How To Grow Your Own Peanuts

Have you ever thought about how to grow your own peanuts? It’s a fun and surprisingly simple project that turns your garden into a source of fresh, homegrown legumes. Unlike many garden plants, peanuts develop their pods underground, offering a unique and rewarding harvest. With a little know-how, you can enjoy the process from planting to roasting.

This guide walks you through everything you need. We’ll cover choosing the right seeds, preparing your soil, and the simple care these plants require. You’ll learn the special technique needed for a good harvest. Let’s get started on your peanut growing adventure.

Growing peanuts is different from growing tree nuts. They are a warm-season annual, related to peas and beans. The most fascinating part is their growth habit called “pegging.” After flowering, a stalk (called a peg) grows down from the plant and pushes the developing nut into the soil where it matures. This means loose, well-drained soil is absolutely key.

What You’ll Need to Begin

Getting started is straightforward. You don’t need fancy equipment, just a few basics:

Raw, uncooked peanuts: You must use peanuts meant for planting, bought from a garden center. Grocery store nuts are often roasted or treated and will not sprout.
A sunny spot: Peanuts need full sun—at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight daily.
Loose, sandy soil: Heavy clay is a problem. If your soil is dense, you’ll need to amend it.
Space: Plants need room to spread. They can also be grown in large containers.
Patience: The growing season is long, typically 100 to 130 frost-free days.

Choosing the Right Peanut Variety

There are four main types of peanuts. Some are better for certain climates or uses.

Runner: Commonly used for peanut butter. They have a uniform kernel size and yield well.
Virginia: The classic “ballpark” peanut. They produce large kernels and are great for roasting.
Spanish: Smaller kernels with a higher oil content, often used in candy. They have a shorter growing season.
Valencia: Typically have three or more small kernels per shell and are very sweet. They mature the fastest.

For beginners, a Valencia or Spanish type is often recommended because of there shorter growing season requirement.

Preparing Your Garden Bed

Soil preparation is the most important step for success. Since the pegs must penetrate the soil easily, it needs to be loose and crumbly.

Choose a site with full sun.
Loosen the soil to a depth of at least 10 inches. Break up any large clumps.
Mix in several inches of compost or well-rotted manure. If your soil is heavy clay, also add coarse sand or peat moss to improve drainage.
Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers. Peanuts, like other legumes, fix their own nitrogen from the air.

Planting Your Peanut Seeds

You must wait until all danger of frost has passed and the soil is warm—at least 65°F (18°C). A good rule is to plant around the same time you would plant beans.

Shell the peanuts carefully, leaving the brown skin on the kernel intact.
Plant the kernels 1 to 2 inches deep, with the pointed end facing down.
Space them about 10 inches apart in rows. Space rows about 2 to 3 feet apart, as plants will spread.
Water gently after planting.

Seeds should germinate in about 10 to 15 days. You can also start seeds indoors in peat pots 4-6 weeks before the last frost to get a head start.

Caring for Your Peanut Plants

Once they’re up, peanut plants are relatively low-maintenance. They need consistent care, especially during two critical phases: flowering and pegging.

Watering and Feeding

Peanuts need about 1 inch of water per week. The key is consistent moisture, especially during flowering and pegging. Avoid letting the soil dry out completely, but also ensure it’s not waterlogged. Reduce watering as the pods near maturity in late summer. A light application of a low-nitrogen, high-phosphorus and -potassium fertilizer at planting is usually sufficient.

The Crucial “Hilling” Step

This is the unique step for peanuts. When the plants are about 12 inches tall and begin to flower, gently hill loose soil or compost around the base of the plant, similar to how you would hill potatoes. This gives the pegs a soft, easy path to enter the ground where the peanuts will form. Some gardeners use a mulch of straw or leaves instead, which works just as well.

Weeding and Pest Control

Keep the area weed-free, especially early on. Use shallow cultivation to avoid damaging the shallow roots and pegs. Peanuts have few serious pest problems. Leaf spots can occur; if they do, use an organic fungicide. Squirrels and chipmunks may be attracted to the developing nuts later in the season.

Harvesting and Curing Your Crop

Knowing when to harvest is crucial. The plants won’t give obvious signs like tomatoes or peppers. Harvest typically occurs in late summer or early fall, before the first frost.

Signs of Maturity

The leaves begin to turn yellow.
Pull up a test plant. The shells should have a veined, net-like pattern on the inside, and the kernels should nearly fill the pods.

The Harvest Process

Use a garden fork to carefully loosen the soil around the entire plant.
Lift the whole plant, shaking off excess soil. The peanuts will be clinging to the roots.
Shake of the remaining soil gently, keeping the peanuts attached.

Curing for Storage

Peanuts must be cured (dried) properly to store well and develop good flavor.

Hang the whole plants in a warm, dry, well-ventilated place out of direct sun (like a garage or shed) for about two to three weeks.
Once the shells are dry and papery, remove the peanuts from the vines.
Continue to dry the shelled nuts in a single layer for another week or two.
Store raw, in-shell peanuts in mesh bags in a cool, dry place. They can last for several months. For longer storage, you can freeze them.

Common Problems and Solutions

Seeds don’t sprout: Likely caused by cold, wet soil or using treated nuts. Always wait for warm soil and use planting seeds.
Yellow leaves: Could be overwatering, poor drainage, or a nutrient deficiency. Check soil moisture and ensure good drainage.
Few or no peanuts: This often happens if the soil was too hard for the pegs to penetrate, or if the plants were not hilled/mulched after flowering.
Rotted pods: A sign of waterlogged soil. Improve drainage for the next season.

FAQ: Your Peanut Growing Questions Answered

Can I grow peanuts from store-bought nuts?

It’s not recommended. Most commercial peanuts are roasted, boiled, or treated for long shelf-life, which kills the seed’s embryo. Always buy certified raw planting peanuts from a seed supplier.

How long does it take to grow peanuts?

From planting to harvest, most varieties need 100 to 130 frost-free days. Faster-maturing types like Valencia need about 90-100 days.

Can I grow peanuts in pots or containers?

Yes! Choose a large container (at least 12-18 inches deep and wide) with excellent drainage. Use a light potting mix and be diligent with watering. The hilling step is even more important in containers; add extra mix as the plants grow.

Do peanuts need a lot of fertilizer?

No. Too much nitrogen, in particular, will cause lush leafy growth at the expense of nut production. They fix their own nitrogen. A balanced, light feeding at planting is usually enough.

Why did my plants flower but not produce peanuts?

This is almost always due to the pegs being unable to penetrate the soil. The soil must be very loose and you must hill or mulch around the plants after flowering begins.

Growing your own peanuts is a fantastic gardening project that combines simplicity with a big payoff. The sight of pulling up your first plant to find clusters of fresh peanuts is truly special. With the right soil, a sunny spot, and attention to the pegging process, you’ll be well on your way to a successful homegrown harvest. Give it a try this season—you might just find a new favorite garden crop.