Keeping your zero-turn mower in top shape means you’ll sometimes need to get underneath it. Whether you’re changing blades, cleaning the deck, or checking the spindles, knowing how to jack up a zero turn mower is the essential first step. Doing it safely protects both you and your expensive machine from damage. This guide will walk you through the safest, most effective methods, ensuring you can perform maintenance with confidence.
Let’s start by talking safety. This is the most important part, so please don’t skip it. A zero-turn mower is heavy, often weighing over 500 pounds, and it’s not stable like a car. If it falls, it can cause serious injury or worse. Always work on a flat, level, and hard surface like a concrete driveway or garage floor. Grass or gravel can shift and cause the mower or jack to sink. Before you start, make sure the mower is completely off, the parking brake is engaged, and the key is removed. Also, disconnect the spark plug wire to prevent any accidental starting. It’s a simple step that saves lives.
You’ll also need the right tools. Using a car jack or a flimsy bottle jack is a bad idea. They aren’t designed for the mower’s weight distribution and can slip. Here’s what we recommend:
* A dedicated lawn mower jack or a heavy-duty hydraulic motorcycle jack. These have a wide, stable base and a low profile to slide under the mower easily.
* A pair of heavy-duty jack stands. Never, ever rely on just the jack to hold the mower up while you work. Jacks can fail.
* Wheel chocks or sturdy blocks of wood to place against the wheels that will remain on the ground.
* A piece of plywood or a thick, solid board to distribute weight if you’re working on asphalt (which can soften on hot days).
How to Jack Up a Zero Turn Mower
There are two main approaches: lifting the entire front or rear end, and lifting just one side. The method you choose depends on the maintenance task. We’ll cover both.
Method 1: Lifting the Entire Front End
This is best for servicing the front wheels, steering components, or for gaining access to the underside of the mower deck from the front. Here’s how to do it step-by-step.
First, prepare the mower. Park it on your level surface, turn it off, engage the parking brake, and remove the key. Disconnect the spark plug wire. Then, place your wheel chocks or wood blocks firmly against the rear tires. This prevents any backward rolling.
Now, position your jack. Slide the low-profile mower jack or motorcycle jack carefully under the front frame of the mower. You must find a solid, structural point. Never jack from the mower deck itself, the axle, or any plastic components. Look for the main steel crossmember that connects the two front wheels. This is the strongest point. If you’re unsure, consult your owner’s manual—it often shows the correct lift points.
Once the jack is centered under this strong point, begin lifting. Pump the jack handle slowly and smoothly. Watch carefully as the mower’s front wheels leave the ground. Lift only as high as you need to. A few inches is often enough for blade work. The mower will be tippy at this point, so don’t bump it.
The critical next step is securing it. With the front end lifted, immediately slide your jack stands under the mower frame on each side. Again, use solid frame points, not the deck. Lower the hydraulic jack slowly until the mower’s weight rests entirely on the jack stands. The jack can remain in place as a secondary safety measure, but the stands are your primary support. Give the mower a gentle shake test to ensure it’s stable before going underneath.
Method 2: Lifting the Entire Rear End
You’ll use this method for servicing the transmission, rear wheels, or drive belt. The process is similar but with key differences due to the weight and components at the back.
Preparation is identical: level ground, parking brake on, key out, spark plug disconnected. This time, chock the front wheels securely.
Finding the lift point is crucial. Do not jack under the transaxles or the thin metal fenders. You need to locate the solid rear frame. On many mowers, the best point is the heavy steel crossmember between the two rear wheels, just ahead of the transaxles. If your mower has a hitch plate, that can sometimes be a suitable point if it’s firmly attached to the frame.
Carefully position your jack under this central rear point. Lift slowly. The rear end is heavier, especially with fuel and a battery, so ensure your jack is rated for the weight. Lift just until the rear tires clear the ground.
Don’t forget to support it. Place your jack stands under the solid rear axle housing or the reinforced parts of the frame near the wheels. Lower the mower onto the stands. Perform your shake test for stability. Remember, the parking brake only locks the rear wheels, so with them off the ground, the mower could roll if the front chocks fail—so double-check those front chocks.
Method 3: Lifting One Side of the Mower
This is a very common technique for blade removal and deck cleaning, as it provides excellent access to one side at a time. It’s often safer than trying to lift the entire heavy machine high.
Start by positioning the mower. Turn the steering levers so the wheels on the side you want to lift are pointed straight forward. This creates a more stable base. Chock both wheels on the opposite side. For example, if lifting the left side, chock the right front and right rear wheels.
Now, find the side lift point. Look for the main frame rail that runs along the side of the mower. You may need to jack from a point just behind the front wheel or just ahead of the rear wheel, depending on your mower’s design. Avoid the deck hanger brackets.
Place your jack under this side frame point. Lift steadily. You’ll see both the front and rear wheels on that side rise together. Lift only as high as necessary to slide a jack stand under the same side frame rail. Lower the mower onto the stand. For extra safety, you can place a second stand under the frame further along on the same side. The mower will be at a significant angle, so ensure everything on the opposite side is chocked perfectly.
Essential Safety Checks Before Working Underneath
Before you crawl under, do these final checks. Verify the jack stands are on a hard, level surface and fully engaged. Ensure the mower’s weight is squarely on the stands, not the jack. One more time, confirm the spark plug wire is disconnected. Keep tools and other people away from the area. Never, under any circumstances, get under a mower supported only by a jack.
Step-by-Step: Changing Blades Using the One-Side Lift Method
Let’s apply this knowledge to a common task. Here’s how you’d safely change your mower blades.
1. Gather Tools: You’ll need your jack, jack stands, wheel chocks, a block of wood, a socket wrench with the correct size socket (often ½”, ⅝”, or 15/16”), and new, balanced blades.
2. Prepare the Mower: Park on level concrete, shut off, engage brake, remove key. Disconnect the spark plug wire.
3. Lift One Side: Using Method 3 above, lift and secure the left side of the mower. Chock the right wheels well.
4. Block the Blade: Before loosening the blade bolt, place a thick block of wood between the blade and the deck housing. This stops the blade from spinning when you apply force.
5. Remove the Old Blade: Use your socket wrench to turn the blade bolt counterclockwise (lefty-loosey). It’s often very tight, so a long breaker bar can help. Note the orientation of the old blade—the cutting edge usually faces the deck.
6. Install the New Blade: Slide the new blade onto the spindle, ensuring it’s facing the correct direction. The blade’s part number or brand name is typically stamped on the side that should face up toward the deck. Hand-tighten the new bolt first.
7. Tighten Securely: Use your wrench to tighten the bolt firmly, following your mower’s torque specification if you have it. The block of wood will again prevent spinning.
8. Lower and Repeat: Carefully lower that side of the mower. Move your chocks, then repeat the entire process to lift the right side and change the other blade(s).
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Even experienced folks can make errors. Here’s what to watch out for. Never use cinder blocks or concrete blocks as jack stands—they can crack and shatter without warning. Don’t jack on the mower deck; it’s not structural and can bend. Avoid lifting only by the hydraulic jack without stands; a seal can leak and drop the mower. Don’t forget to chock the wheels on the ground; gravity is always working. Rushing the process is a recipe for a accident. Take your time.
Choosing the Right Jack for Your Zero-Turn
Investing in the right tool makes this job easy and safe. A dedicated zero-turn mower jack is ideal. They have a wide, padded cradle and a long handle for easy pumping. A good quality hydraulic motorcycle/ATV jack is a versatile alternative. Look for one with a minimum 1,000-pound capacity. A low-profile floor jack can work for some mowers if you have solid wood blocks to build a stable ramp for the mower to roll onto, giving you clearance to slide the jack under. Avoid scissor jacks or small bottle jacks; they are too unstable.
Long-Term Maintenance Tips After Lifting
Once your mower is up, you might notice other things. Take the opportunity to check for loose bolts on the deck spindles and brackets. Look for worn belts or cracks in the deck. Clean out any caked-on grass clippings, which hold moisture and cause rust. A quick inspection while you’re under there can prevent bigger problems later.
FAQ Section
Q: Can I use car ramps for a zero turn mower?
A: It’s generally not recommended. Zero-turn mowers have a low clearance and a different wheelbase than cars. Getting them onto ramps safely is tricky, and they can easily tip or roll off. Jacks and stands offer more control and safety.
Q: How high do I need to lift my mower to change the blades?
A: You only need a few inches of clearance—just enough to fit your hand and a wrench comfortably between the blade and the ground. Over-lifting just increases instability.
Q: Is it safe to lift a zero turn by the deck?
A: No, it is not safe. The deck is designed to cut grass, not support the mower’s entire weight. Jacking from the deck can bend the hanger brackets or the deck itself, leading to an uneven cut and potential failure.
Q: What if my mower doesn’t have an obvious jack point?
A: Always refer to your owner’s manual first. If it’s unavailable, look for the heaviest, welded steel parts of the frame near the wheels. When in doubt, contact the mower manufacturer or a local dealer for advice. It’s better to be sure.
Q: Can I leave my zero-turn on the jack stands for a few days?
A: While jack stands are designed for support, it’s best not to leave any vehicle supported for extended periods if you can avoid it. For long-term storage, keep the mower on its wheels on a level surface. The constant pressure on the stands and mower frame isn’t ideal for weeks on end.
Knowing how to jack up a zero turn mower properly is a fundamental skill for any owner. It opens the door to performing your own routine maintenance, saving you money and downtime. By following these steps—prioritizing safety, using the right tools, and choosing the correct lifting method—you can tackle tasks like blade sharpening, deck cleaning, and belt inspections with assurance. Remember, taking those extra few minutes to chock wheels and set jack stands isn’t just a step in the process; it’s the most important part. Now you’re ready to keep your mower running smoothly for seasons to come.