle hand. Your goal is to preserve as many of the sprout’s own roots as possible.

Water the area around the sprout thoroughly the day before. This softens the soil.
Using your spade, dig a wide circle around the sprout. Stay about 8-12 inches away from its stem to avoid damaging its roots.
Dig down deep, at least 10 inches. Remember, your are trying to get under the connecting root.
Once you’ve loosened the soil, carefully lift the root ball. You should see the thick, horizontal root connecting the sprout to the parent tree.

Step 3: Separating the Sprout from the Parent Tree

Now, you need to make a clean cut. Find the large root connecting your sprout to the main tree. Follow it back a few inches from the sprout’s base.

Using your sterilized pruning shears or a sharp knife, sever this root cleanly. Make your cut on the parent tree side of the sprout. Try to leave some of the horizontal root attached to the sprout—it already has a root system started this way.

Immediately place the sprout’s roots in your bucket of water to keep them from drying out. Don’t let them sit in the sun.

To Use Rooting Hormone or Not?

For sprouts you’ve dug with a good portion of there own roots, hormone isn’t usually necessary. However, if your sprout has very few fine roots, dipping the cut end in rooting hormone can encourage growth. It’s a helpful insurance policy.

Step 4: Potting or Heeling In Your New Tree

You have two options now: plant it directly in its final location or pot it up to grow stronger first. Potting is often safer, as it lets you care for the vulnerable tree closely.

Fill a large container (at least 3 gallons) with a well-draining potting mix.
Create a hole in the center and place the sprout’s roots in it. Spread them out gently.
Backfill with soil, ensuring the soil level on the stem is the same as it was when it grew. Don’t bury it deeper.
Water deeply until water runs out the bottom. This settles the soil.

If you’re not ready to pot, you can “heel in” the sprout. Bury its roots in a temporary trench of moist soil or sand in a shady spot. This keeps them alive until you’re ready to plant properly.

Step 5: Caring for Your Potted Root Sprout

Place your potted tree in a sheltered, partially shaded location. Avoid direct, hot sun for the first few weeks. Keep the soil consistently moist but never soggy. You should see new leaf growth in a few weeks, a sign roots are establishing.

Let it grow in the pot for at least one full growing season. This builds a stronger, more extensive root ball that will survive transplanting much better.

Step 6: Planting Your New Tree in the Ground

After a season of growth, your tree is ready for its forever home. The best planting times are again early spring or mid-autumn.

Choose a site with the right sunlight and space for the mature tree species.
Dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper.
Gently remove the tree from its pot, teasing out any circling roots.
Place it in the hole, backfill with native soil, and water thoroughly.
Apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch around the base (keep it away from the trunk) to conserve moisture.

Continue to water it regularly, especially during its first two years in the ground. Staking is usually not needed unless the site is very windy.

Common Problems and How to Avoid Them

Even with care, sometimes issues arise. Here’s how to tackle common ones.

Sprout Wilts and Dies: This is often transplant shock or dried roots. Keep soil moist and provide shade initially. Don’t let the roots dry out during the digging process.
No New Growth: Be patient. It can take weeks. Ensure it’s getting enough water and isn’t in too much sun. The sprout may put energy into root growth first.
Disease: Always start with a healthy sprout and use clean tools. Sterilizing your shears prevents transferring illness from the parent tree.

Why This Method is So Great

Starting trees from root sprouts is more than just economical. It preserves the exact genetic makeup of a tree you admire. If you have a beloved apple tree with fantastic fruit, its sprouts will produce identical apples.

It’s also faster than growing from seed. You’re starting with a shoot that already has some size and a head start on roots. It’s a perfect project for both new and experienced gardeners looking to connect with there plants.

FAQ About Growing Trees from Root Sprouts

Can you start any tree from a root sprout?
No, not all tree species produce viable root sprouts (suckers). Common ones that do include elm, poplar, sumac, fig, lilac, and many fruit trees like plum and apple.

Is it better to grow a tree from a sprout or from seed?
A sprout is a clone and will be identical to the parent, which is good for fruit trees. Seeds have genetic variation and can take much, much longer to mature.

How long until my new tree bears fruit?
If taken from a mature fruit tree, your sprout may bear fruit in 3-5 years, which is often sooner than a tree grown from seed.

Will digging the sprout hurt the parent tree?
If done carefully and infrequently, removing a few sprouts causes minimal harm. Avoid taking to many from one area, and always clean your cuts to help the parent tree heal.

What if the sprout has no roots of its own?
Some sprouts are attached to the main root with little own root growth. You can still try to grow it by treating it like a hardwood cutting, using rooting hormone and potting it up. Success rates are lower, but it’s worth a try.

Starting a tree from a root sprout is a patient and gratifying process. By following these simple steps, you can successfully multiply the trees in your landscape. Remember to choose a healthy sprout, be gentle during seperation, and provide consistent aftercare. With a little time, you’ll have a strong, new tree thriving in your garden.