A bumpy lawn is more than just an eyesore. It’s a tripping hazard and makes mowing difficult. If you want a professional-grade finish without the cost, learning how to make a lawn leveling rake is a perfect weekend project. This DIY tool lets you spread topdressing mix smoothly for a flat, healthy turf.
You can buy leveling rakes, but they are often expensive and bulky. A homemade version is cheap, customizable to your size, and incredibly effective. With some basic materials and tools, you’ll have a tool that makes lawn leveling simple.
How to Make a Lawn Leveling Rake
This project requires minimal woodworking skills. The core idea is to create a wide, flat drag that glides over your grass, slicing off high spots and filling low ones. We’ll build a sturdy, easy-to-handle design.
First, gather your materials. You likely have some of these already.
Materials Needed:
* One 8-foot long 2×4 board (standard pine is fine)
* One 3-foot long 1×4 board
* Outdoor deck screws (2.5-inch and 1.5-inch lengths)
* Two sturdy screw eyes or a 4-foot length of rope
* Coarse-thread drywall screws (2-inch length, 8-10 pieces)
* Exterior wood glue
* Sandpaper (medium grit)
* Exterior wood sealant or paint (optional but recommended)
Tools Required:
* Saw (a circular saw or handsaw works)
* Power drill with bits
* Tape measure
* Pencil
* Speed square or other right-angle guide
* Safety glasses
Measuring and Cutting the Frame
Start by building the main frame. This is the part that will contact the ground.
1. From your 8-foot 2×4, cut two 3-foot long pieces. These are the side rails.
2. Next, cut two 18-inch long pieces from the remaining 2×4. These are the cross braces.
3. Take your 3-foot 1×4 board. This will be your back blade. You can leave it at 3 feet, or cut it down to match the width of your frame later.
Lay the pieces on a flat surface. Ensure all cuts are straight for a square frame.
Assembling the Main Rake Body
This step creates the basic rectangular drag. Accuracy here ensures it pulls evenly.
1. Lay the two 3-foot side rails parallel to each other, about 18 inches apart.
2. Position one 18-inch cross brace between the rails at one end. The ends of the cross brace should be flush with the outer edges of the side rails. It should form a perfect rectangle.
3. Apply a bead of wood glue to the joining ends.
4. Drill pilot holes to prevent the wood from splitting. Then, secure the cross brace to each side rail using two 2.5-inch deck screws at each joint.
5. Repeat the process with the second cross brace at the other end of the side rails.
Check that the frame is square by measuring diagonally from corner to corner. Both measurements should be equal. Let the glue set for a bit.
Attaching the Leveling Blade
The blade is crucial. It’s the 1×4 board that actually scrapes and spreads the material. We’ll attach it to the back of the frame.
1. Lay the assembled frame flat with the cross braces facing down.
2. Take your 1×4 board. Place it along the back edge of the frame, so it sits on top of the two side rails. It should overhang the back by about 2 inches—this overhang is the cutting edge.
3. This board should sit flush with the ends of the side rails or be slightly inset. Clamp it in place if you can.
4. Secure the blade to each side rail using three 2.5-inch deck screws, driven down through the 1×4 into the 2×4 beneath.
Your rake now has a solid L-shaped profile from the side.
Adding the Tine Screws for Aggressive Leveling
For lawns with significant bumps, you need teeth to really break up soil. That’s what the drywall screws are for.
1. Flip the rake over so the frame is facing up and the blade is off the ground.
2. Along the center of the leading 2×4 cross brace (the one that will hit the ground first), mark points for screws every 4 to 6 inches.
3. At each mark, drive a 2-inch coarse-thread drywall screw straight down. Leave about 1 to 1.5 inches of the screw exposed below the wood. These act as aggressive tines to scarify high spots.
Be careful not to over-tighten these; you want them firmly in place, but not so deep they lose their length.
Installing the Pulling Handle
You need a way to pull the rake. A simple rope or tow system works best for an even drag.
1. Option A (Screw Eyes): Attach a sturdy screw eye to the top of each side rail, about 6 inches from the front cross brace. Thread a strong rope through both eyes, tying it off to create a single pull point in the center.
2. Option B (Direct Rope): Simply drill a 3/4-inch hole through each side rail in the same location. Thread a long rope through both holes and tie a large knot on the outside of each hole. Then, gather the two rope ends together.
The goal is to have a connection point that allows you to pull the rake evenly without it digging in at one corner.
Sanding and Sealing for Longevity
Your DIY tool is functional now, but a little finish work will make it last for years.
1. Sand all rough edges, especially on the blade and handles. This prevents splinters and helps it glide better.
2. Wipe away all dust.
3. Apply an exterior wood sealant, stain, or paint. This protects the wood from moisture and soil. Let it dry completely before use.
And there you have it! Your custom lawn leveling rake is ready for action.
How to Use Your Homemade Leveling Rake
Building the tool is only half the job. Using it correctly gives you the smooth lawn you want. Here’s the best process.
Prepare Your Lawn:
* Mow your grass shorter than usual.
* Aerate the lawn if it’s compacted. This helps the topdressing settle into the soil.
* Identify major low spots. You may need to add a bit more soil to these areas first.
Mix Your Topdressing:
A good mix is crucial. Use a combination of:
* 2 parts dry, screened topsoil
* 1 part sharp sand or masonry sand
* 1 part compost or peat moss
Mix it thoroughly until it’s uniform and dry. Wet material will clump and not spread evenly.
Apply and Level:
1. Shovel small piles of your topdressing mix onto the lawn.
2. Attach your rope to a sturdy belt, or simply pull by hand.
3. Start dragging the rake over the piles. The blade will spread the material, and the tines will help break up any turf or thatch.
4. Work in different directions to ensure even coverage. Don’t smother the grass; you should still see grass blades poking through the layer.
5. For final smoothing, you can detach the rope and use the rake in a push-pull motion like a traditional rake.
Water the lawn lightly to help the material settle down to the roots. Repeat the process in bad areas if needed after a few days.
Why This DIY Method Beats Store-Bought
You might wonder why not just buy a tool. Your homemade version has distinct advantages.
* Cost: This project costs a fraction of a commercial metal leveling rake.
* Custom Width: You can adjust the plans to make it wider for big lawns or narrower for tight spaces.
* Weight: The wood provides enough weight to spread material effectively without being to heavy to pull.
* Satisfaction: There’s a real pride in using a tool you built yourself to improve your home.
It’s also a very adaptable design. If you find you need more or less aggressive tines, you can simply adjust or remove the drywall screws.
Common Leveling Mistakes to Avoid
Even with a great tool, errors can happen. Steer clear of these pitfalls for the best results.
* Using Wet Soil: Always use dry topdressing mix. Wet soil will smother grass and create clumps.
* Applying Too Much: Never dump more than 1/2 inch of material at once. It can kill the existing grass.
* Skipping Preparation: Mowing and aerating are essential steps. Don’t rush them.
* Ignoring the Season: The best time to level is during the grass’s peak growing season (late spring/early fall for cool-season grasses). This lets it recover quickly.
* Forgetting to Water: A light watering settles the material. But avoid creating muddy ruts with too much water pressure.
Patience is key. Leveling a lawn properly often takes two or three passes over successive seasons for a perfect result.
Maintaining Your DIY Lawn Tool
With minimal care, your rake will serve you for many years.
After each use, hose off any caked-on mud and soil. Let it dry completely before storing it in a garage or shed. At the start of each season, check the screws for tightness and look for any wood rot. A quick new coat of sealant every other year will greatly extend it’s life.
FAQ: Your Lawn Leveling Questions Answered
What is the best sand for lawn leveling?
Sharp sand or masonry sand is best. Avoid play sand or fine beach sand, as they can compact and create drainage problems.
Can I level my lawn without topdressing?
For very minor bumps, you can slice the turf with a shovel, fold it back, and add or remove soil underneath. But for overall leveling, topdressing with a drag rake is the standard method.
How often should I level my yard?
For maintenance, a light leveling once a year is good. For correcting major unevenness, you might do focused applications over 2-3 seasons.
Is a leveling rake the same as a thatch rake?
No. A thatch rake has sharp, curved blades to pull organic matter out. A leveling rake is a drag tool designed to spread material evenly across the surface.
Can I pull my DIY rake with a lawn tractor?
Yes, you can. Simply create a longer rope or chain attachment. Go very slowly on a low speed setting to ensure an even pull and avoid damaging your turf.
Building your own tool is a rewarding project that saves money and gives you precise control over your lawn’s finish. With your new rake and the right technique, you can achive a smooth, professional-looking lawn that’s safer and more beautiful. The process is straightforward, and the results are well worth the effort.