How To Propagate Monstera

Want more of those gorgeous, split-leaf beauties in your home? Learning how to propagate monstera is the easiest and most rewarding way to expand your plant collection for free. This simple step-by-step guide will walk you through the foolproof methods, so you can share plants with friends or fill your own space with more lush, tropical greenery.

Propagation is just a fancy word for creating a new plant from a piece of an existing one. Monsteras are incredibly cooperative for this process. With a few basic supplies and a little patience, you’ll be a propagation pro in no time. Let’s get started on multiplying your favorite plant.

There are a few different ways to propagate your monstera, but water propagation is the most popular for beginners. It’s simple and lets you watch the roots grow, which is really exciting. You can also propagate in soil or sphagnum moss. The choice often depends on the condition of your cutting and your personal preference.

What You’ll Need for Propagation

Gathering your supplies before you start makes the whole process smoother. You likely have most of these items at home already.

A healthy, mature monstera plant
Clean, sharp pruning shears or a knife
A small jar, vase, or glass for water propagation
Fresh potting mix (for soil propagation)
A small pot with drainage holes
Optional: Rooting hormone powder or gel
Optional: Sphagnum moss (for the moss method)

Choosing and Taking the Perfect Cutting

The success of your propagation starts with a great cutting. You must select a piece of the plant that has the potential to grow new roots. Look for a stem that includes a node.

Identifying the Node and Aerial Root

The node is a brownish, ring-like bump on the stem where leaves and roots emerge. An aerial root is a brown, nubby growth coming from the node. This is where your new roots will sprout from. A cutting without a node will not grow. It’s that simple.

Where to Make the Cut

Using your clean shears, cut about a half-inch below the node. Ensure your cutting has at least one node and one leaf, though two leaves is even better. A longer stem below the node is fine—you can always trim it later. Make sure your tools are clean to prevent introducing any disease to the mother plant or your new cutting.

Method 1: Water Propagation (The Easiest Way)

This is the best method for beginners because it’s straightforward and visual. Follow these numbered steps for the best results.

Place your cutting in a jar or vase so that the node is fully submerged in water. The leaf should be sticking out the top.
Put the jar in a spot with bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sun, which can cook the cutting or encourage algae.
Change the water every 5-7 days to keep it fresh and oxygenated. This prevents bacterial growth.
Wait patiently! You should see small white roots beginning to grow from the node in 2-4 weeks.
Once the roots are at least 3-4 inches long (and have secondary roots), your cutting is ready for soil.

Method 2: Soil Propagation (Direct Planting)

This method skips the water step and plants the cutting directly into soil. It requires a bit more attention to moisture but can lead to a stronger root system adapted to soil from the start.

Dip the cut end of your stem, especially the node area, into rooting hormone. This step is optional but can speed things up.
Fill a small pot with a well-draining aroid mix. You can make your own with potting soil, orchid bark, and perlite.
Make a small hole in the soil and insert the cutting, gently firming the soil around the node.
Water the soil thoroughly until it drains out the bottom.
Place the pot in a warm location with bright, indirect light. Keep the soil consistently moist (but not soggy) for the first few weeks.

Method 3: Sphagnum Moss Propagation

This method is excellent for cuttings that might be a bit more delicate or for encouraging larger aerial roots. Moss retains moisture while still allowing air flow.

Soak a handful of sphagnum moss in water until it’s fully hydrated, then squeeze out the excess.
Wrap the moist moss around the node of your cutting.
You can place this bundle into a clear plastic bag or wrap it with plastic wrap to create a humid environment. Some people use a clear cup.
Check the moss every few days to ensure it stays damp. Roots should appear within a few weeks.
Once roots are established, you can pot the cutting into soil, moss and all.

Caring for Your New Monstera Plant

After your propagated cutting has developed a good root system and is potted in soil, it needs the right care to thrive. Treat it like a juvenile version of it’s parent plant.

Light: Provide bright, indirect light. Too much direct sun will scorch the leaves.
Water: Water when the top 1-2 inches of soil feel dry. Monsteras dislike sitting in wet soil.
Humidity: They appreciate higher humidity. A humidifier or pebble tray can help, especially in dry climates.
Support: As it grows, it will need a moss pole or stake to climb on, just like mature monsteras do.

Troubleshooting Common Propagation Problems

Sometimes, things don’t go perfectly. Here’s how to fix common issues.

Yellowing Leaves

This is often a sign of stress or overwatering. In water propagation, it can mean the leaf is just aging. If the node and roots look healthy, it’s usually fine. For soil plants, let the soil dry out more between waterings.

Rotting Stem in Water or Soil

Rot means there’s too much moisture and not enough air. If your cutting is rotting in water, trim the mushy part off above the node, clean the jar, and use fresh water. In soil, you may need to take the cutting out, trim the rot, and restart in water or fresh, drier soil.

No Root Growth After Weeks

Be patient—some cuttings are slower. Ensure the node is in contact with the water or soil. Warmth and good light can encourage rooting. If it’s been over a month, check that the node is still healthy and not rotting.

FAQ: Your Monstera Propagation Questions Answered

Can you propagate a monstera leaf without a node?

No, you cannot. The node contains the cells needed to produce new roots. A leaf alone in water may stay alive for months but will never develop into a full plant.

How long does monstera propagation take?

In water, you’ll often see initial roots in 2-4 weeks. It can take 1-2 months to get roots long enough for potting. Soil propagation timelines are similar but are harder to see.

What’s the best time of year to propagate monstera?

Spring and early summer are ideal because the plant is in its active growing phase. However, you can successfully propagate year-round indoors if you provide adequate warmth and light.

Why are my propagated monstera’s leaves not splitting?

Juvenile monsteras produce solid, heart-shaped leaves. Splits and holes (called fenestrations) only appear as the plant matures and receives sufficient light. Your new plant will develop them in time.

Can I propagate a monstera from a cutting with only an aerial root?

Yes! A cutting with a node and an aerial root is actually ideal. That aerial root will quickly convert into a regular root system, often speeding up the propagation process significantly.

Propagating your monstera is a simple and satisfying project. By following these clear steps, you can turn one plant into many. Remember, the key ingredients are a good node, clean tools, and a little bit of patience. Before you know it, you’ll have healthy new monsteras to enjoy all over your home.