Planting boxwood shrubs is a fantastic way to add structure and year-round beauty to your garden. If you’re wondering how to plant boxwood shrubs, this simple guide will walk you through every step for success. These versatile evergreens are tougher than they look, but giving them a great start is key to a healthy, long-lived plant. Let’s get your new boxwoods in the ground the right way.
First, choose a good spot. Most boxwoods prefer partial sun to partial shade, meaning about 4-6 hours of sunlight daily. They can handle full sun with enough water, and some tolerate deeper shade. Well-drained soil is absolutely non-negotiable. Boxwoods hate wet feet. Before you buy anything, test your soil drainage by digging a hole and filling it with water. If it drains within a few hours, you’re good.
Selecting the right variety is also crucial. Some boxwoods, like ‘Green Velvet,’ stay small and rounded. Others, like ‘Dee Runk,’ grow tall and columnar. Check the plant tag for the mature size and make sure it fits your space without needing constant pruning. You can find boxwoods sold as container plants or balled-and-burlapped (B&B). Container plants are easier to handle and can be planted almost any time the ground isn’t frozen.
How to Plant Boxwood Shrubs
Now for the main event. Follow these steps for the best results. The best times to plant are in the fall or early spring. This gives the roots time to establish before the stress of summer heat or winter cold.
Step 1: Gather Your Tools and Materials
You won’t need anything fancy. Here’s your checklist:
* Your boxwood shrub
* A shovel and maybe a garden fork
* A pair of sharp pruners
* A measuring tape or stick
* Compost or other organic matter
* A bucket or wheelbarrow for mixing
* Mulch (like pine bark or shredded hardwood)
* A hose with water
Step 2: Prepare the Planting Hole
This step is where many gardeners go wrong. The hole should be two to three times as wide as the root ball. This is essential. It loosens the soil so roots can spread out easily. However, the depth should be only as deep as the root ball. Planting too deep is a major cause of plant failure.
Use your shovel to score the sides of the hole if the soil is smooth and slick. This helps roots penetrate the native soil. Do not amend the backfill soil with too much compost. A little mixed in is fine, but studies show roots stay in the rich pocket and don’t venture out. You want them to grow into the surrounding ground.
Step 3: Prepare the Shrub
For a container-grown boxwood, gently remove it from the pot. Inspect the root ball. If roots are circling tightly, you need to loosen them. Use your fingers or pruners to tease apart the outer roots. This encourages them to grow outward. For a B&B plant, remove any ropes or wire baskets after placing it in the hole. Cut away as much burlap as you can, especially from the top and sides.
Sometimes, the root ball is very dry. If so, soak it in a bucket of water for about 15-30 minutes until it’s thoroughly moistened before planting.
Step 4: Position and Backfill
Place the shrub in the center of the hole. The top of the root ball should be level with or just slightly above the surrounding soil. It may settle a bit. Now, backfill the hole with the soil you removed, breaking up any large clumps as you go.
Gently firm the soil around the root ball with your hands to remove large air pockets. Avoid stomping with your feet, as this can compact the soil too much. You can create a small soil berm around the edge of the planting hole to form a water basin.
Step 5: Water and Mulch Deeply
This is the most important step after planting. Water the shrub slowly and thoroughly. Fill the basin you created, let it drain, and then fill it again. This ensures water reaches the entire root zone and settles the soil. Continue to water deeply once or twice a week for the first growing season, unless rainfall is plentiful.
Apply 2-3 inches of mulch around the shrub. Keep the mulch a few inches away from the main stem to prevent rot and rodent damage. Mulch is a game-changer—it conserves moisture, keeps roots cool, and suppresses weeds.
Step 6: Initial Pruning and Care
You generally don’t need to prune right after planting. Let the plant focus on root growth. However, you can snip off any broken or damaged branches. For the first year, focus on consistent watering. Hold off on fertilizer until you see new growth, usually in the second season. A light application of a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in spring is plenty.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Even with the best instructions, it’s easy to slip up. Here’s what to watch for:
Planting Too Deeply
This is the number one killer. The trunk flare (where the trunk widens at the base) must be visible above the soil line. If it’s buried, the plant can suffocate and become susceptible to disease.
Over-Amending the Soil
As mentioned, a little compost is good. Turning the entire planting hole into a “pot” of rich soil discourages roots from expanding. They get lazy and stay in the comfortable zone.
Inconsistent Watering
Boxwoods need steady moisture their first year. Don’t let them dry out completely, but also don’t keep them soggy. The goal is evenly moist soil. A soaker hose or drip irrigation makes this much easier to manage.
Incorrect Spacing
It’s tempting to plant small shrubs close together for an instant hedge. Always space them based on their mature width, not their size at purchase. Crowded plants struggle for light and air, leading to disease.
Long-Term Boxwood Success
Once established, boxwoods are quite low-maintenance. They benefit from an annual application of mulch. Prune in late winter or early spring before new growth starts, using hand pruners for a natural look. Avoid shearing into tight shapes if you can, as this creates a dense outer shell that blocks light and air from the center.
Watch for pests like boxwood leafminer or diseases like boxwood blight. Good air circulation, proper planting depth, and avoiding overhead watering are your best defenses. If you notice yellowing leaves or dieback, consult your local extension service for advice.
With this simple, step-by-step approach, your new boxwood shrubs will thrive for years to come. They provide classic beauty and structure, making all the initial effort well worth it.
FAQ: Planting and Caring for Boxwoods
What is the best month to plant boxwood?
Early fall is ideal, giving roots time to grow in cool, moist soil. Early spring is also excellent, as long as you can provide consistent watering through the first summer.
How far apart should I plant boxwood shrubs for a hedge?
For a formal hedge, space plants at a distance equal to half of their mature width. For example, if the variety grows 4 feet wide, plant them 2 feet apart. For a more informal look, space them closer to the full mature width.
Can boxwoods be planted in full shade?
They can survive in full shade, but growth will be very slow and the foliage may become sparse. Dappled shade or morning sun with afternoon shade is often the sweet spot for most varieties.
How often should I water newly planted boxwoods?
Water deeply 1-2 times per week for the first growing season, depending on weather. The goal is to keep the root ball area moist but not waterlogged. Always check the soil with your finger before watering.
Do boxwoods need acidic soil?
They prefer a soil pH that is slightly acidic to neutral (6.5 to 7.2). If your soil is very acidic, a light application of garden lime may be beneficial. A simple soil test can give you the answer.
Why are the leaves on my new boxwood turning yellow?
A few yellow leaves inside the plant is normal as it adjusts. Widespread yellowing can indicate overwatering, poor drainage, or planting too deep. Check your soil moisture and ensure the trunk flare is exposed.