How To Kill Vinca Vine

If you’re dealing with an aggressive ground cover that’s taking over your garden beds, you need to know how to kill vinca vine. This guide covers effective removal methods to reclaim your space from this persistent perennial, also known as periwinkle or myrtle.

Vinca vine is a tough customer. It spreads quickly by trailing stems that root at the nodes and can form a dense mat that smothers other plants. Its waxy leaves and deep root system make it a challenge to remove, but it’s not impossible. With the right approach and a bit of persistence, you can get rid of it for good.

Successfully eliminating vinca requires a multi-pronged strategy. You can’t just pull it once and be done. The key is to disrupt its growth cycle and exhaust the energy stored in its roots. Here are the core methods, from manual to chemical.

Manual Removal: The Physical Approach

For smaller infestations or organic gardens, manual removal is your first line of defense. It’s labor-intensive but very effective if done throughly. The best time to do this is after a rain, when the soil is soft.

Gather Your Tools: You’ll need a sturdy garden fork or a dandelion weeder, heavy-duty gloves, and a tarp or wheelbarrow.
Loosen the Soil: Use the fork to gently loosen the soil around and under the vinca mat. Try to get under the root system.
Pull and Roll: Grab handfuls of the vines and slowly roll them back, like a carpet. The goal is to get as many of the trailing stems and roots as possible.
Remove All Debris: Every single piece of stem or root left behind can regrow. Place all debris in a bag for disposal—do not compost it.

Smothering: Let Darkness Do the Work

Smothering, or solarization, cuts off the vine’s access to light and air. This method is excellent for larger areas and is completely chemical-free. It takes time, but it’s very reliable.

Mow or cut the vinca as low to the ground as you possibly can.
Water the area thoroughly to promote soil activity and soften the ground.
Cover the entire area with a solid barrier. Overlapping cardboard or 4-6 mil black plastic sheeting works best.
Secure the edges with rocks, soil, or landscape staples. Leave it in place for at least one full growing season. Two full seasons is even better to ensure everything is dead.
After removing the cover, fork over the area to remove any decomposed matter before replanting.

Chemical Control: Using Herbicides

For severe, widespread infestations, a systemic herbicide may be necessary. These are absorbed by the plant and translocated to the roots. Always choose a product labeled for tough brush or vines and follow the manufacturer’s instructions to the letter.

Choosing the Right Herbicide

Look for herbicides containing glyphosate or triclopyr. These are non-selective, meaning they will kill any plant they touch, so careful application is crucial. For areas near desirable plants, a selective brush killer with triclopyr might be safer.

Application Tips for Best Results

Apply in late summer or early fall when the plant is actively sending nutrients to its roots.
Spray on a calm, dry day to prevent drift onto other plants.
Cut or mow the vinca first, then apply the herbicide to the fresh-cut stems and new growth for better absorption.
You will likely need multiple applications, spaced a few weeks apart. Don’t get discouraged if it doesn’t work after one try.

The Combined Attack: Most Effective Strategy

The most succesful approach often combines these methods. Start by manually removing as much vine as you can to reduce the biomass. Then, apply a systemic herbicide to the remaining growth and regrowth. Finally, monitor the area for any new sprouts and pull them immediately or spot-treat them.

Consistency is your greatest ally. Vinca is tenacious, and you must be more tenacious. Check the area every two weeks for an entire year after your initial removal effort.

Preventing Vinca Vine’s Return

Once you’ve cleared the area, you need to guard against its return. Vinca can creep back from neighboring properties or from overlooked root fragments.

Install a deep edging barrier (at least 10 inches deep) between your garden and any adjacent infestations.
Plant dense, aggressive native ground covers or shrubs to compete with any potential vinca seedlings.
Maintain a regular weeding schedule, especially in the first two years after removal. Immediate action on any sprout is critical.

What to Do With Removed Vinca Debris

Never compost vinca vines or roots. They can survive the composting process and spread when you use the compost. Instead, bag the debris in heavy-duty black plastic bags, seal them, and leave them in the sun to bake for a season before disposing with yard waste. Alternatively, you can let the piles dry out completely until they are brittle and brown before bagging.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Many gardeners make a few key errors that let the vinca come back stronger.

Tilling: Tilling chops the roots and stems into tiny pieces, each of which can grow a new plant. It’s one of the worst things you can do.
Incomplete Removal: Leaving even small pieces of stem in the soil guarantees regrowth.
Giving Up Too Soon: This is a long-term project. Expect to manage the area for up to two years before declaring victory.
Using Weak Herbicides: General “weed and grass” killers often lack the strength to tackle vinca’s robust system.

FAQ: Your Vinca Removal Questions Answered

Will vinegar kill vinca vine?

Household vinegar is rarely effective on established vinca. It might burn the top growth, but it won’t affect the deep roots, allowing the plant to quickly resprout. Commercial horticultural vinegar is stronger but still may not provide a complete kill and can be hazardous to use.

How deep do vinca roots go?

Vinca’s main root system is typically in the top 6-12 inches of soil, but individual roots can go much deeper, especially in loose or sandy soil. This is why pulling must be done carefully to get as much of the root network as possible.

Is periwinkle hard to get rid of?

Yes, periwinkle (vinca) is notoriously difficult to eradicate due to its vining habit, waxy leaves that shed herbicides, and its ability to regrow from small root fragments. Persistence and the correct methods are essential.

What is the best time of year to kill vinca?

The optimal time is late summer to early fall. The plant is actively storing energy in its roots for winter, so it will more readily transport systemic herbicides down to the root system. Spring applications are less effective as the plant’s sap flow is upward.

Can I dig it out with a machine?

For very large areas, using a small excavator or skid-steer to remove the top layer of soil and roots is an option. However, this is drastic, expensive, and disturbs the entire soil ecosystem. It also requires proper disposal of the contaminated soil.

Removing vinca vine is a test of patience, but with a clear plan and consistent effort, you can win. Start by assessing the size of your infestation, choose your primary method, and commit to the long haul. Your garden—and the plants you actually want to grow—will thank you for it.