Knowing how to prune lavender for winter is one of the most important skills for keeping your plants healthy and beautiful for years. This essential winter care guide will walk you through the simple steps to protect your lavender through the cold months.
Proper winter care does more than just tidy up your plant. It prevents the woody center from splitting open, which can kill the lavender. It also encourages vigorous new growth in the spring, leading to more fragrant blooms.
How to Prune Lavender for Winter – Essential Winter Care Guide
Winter pruning is different from a light summer deadheading. Your goal is to shape the plant and remove growth that won’t survive the frost, but without cutting into the old wood where new shoots struggle to emerge.
When is the Best Time for Winter Pruning?
Timing is everything. Prune too late and new growth will be damanged by frost. Prune too early and you might encourage a flush of tender growth at the wrong time.
- In most climates, the ideal window is in early fall, about 6 weeks before your first hard frost is expected.
- This gives the plant time to heal the cuts and harden off before freezing temperatures arrive.
- If you miss the fall window, wait until early spring when you see the first green buds forming at the base. Avoid pruning in the dead of winter.
Tools You’ll Need
Using the right tools makes the job easier and healthier for the plant. Clean, sharp tools prevent tearing and the spread of disease.
- Sharp Bypass Pruners or Secateurs: For most of the cuts.
- Hedge Shears: For quickly shaping large, established plants after you’ve done the detailed pruning with secateurs.
- Gardening Gloves: Lavender can be tough on the hands.
- Disinfectant: Wipe your blades with rubbing alcohol between plants to prevent spreading any problems.
Step-by-Step Pruning Instructions
Follow these steps carefully to ensure you don’t over-prune. It’s always better to be conservative; you can always take a bit more off later if needed.
- Clear the Base: Start by removing any dead or diseased stems at the base of the plant. Also clear away fallen leaves and debris from around the crown, as this can hold moisture and cause rot.
- Identify the Woody Section: Look closely at your lavender plant. You’ll see a woody, grayish-brown section at the base (old wood), and greener, softer growth above it (new wood). Your cuts must stay in the green new wood.
- Shape the Plant: Aim to shape your lavender into a gentle, rounded mound. This shape helps shed snow and rain, preventing damage. Avoid a flat top, which can collect water.
- Make Your Cuts: Using your pruners, cut back about one-third to one-half of the current year’s soft, green growth. Never cut down into the bare, woody stems. Always leave at least a couple of sets of green leaves on each stem.
- Clean Up: Gather and remove all your clippings. Leaving them on the soil can invite pests and fungus over the winter.
Essential Winter Protection Tips
Pruning is just one part of winter care. In colder regions, your lavender will need some extra protection from wet and freezing conditions.
Mulching for Insulation
Lavender hates wet feet more than it hates cold. The right mulch provides insulation while keeping the crown dry.
- Use a loose, gritty mulch like pea gravel, crushed stone, or coarse sand.
- Apply a thin layer (1-2 inches) around the base of the plant, but avoid piling it up against the stem.
- Do not use moisture-retentive mulches like bark or straw, as these can cause the crown to rot.
Managing Moisture and Wind
Winter wet and wind are the biggest killers of lavender. The plant can handle cold if its roots are dry.
- Ensure your lavender is planted in very well-draining soil. If you have heavy clay, consider planting in a raised bed.
- For potted lavender, move pots to a sheltered spot, like against a south-facing wall, and raise them off the ground on pot feet to ensure drainage.
- In areas with harsh winds, a temporary burlap screen can break the wind and prevent desiccation.
Common Pruning Mistakes to Avoid
Even experienced gardeners can make these errors. Being aware of them will help you keep your lavender thriving.
- Cutting Into Old Wood: This is the number one mistake. Stems cut back to the bare wood rarely regrow, leaving a gap in your plant.
- Pruning Too Late: Late fall pruning stimulates new growth that will be killed by frost, weakening the plant.
- Not Pruning at All: Lavender becomes leggy, woody, and splits open in the center. It will produce fewer flowers and have a shorter lifespan.
- Using Dull Tools: This crushes stems instead of cutting them, creating jagged wounds that heal slowly and are prone to disease.
Spring Check-Up
Once the worst of winter has passed, give your lavender a quick inspection. This isn’t a major prune, just a tidy-up.
- In early spring, check for any stems that have been killed by frost. These will be brittle and have no signs of green buds.
- Snip these dead stems back carefully to where you see live growth.
- Apply a light, balanced organic fertilizer to support the spring growth spurt, but don’t over-fertilize as this can lead to floppy growth.
FAQ: Your Lavender Winter Care Questions
Can I prune lavender in November?
It depends on your climate. If you haven’t had a hard frost yet and there’s still 4-6 weeks of mild weather ahead, a light prune may be okay. Otherwise, it’s safer to wait until spring to avoid damanging new growth.
What if my lavender is already woody?
You can try a careful renovation over two seasons. In year one, prune back more aggressively but still avoid the oldest wood. In year two, after it puts on new growth, you can prune back further. Success isn’t always guaranteed, but it’s worth a try for an old plant.
Should I cover lavender in winter?
Covering with plastic or a dense fabric is not recommended, as it traps humidity. If you must cover for extreme cold, use a breathable fabric like burlap and only during the coldest snaps. The best protection is good drainage and a gravel mulch.
How do I care for lavender in pots over winter?
Move pots to a sheltered, sunny location. Water very sparingly, only when the soil is completely dry. The goal is to keep the plant just alive, not growing. Consider insulating the pot by wrapping it in bubble wrap or burlap to protect the roots from freezing solid.
Is it to late to prune if I see new growth?
If you see tiny green buds at the base in late winter or early spring, that’s the perfect time for your main prune. You are not to late; you’re right on schedule for a spring pruning.
Following this guide for how to prune lavender for winter will give your plants the best chance. Remember, the key is a gentle shape, avoiding the woody base, and focusing on good drainage. With this care, your lavender will reward you with robust growth and abundant, fragrant blooms for many seasons to come.