Learning how to prune a lavender plant is the single most important skill for keeping yours healthy and beautiful for years. It’s not hard, but doing it correctly makes all the difference between a leggy, woody shrub and a lush, fragrant one.
This guide will walk you through the simple steps. We’ll cover the best times to prune, the tools you need, and the common mistakes to avoid. With a little care, your lavender will thrive.
How To Prune A Lavender Plant
Pruning lavender isn’t just about cutting it back. It’s about shaping the plant and encouraging new, bushy growth from the base. The main goal is to prevent it from becoming too woody in the center, which can cause it to split open and look ragged.
There are two main pruning sessions each year: a light trim after flowering and a harder cut in late summer or early spring. Let’s get your tools ready first.
Essential Tools for the Job
You don’t need anything fancy. Using clean, sharp tools is key to making clean cuts that heal quickly.
- Sharp Bypass Pruners or Secateurs: These are your main tool for most cuts.
- Gardening Gloves: Lavender can be a bit scratchy on your hands.
- A Basket or Tarp: To collect your cuttings—they make great potpourri!
- Hedge Shears (Optional): Useful only for the initial light trim on large, established hedges. Always follow up with pruners for detailed work.
The Best Time to Prune Lavender
Timing is everything. Pruning at the wrong time can stress the plant or remove next year’s flower buds.
- Light Prune (Deadheading): Right after the first flush of flowers fades, usually in mid-summer. This encourages a possible second, smaller bloom.
- Hard Prune (Shape & Size): The most critical cut. Do this in late summer, about 6 weeks before your first frost, or in early spring as new green growth appears at the base. Avoid pruning in late fall or winter.
A Step-by-Step Pruning Guide
Follow these numbered steps for your main, harder prune. For the light summer prune, simply follow step 1.
Step 1: Remove the Spent Flower Stalks
Start by cutting off the old flower stems. Follow the stem down to where it meets the main leafy part of the plant.
Make your cut about an inch or two above the leaves. This cleans up the plant and gets rid of dead material.
Step 2: Shape the Foliage
Now, look at the leafy mound of the plant. You want to cut back about one-third of the current year’s soft, green growth.
Never cut back into the old, bare wood. Always leave a few sets of green leaf nodes on each stem. If you see no green leaves lower down on a stem, don’t cut below the last green bit.
Step 3: Create a Rounded Shape
As you prune, aim for a gently rounded, mound-like shape. This helps the plant shed rain and snow easily, preventing damage.
A flat-topped or uneven shape can trap water and lead to rot. A rounded form is also more natural and attractive in the garden.
Step 4: Clean Up and Clear Out
Once you’ve shaped the plant, remove any dead or damaged stems from the interior and base. This improves air circulation.
Good airflow is crucial for preventing fungal diseases, especially in humid climates. Clear away all cuttings from around the plant’s base.
Common Pruning Mistakes to Avoid
Even experienced gardeners can make these errors. Being aware of them will save your lavender.
- Cutting Into Old Wood: This is the biggest mistake. Lavender often won’t regrow from leafless, woody stems. If you must, try a small test cut first.
- Pruning Too Late in Fall: New growth stimulated by a late cut will be tender and can be killed by frost, harming the whole plant.
- Not Pruning Enough: A timid trim won’t prevent woodiness. Be bold but careful, always staying in the green.
- Using Dull or Dirty Tools: This crushes stems and can spread disease between plants. Wipe blades with rubbing alcohol between plants.
Caring for Your Lavender After Pruning
Your plant doesn’t need much fuss after a good prune. In fact, over-care is often the problem.
Hold off on fertilizing. Lavender thrives in poor, lean soil and too much feed can make it grow weak, floppy stems. You only need to water it if conditions are very dry after pruning.
If you pruned in late summer, the plant will focus on root growth before winter. If you pruned in early spring, it will direct energy into producing fresh, bushy growth and flower buds.
What to Do With Woody, Overgrown Lavender
If you’ve inherited an old, sprawling plant, don’t despair. You can try a renovation prune, but success isn’t guaranteed.
In early spring, examine the plant. Look closely at the woody stems for any tiny green bumps or shoots. These are latent buds.
Prune back very carefully, cutting just above these buds. If you see no green signs at all on a stem, it’s best to remove that entire stem at the base. The plant may recover with new growth from the roots or lower stems.
Sometimes, the kindest thing is to replace a very old, split plant. You can take semi-ripe cuttings from any healthy green stems in summer to propagate new ones.
FAQ: Your Lavender Pruning Questions Answered
Can I prune lavender in the spring?
Yes, early spring is a fine alternative to late summer pruning. Wait until you see new green growth at the base of the plant, then prune back the old stems carefully.
How do you prune lavender for winter?
You don’t do a major prune for winter. The late summer prune preps it for winter. In fall, just ensure the plant is clean and shaped so snow slides off easily.
How far back do you cut lavender?
For the annual hard prune, cut back about one-third of the current season’s soft growth. Always stay in the green leafy area and avoid the old, brown wood.
What happens if you don’t prune lavender?
Unpruned lavender becomes woody, leggy, and splits open in the center. It produces fewer flowers and becomes unstable, often collapsing under it’s own weight.
Pruning lavender is an act of care that ensures many seasons of beauty and scent. By following these simple steps at the right time, you’ll keep your plants compact, floriferous, and healthy. Remember the golden rule: always leave some green leaves, and your lavender will reward you generously.