How To Grow Mini Watermelons

If you want to grow your own sweet, personal-sized fruits, learning how to grow mini watermelons is a perfect project. These compact vines are ideal for small gardens, patios, and even containers, making fresh, homegrown melons accessible to almost everyone.

Mini watermelons, often called “personal” or “icebox” types, mature much faster than their larger cousins. They typically weigh between 2 to 7 pounds. With the right care, you can enjoy a harvest of juicy, flavorful melons right from your backyard or balcony.

Success with mini watermelons starts with understanding their basic needs. They are warm-season plants that demand plenty of sun and heat. Don’t rush to plant them outdoors; cold soil and air will stunt their growth or kill them.

Let’s break down the process into simple, manageable steps.

Choosing the Right Variety

Your first step is to pick a variety that suits your climate and space. Some popular and reliable mini watermelon varieties include:

Sugar Baby: The classic. Deep red flesh, dark green rind, and about 6-10 pounds.
Golden Midget: Turns yellow when ripe! Pink flesh and only grows to about 3 pounds.
Mickylee (Moon & Stars): Sweet, red flesh with a unique speckled skin pattern.
Garden Baby: A great hybrid known for its disease resistance and consistent yields.

Check your seed packet for the “days to maturity.” This tells you how long from planting until harvest. In cooler climates, choose a variety with a shorter maturity period.

When and Where to Plant

Timing is everything. You must wait until all danger of frost has passed and the soil has warmed up to at least 70°F. For most regions, this is late spring or early summer.

Sunlight: Choose the sunniest spot in your garden. They need a minimum of 6-8 hours of direct sun daily.
Soil: Watermelons prefer loose, well-draining soil rich in organic matter. Sandy loam is ideal. Heavy clay soil can be improved with lots of compost.
Space: Even mini varieties need room. Plan for vines to spread 6-8 feet. You can train them up a sturdy trellis to save space, which is a great option for vertical gardening.

Planting Your Seeds or Seedlings

You can start seeds indoors 2-3 weeks before your last frost date. Use biodegradable pots to avoid disturbing the roots during transplant. Sow seeds ½ inch deep.

For direct sowing outdoors, plant seeds 1 inch deep in small mounds or hills. This improves drainage and warms the soil faster. Space mounds about 3 feet apart for trellised plants, or 6 feet apart for ground vines.

Create a mound of soil about 12 inches wide and 4 inches high.
Plant 4-5 seeds per mound, spacing them a few inches apart.
Once seedlings have two sets of true leaves, thin them to the 2-3 strongest plants per mound.

Essential Care and Maintenance

Consistent care is key to a healthy harvest. Here’s what your plants will need from you.

Watering Wisely

Watermelons need deep, consistent watering, especially during fruit set and growth. Aim for 1-2 inches of water per week. The goal is to keep the soil evenly moist but never soggy.

A soaker hose or drip irrigation is best. It delivers water directly to the roots and keeps the leaves dry, preventing fungal diseases. Reduce watering as the fruits mature to concentrate sugars and improve flavor.

Feeding Your Plants

Start with soil amended with compost. When vines begin to run, feed them with a balanced, all-purpose fertilizer. When flowers appear and fruits start to form, switch to a fertilizer lower in nitrogen and higher in phosphorus and potassium. This encourages fruiting over leafy growth.

Over-fertilizing, especially with nitrogen, can result in huge vines with few fruits. Always follow the instructions on your fertilizer package.

Pollination Tips

Watermelons produce separate male and female flowers. Bees are essential for transferring pollen. You’ll see female flowers by the small, bulbous fruit at their base.

If bee activity is low, you can hand-pollinate. Simply pick a male flower, remove its petals, and gently brush the pollen-covered anther against the stigma in the center of the female flower. Do this in the morning when flowers are open.

Weeding and Mulching

Keep the area around your plants weed-free, especially when they are young. Weeds compete for water and nutrients. Once vines spread, they will shade out many weeds themselves.

Applying a layer of straw or black plastic mulch after planting is a game-changer. It suppresses weeds, retains soil moisture, and most importantly, keeps the soil warm. Warm soil means happier watermelon plants.

Harvesting Your Mini Watermelons

This is the most exciting part! Harvesting at the right time is crucial for sweetness. Here are the signs a mini watermelon is ripe:

The Tendril Dries: Look for the curly tendril on the stem opposite the fruit. When it turns brown and dries up, the melon is likely ripe.
Field Spot Color: The spot where the melon rests on the ground changes from white to a creamy yellow.
Sound Test: Thump it. A ripe watermelon will have a deep, hollow sound. An unripe one sounds tight and metallic.
Skin Sheen: The skin loses its shiny, bright appearance and becomes dull.

Use a sharp knife or pruners to cut the stem, leaving an inch or two attached to the fruit. Don’t pull or twist it off the vine.

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Even with great care, you might encounter a few issues. Here’s how to handle them.

Few or No Fruits: Usually due to poor pollination. Encourage bees or try hand-pollinating. To much nitrogen fertilizer can also be the culprit.
Blossom End Rot: A dark, leathery spot on the bottom of the fruit caused by calcium deficiency, often due to irregular watering. Maintain consistent soil moisture.
Powdery Mildew: White powdery spots on leaves. Improve air circulation, water at the soil level, and use an organic fungicide if needed.
Cucumber Beetles: These pests can spread disease. Use row covers when plants are young, and remove them when flowers appear for pollination.

Growing in Containers

Yes, you can grow mini watermelons in pots! Choose a large container—at least 10 gallons with excellent drainage. Use a high-quality potting mix, not garden soil. A compact or “bush” variety is best for this method.

Container plants dry out faster, so check moisture daily. You will need to provide a strong trellis for the vines to climb. Support developing fruits with slings made from cloth or netting tied to the trellis.

FAQ: Your Mini Watermelon Questions Answered

How long does it take to grow a mini watermelon?

Most mini watermelon varieties mature in 70 to 85 days from transplanting. Always check the “days to maturity” on your seed packet for the specific timeline.

Can I grow them from store-bought watermelon seeds?

You can, but it’s not recommended. Many commercial melons are hybrids. Seeds from them may not produce fruit true to the parent, or may be sterile. It’s better to buy seeds from a reputable garden supplier.

How many mini watermelons will one plant produce?

A healthy mini watermelon plant can produce 2 to 4 fruits per vine. With optimal conditions and good care, you might even get a few more.

Why are my baby watermelons turning yellow and falling off?

This is often due to incomplete pollination. If the female flower isn’t fully pollinated, the young fruit will abort. Make sure bees can access your plants or try hand-pollinating to improve fruit set.

What’s the best way to store harvested watermelons?

Whole, uncut watermelons can be stored at room temperature for about a week. For longer storage (up to 2-3 weeks), place them in the refrigerator. Once cut, wrap the pieces tightly in plastic and refrigerate for up to 4 days.

Growing mini watermelons is a rewarding summer project. With some sunshine, consistent care, and a little patience, you’ll be enjoying the incredible taste of a homegrown melon that you nurtured yourself. There’s nothing quite like it.