How To Prune Fig Trees

If you have a fig tree, knowing how to prune fig trees is one of the most important skills you can learn. Proper pruning keeps your tree healthy, manageable, and full of delicious fruit. It might seem intimidating at first, but with the right guidance, it’s a straightforward and rewarding task. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know, from the why to the step-by-step how.

Pruning isn’t just about cutting branches. It’s about shaping your tree’s future growth and fruit production. For fig trees, the goal is to create an open structure that lets in sunlight and air. This reduces disease and encourages the growth of new wood, where the best figs form.

Why You Should Prune Your Fig Tree

There are several key benefits to regular pruning. First, it improves the size and quality of your fruit by directing the tree’s energy. Second, it prevents the tree from becoming a tangled, overcrowded mess. An open canopy dries faster after rain, which helps prevent fungal diseases. Finally, it keeps the tree at a height where you can easily harvest every single fig.

Bigger, Better Fruit: Energy goes to fewer, high-quality figs.
Disease Prevention: Good airflow reduces leaf rust and other issues.
Manageable Size: Keeps the tree small enough for easy care and picking.
Strong Structure: Removes weak branches that could break under a heavy crop.

When is the Best Time to Prune?

Timing is crucial for fig tree pruning. The ideal window is during late winter dormancy, just before spring growth begins. In most regions, this means late February or early March. The tree is asleep, so the cuts cause less stress. You can also see the branch structure clearly without leaves in the way.

Avoid pruning in fall or early winter. Fresh cuts made then are more suseptible to cold damage. You can do a light summer prune to remove overly vigorous shoots, but save the major shaping for late winter.

Tools You’ll Need for the Job

Using the right tools makes the job easier and healthier for your tree. Always ensure your tools are sharp and clean. Dirty blades can spread disease from one plant to another.

Bypass Pruners (Hand Shears): For branches up to ¾-inch thick.
Loppers: For branches between ¾-inch and 1½-inches thick.
Pruning Saw: For the largest branches, over 1½ inches.
Rubbing Alcohol or Disinfectant: To sterilize blades between cuts, especially if you suspect disease.
Gloves: Fig sap can irritate skin, and branches can be rough.

Step-by-Step Pruning Guide for Young Trees (Establishing Shape)

The first few years are about building a strong, permanent framework. For most home gardeners, an open vase or bush shape works best.

Year One (At Planting): After planting, cut the young tree back by about half. This encourages low branching.
Year Two (Late Winter): Select 3 to 5 strong, well-spaced branches to be your main “scaffold” limbs. These should radiate outwards. Remove all other shoots, especially those growing inward or crossing.
Year Three & Beyond: Continue to prune to maintain this open shape. Tip back the main branches by a few inches to encourage further branching. Always remove suckers growing from the base and any dead wood.

Step-by-Step Pruning Guide for Mature Trees (Maintenance)

Once your tree has its shape, pruning is about maintenance and renewal.

Remove the 3 D’s: Start by cutting out any Dead, Diseased, or Damaged wood. Cut it back to healthy tissue or all the way to its origin.
Open the Center: Remove any branches growing straight up through the center of the tree or directly inward toward the trunk. The goal is to let light and air into the middle.
Thin Out Crowded Areas: Where branches are rubbing or growing too close together, remove the weaker one. Choose to keep branches with more outward-facing growth.
Shorten Long Branches: Cut back the previous year’s growth by about one-third. Make your cuts just above an outward-facing bud. This controls size and stimulates new fruiting wood.
Remove Suckers & Water Sprouts: Cut off any fast-growing vertical shoots (water sprouts) from main branches and any suckers coming from the roots.

Special Case: Pruning a Neglected Fig Tree

If you’ve inherited an overgrown, tangled fig, don’t panic. You can renovate it over two to three seasons. Never remove more than one-third of the total branches in a single year. In the first winter, focus on removing all dead wood and clearing out the absolute thickest tangle in the center. The next year, continue thinning and shaping. By the third year, you should have it back under control.

Common Pruning Mistakes to Avoid

Even with good intentions, it’s easy to make a few errors. Here’s what to watch out for.

Over-pruning: Taking off to much at once can shock the tree and reduce your crop.
Flush Cuts: Don’t cut flush with the trunk. Make your cut just outside the branch collar (the swollen area where the branch meets the trunk). This helps the tree heal properly.
Dull Tools: They crush instead of cutting cleanly, creating ragged wounds that heal slowly.
Pruning at the Wrong Time: Late winter is safest. Pruning too late in spring can cause excessive sap loss.
Leaving Stubs: Always cut back to a bud or a lateral branch. Stubs die back and can become an entry point for rot.

Aftercare: What to Do After Pruning

Your job isn’t quite done when the last branch hits the ground. Clean up all pruning debris from around the tree to eliminate hiding spots for pests. There’s no need to apply wound paint or sealant to the cuts; trees heal best on their own. Give the tree a good watering if the weather is dry, and consider applying a balanced fertilizer in early spring as growth begins.

FAQ About Pruning Fig Trees

How hard can you prune a fig tree?

Fig trees are very resilient and can tolerate hard pruning if necessary, such as for renovation. However, for a healthy mature tree, moderate annual pruning is better than severe occasional chops.

Can I prune my fig tree in summer?

Yes, but only lightly. Summer is a good time to pinch off the tips of overly vigorous shoots or remove a few branches that are clearly overcrowding others. The main structural pruning should always be done in late winter.

Why does my fig tree have no fruit after pruning?

If you pruned to heavily, the tree put all its energy into making new leaves and wood instead of fruit. Figs form on last year’s growth, so aggressive pruning removes the fruiting wood. Be patient; it should fruit again next season with gentler care.

Do fig trees need to be pruned every year?

For the best fruit production and tree health, yes. Annual late-winter pruning is recomended. It’s easier to do a little each year than a massive job every few years.

What’s the difference between pruning for breba crop and main crop?

Some fig varieties produce two crops. The early “breba” crop grows on old wood from the previous year. The main crop forms on new growth. If you want to maximize your breba crop, be extra careful not to remove too much of last year’s wood during your winter prune.