How To Prune Eucalyptus

If you have a eucalyptus tree or shrub in your garden, knowing how to prune eucalyptus is key to keeping it healthy and looking its best. These fast-growing plants can get out of hand quickly, but with the right cuts at the right time, you can manage their growth and even create stunning foliage displays.

Pruning isn’t just about control. It removes dead or diseased wood, encourages bushier growth, and can help shape a young tree for a strong future. Whether you’re growing it for ornamental leaves, as a screen, or for its aromatic foliage, a good pruning routine makes all the difference. Let’s look at the essential techniques.

This main technique covers the foundational approach for most common garden eucalyptus. The goal is to understand the “why” behind each cut before you make it.

Understanding Eucalyptus Growth Habits

Eucalyptus have a dominant central leader (a main trunk) and will naturally shed lower branches as they grow. They possess dormant buds beneath their bark. This is crucial—it means even if you cut back into leafless wood, the tree can often sprout new shoots, a trait called “coppicing.”

Their rapid growth means wounds heal quickly, which is good. However, avoid heavy pruning of mature, established trees whenever possible, as they don’t respond as well as younger specimens.

Essential Tools You’ll Need

Sharp Bypass Pruners (Secateurs): For stems up to ¾ inch thick.
Loppers: For branches up to about 2 inches in diameter.
Pruning Saw: For anything larger than what loppers can handle.
Safety Gear: Sturdy gloves, safety glasses, and for larger trees, consider a hard hat.
Disinfectant: Rubbing alcohol or a bleach solution to clean tools between cuts, especially if removing diseased wood.

The Best Time to Prune

Timing is simple for most pruning. The ideal window is in late winter to early spring, just before new growth begins. The tree is still dormant but will rapidly heal wounds as the weather warms.

Avoid pruning in late summer or autumn. New, tender growth stimulated by the cut won’t have time to harden off before frost, making it vulnerable to cold damage. You can remove dead or dangerous branches any time of year.

Pruning for Juvenile Foliage (Coppicing or Pollarding)

Many gardeners grow eucalyptus for its beautiful, round, silvery juvenile leaves. To maintain this foliage, you need to practice hard pruning.

Coppicing: In early spring, cut the entire tree or shrub down to 6-12 inches above ground level. It will regrow with vigorous, juvenile stems.
Pollarding: Start when the tree is young. Annually cut all new growth back to the same knobby “head” on the main trunk, usually at a height of 6-10 feet.

Both methods require annual commitment. If you stop, the tree will revert to its normal mature growth habit.

Step-by-Step Pruning Guide

1. Initial Assessment & Safety

Stand back and look at the tree. Identify dead, damaged, or diseased branches (the three D’s). Plan your cuts. For larger trees, ensure you can work safely from the ground or use a professional for high branches.

2. Removing Problem Branches First

Always start with the easy, obvious cuts. Using your sanitized tools:

Cut dead branches back to the healthy wood or to the trunk.
Remove any branches rubbing together or growing inward toward the center.
Take out thin, spindly growth that clutters the structure.

3. Shaping and Thinning

For a natural tree shape, focus on thinning rather than topping. Topping (cutting off the top of the tree) creates weak, unstable growth.

Make thinning cuts by removing select branches entirely back to their point of origin (the trunk or a larger limb). This opens the canopy for light and air.
On younger trees, you can gently guide the shape by pruning back a too-long branch to a side shoot that is growing in a more desirable direction.

4. Making the Cut Correctly

This is the most important technical skill. For a branch under 1 inch, a clean cut with pruners is fine. For larger limbs:

Undercut First: About 12 inches from the trunk, make a small upward cut into the bottom of the branch, about one-third through. This prevents the bark from tearing.
Top Cut: Move an inch further out along the branch and cut downward until the branch breaks away cleanly at the undercut.
Final Cut: Now remove the remaining stub. Cut just outside the branch collar (the slight swollen ring where the branch meets the trunk). Do not cut flush to the trunk and never leave a long stub.

5. Aftercare

Eucalyptus generally don’t need wound paint; their natural resins help seal cuts. Simply clean your tools, dispose of the pruned material (eucalyptus leaves decompose slowly, so don’t shred them for fine mulch), and let the tree do its thing. Water it well if the spring is dry to support its new growth spurt.

Common Pruning Mistakes to Avoid

Pruning at the Wrong Time: Late season pruning invites frost damage.
Topping the Tree: Creates hazardous, weak growth and ruins the tree’s natural form.
Making Flush Cuts: Damages the branch collar and impedes healing.
Over-pruning Mature Trees: Never remove more than 20-25% of the live canopy in a single year. Its better to spread major work over several seasons.
Using Dull Tools: Crushes stems instead of cutting them, leading to disease entry.

Pruning Different Types of Eucalyptus

Not all eucalyptus are towering trees. Adjust your approach for different forms:

Shrub-Forming Varieties (like E. gunnii): These respond very well to hard annual pruning to keep them bushy and produce juvenile growth.
Mallee Types: These multi-stemmed shrubs are adapted to regular pruning. Thin out the oldest stems at the base every few years to renew them.
Young Potted Eucalyptus: Pinch out the growing tips regularly to encourage a bushy, compact habit suitable for containers.

FAQ: Your Eucalyptus Pruning Questions Answered

Can you hard prune an overgrown eucalyptus?

Yes, but with caution. For a badly overgrown shrub, coppicing in spring is often the best solution. For a large, neglected tree, consult a certified arborist. Severe pruning can destabilize a big tree.

How do you prune a eucalyptus tree for height?

You don’t, typically. Topping is harmful. If a tree has outgrown its space, consider having it professionally removed and replant with a dwarf variety. For younger trees, you can sometimes subordinat a too-tall leader by cutting it back to a lower lateral branch, but this requires skill.

What if my pruned eucalyptus isn’t regrowing?

If you cut into very old, thick wood, it may not have dormant buds left. Also, ensure you pruned at the right time. Give it until midsummer; if no growth appears, the branch or tree may be dead. Sometimes a hard frost after pruning can damage new shoots.

How often should eucalyptus be pruned?

For foliage production, coppice or pollard annually. For general tree health and shape, a light pruning every 2-3 years is often sufficient. Always remove problem branches as soon as you spot them.

Mastering how to prune eucalyptus gives you control over these magnificent plants. With sharp tools, correct timing, and proper cuts, you can enjoy their beauty and fragrance in a form that fits your garden perfectly. Remember, start light, observe how your tree responds, and you’ll gain confidence with each season.