If you’re looking for how to kill Snow on the Mountain, you’ve likely found this attractive plant has turned into an aggressive invader. Also known as goutweed or bishop’s weed, its charming variegated leaves hide a relentless nature that can quickly overtake gardens and lawns.
This perennial spreads primarily through underground rhizomes, forming dense mats that choke out other plants. A single small piece of root left in the soil can regrow, making eradication a significant challenge. Understanding its biology is the first step to winning the battle.
How to Kill Snow on the Mountain
Successfully removing this weed requires a persistent, multi-pronged strategy. There is no single magic bullet, but by combining methods, you can reclaim your garden. Your approach will depend on the infestation’s size, your garden’s location, and whether you prefer organic or chemical solutions.
Manual Removal: Digging It Out
For small, new patches, careful digging is your best first option. This is a physical job, but done correctly, it can be effective. You’ll need a few key tools: a sharp spade or garden fork, a tarp, and patience.
- Water the area thoroughly the day before to soften the soil.
- Use your spade to dig a wide perimeter around the patch, going at least 12 inches deep to get below the root system.
- Lift the entire clump onto the tarp, being careful not to drop any root fragments.
- Gently sift through the displaced soil by hand to remove any broken rhizomes you missed.
Disposal is critical. Never compost Snow on the Mountain. Bag all plant material, including roots and stems, in heavy-duty black plastic bags. Seal them and leave them in direct sun for a full season to ensure everything is dead before disposing with your regular trash.
Smothering: Cutting Off Light and Air
Smothering, or solarization, is an excellent non-chemical method for larger areas. It works by depriving the plants of light and, when combined with the sun’s heat, cooking the roots. This process takes time but is very effective if done thoroughly.
- Mow or cut the foliage as close to the ground as possible.
- Water the area deeply to stimulate root growth (making them more vulnerable).
- Cover the entire infested zone with a solid barrier. Overlapping cardboard or 6-mil black plastic sheeting are the best choices.
- Secure the edges with rocks, soil, or landscape staples to prevent any light exposure.
- Leave the covering in place for at least one full growing season, preferably two.
Check periodically for any shoots that might find a seam. After removing the cover, you can plant the area with dense, aggressive ground covers to prevent a resurgence.
Using Herbicides: A Chemical Approach
For severe, widespread infestations, herbicides may be the most practical solution. Systemic glyphosate-based herbicides are often recommended because they are absorbed by the leaves and travel to the roots. Always choose a calm, dry day and follow the product label instructions exactly.
- Apply in late spring or early fall when the plant is actively growing and sending nutrients to its roots.
- Use a sponge or brush to paint the herbicide directly onto the leaves to minimize impact on nearby desirable plants.
- You may need 2-3 applications, spaced a few weeks apart, to fully kill the root network.
- Never spray on windy days, and consider using a cardboard shield to protect other plants.
Remember that chemical control is a long-term commitment. Even after a successful application, you must monitor the area for several years for any new sprouts. Combining herbicide use with smothering can yield the best results.
Preventing Regrowth and Reinfestation
Your work isn’t done after the initial removal. Vigilance is key for the next few seasons. Snow on the Mountain can lie dormant and reappear when you least expect it.
- Inspect the area monthly, especially in spring and fall. Pull any new shoots immediately, ensuring you get the attached root piece.
- Plant the cleared area densely with native shrubs, perennials, or turf grass. A thick planting leaves no room for the weed to re-establish.
- Avoid disturbing the soil deeply in the treated area, as this can bring dormant seeds or root fragments to the surface.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Many well-intentioned efforts fail because of a few key errors. Knowing what not to do is just as important as knowing the right steps.
- Tilling or Rototilling: This chops the rhizomes into countless pieces, each of which can grow into a new plant, making the infestation much worse.
- Incomplete Removal: Leaving even tiny root fragments in the soil guarantees the plant will return.
- Improper Disposal: Tossing pulled plants into a compost pile or brush pile simply relocates the problem.
- Giving Up Too Soon: This is a multi-year battle. One season of effort is rarely enough to achieve full control.
FAQs About Removing Snow on the Mountain
What is the fastest way to get rid of Snow on the Mountain?
For immediate results on a small patch, careful and complete digging is fastest. For larger areas, a combination of cutting and smothering or targeted herbicide application is most efficient, though it still requires time.
Will vinegar kill Snow on the Mountain?
Household vinegar may burn back the top growth, but it rarely kills the deep root system. The plant will typically regrow from the roots, so vinegar is not a reliable long-term solution.
How deep do the roots go?
The rhizome network typically resides in the top 6-12 inches of soil, but it can go deeper in loose, rich earth. That’s why shallow digging is ineffective.
Can I cover it with mulch instead of plastic?
Organic mulch alone is not sufficient. The plant will push right through it. You must use a light-blocking barrier like cardboard or plastic underneath any mulch for the smothering technique to work.
What should I plant after removal to keep it from coming back?
Choose vigorous, spreading plants that form a thick canopy. For sun, consider creeping phlox, vinca minor, or dense ornamental grasses. For shade, hostas, ferns, or lamium can be good choices to fill the space.
Eradicating Snow on the Mountain demands patience and consistency. By choosing the right method for your situation, avoiding common pitfalls, and committing to long-term monitoring, you can finally eliminate this persistent weed from your landscape. The key is to stay persistent and not get discouraged by setbacks, as they are a normal part of the process.