An overgrown weeping cherry tree can look wild and lose its graceful shape. Learning how to prune an overgrown weeping cherry tree is key to restoring its beauty and health. With the right approach, you can remove dead wood, improve air flow, and encourage those stunning spring blooms without harming the tree. This guide will walk you through expert techniques to get the job done safely and effectively.
Pruning might seem intimidating, but it’s a necessary part of caring for these ornamental trees. An unpruned tree can become dense, which invites pests and disease. A well-pruned tree, however, is a stunning focal point in any garden. Let’s get started with what you need to know.
How to Prune an Overgrown Weeping Cherry Tree
This main section covers the core principles. Weeping cherries have a unique growth habit, with branches that cascade downward. Your goal is to enhance this natural form, not fight against it. Always work with the tree’s shape in mind.
When is the Best Time to Prune?
Timing is everything for a healthy prune. The ideal window is in late winter or very early spring, just before new growth starts. The tree is dormant then, so it experiences less stress. You can also easily see the branch structure without leaves in the way.
Avoid pruning in fall. Cuts heal slower then, making the tree vulnerable to fungal diseases over winter. Light summer pruning to remove small suckers or damaged branches is okay, but save the major work for late winter.
Essential Tools You’ll Need
Using the right, sharp tools makes clean cuts that heal fast. Here’s what to gather:
* Bypass Hand Pruners: For branches up to ¾-inch thick.
* Loppers: For branches between ¾-inch and 1½-inches thick.
* A Pruning Saw: For any larger branches.
* Pole Pruner: For reaching higher branches safely.
* Safety Gear: Gloves, safety glasses, and a sturdy ladder.
* Disinfectant: Rubbing alcohol or a bleach solution to sterilize your tools before you start and between cuts if you encounter diseased wood.
Step-by-Step Pruning Process
Follow these steps in order for the best results. Take your time and step back often to look at the tree’s overall shape.
Step 1: Remove Dead, Damaged, and Diseased Wood
Start by cleaning out the obvious problems. Look for branches that are broken, rubbing together, or show signs of disease (like discolored bark or cankers). Cut these back to the healthy wood or to the main trunk. Removing this wood first improves the tree’s health and makes the next steps clearer.
Step 2: Eliminate Suckers and Water Sprouts
Suckers are fast-growing vertical shoots that come up from the rootstock. Water sprouts are similar shoots growing vertically from the main branches. They drain energy from the tree and ruin its shape. Cut these off flush at their point of origin. You may need to dig down a little to remove suckers from the root.
Step 3: Thin Out the Canopy for Air and Light
An overgrown tree is often too thick inside. Your goal here is to allow light and air to penetrate. This reduces disease risk. Choose crowded areas and selectively remove entire branches back to their point of origin. Aim to space out the remaining main branches. Don’t just shorten everything; thinning is about removal, not topping.
Step 4: Shape the Weeping Form
This is where you restore the graceful look. Weeping branches should touch or nearly touch the ground. Identify the longest, healthiest weeping branches that define the skirt of the tree. Prune any side shoots on these main weeping branches that grow upward instead of downward. Shorten any weeping branches that are too long or trailing on the ground by cutting them back to a bud that faces outward.
Step 5: Make Proper Cuts
How you cut is as important as what you cut. For large branches, use the three-cut method to prevent bark from tearing:
1. Make an undercut about 12 inches from the trunk.
2. Make a second cut from the top, a few inches further out, to remove the bulk of the branch.
3. Make a final clean cut just outside the branch collar (the swollen area where the branch meets the trunk).
Never cut flush with the trunk. The branch collar contains tissues that help the wound seal.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Even experienced gardeners can slip up. Here are pitfalls to steer clear of:
* Topping the Tree: Never chop off the top of the central leader or the main weeping branches. This destroys its natural form.
* Making “Lion’s Tails”: This is when you strip all the inner branches, leaving only a puff of growth at the end. It weakens the branch structure.
* Over-pruning: Never remove more than 25% of the living canopy in a single year. If the tree is severely overgrown, spread the work over 2-3 seasons.
* Using Dull or Dirty Tools: This creates ragged cuts that invite infection.
Aftercare and Maintenance
Once you’ve finished pruning, your job isn’t completely done. Good aftercare helps the tree recover and thrive. Water the tree deeply if the weather is dry, especially in the first growing season after a heavy prune. A layer of mulch around the base (but not touching the trunk) helps retain moisture.
Avoid using wound paint or sealant. Research shows trees heal best when cuts are left to callus naturally. Going forward, a light annual pruning to maintain shape is much easier than tackling an overgrown tree again.
FAQ: Pruning Weeping Cherry Trees
How much can I cut off an overgrown weeping cherry?
As a general rule, don’t remove more than one-quarter of the living branches in a single year. If it’s wildly overgrown, plan a two or three-year pruning plan to avoid shocking the tree.
Can I prune a weeping cherry tree in the summer?
You can do very light pruning in summer, like removing small suckers or broken branches. However, the main structural pruning should always be done in late winter.
My tree hasn’t been pruned in years. Where do I even start?
Start with the “Three D’s”: Dead, Diseased, and Damaged wood. Removing that immediately helps. Then, in your first year, focus on thinning the canopy and removing suckers. Save detailed shaping for the second year.
Why is my weeping cherry not flowering after pruning?
If you pruned at the wrong time (like late spring), you might have removed the flower buds. Weeping cherries set buds on old wood. Pruning in late winter, before buds swell, ensures you won’t cut them off. Also, over-pruning can stress the tree, leading to fewer blooms the next season.
How do I prune a young weeping cherry tree?
For young trees, focus on training. Select 4-6 strong, well-spaced main branches to form the structure. Remove any branches growing upright from these leaders. Keep the skirt trimmed so it doesn’t drag on the ground, but let it develop its full weeping form.
Pruning an overgrown weeping cherry is a rewarding project. It extends the life of your tree and ensures it remains a beautiful, healthy part of your garden for many springs to come. Remember to prune with patience, use sharp tools, and always respect the tree’s natural graceful shape. With these techniques, you can confidently bring your tree back to its best.