How To Grow Citrus Trees

If you’ve ever dreamed of picking sun-warmed fruit from your own backyard, learning how to grow citrus trees is a fantastic place to start. These beautiful plants offer fragrant blooms, glossy evergreen leaves, and the ultimate reward of homegrown fruit, and with the right guidance, even beginners can find success.

Growing citrus is all about mimicking their preferred conditions: plenty of sun, well-drained soil, and protection from extreme cold. Whether you plant them in the ground or in containers, understanding these core needs is the first step toward a healthy harvest.

Choosing the Right Citrus Tree for You

Your local climate is the biggest factor in choosing a tree. Citrus varieties have different cold tolerances, so picking one suited to your area is crucial.

For Cooler Climates (Potentially in Ground): Consider hardy varieties like kumquats, Meyer lemons, or Satsuma mandarins. These can often handle brief dips into the 20s (°F) with protection.
For Warm Climates (In Ground): You have more options! Navel oranges, grapefruits, limes, and most lemons thrive in frost-free regions.
For Everyone (In Containers): Dwarf or semi-dwarf trees are perfect for pots. They can be moved to a sunny spot in summer and a protected area like a garage in winter, making citrus possible anywhere.

Always check with a local nursery for the best varieties that perform well in your specific region. They’ll have trees grafted onto rootstock suited to your soil and climate.

The Perfect Planting Site and Soil

Citrus trees demand excellent drainage. They simply will not tolerate “wet feet,” or roots sitting in soggy soil. This is the most common cause of failure for new growers.

Sunlight: Choose the sunniest spot in your yard—at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sun daily. More sun equals sweeter fruit.
Soil: Sandy loam is ideal. If you have heavy clay soil, you must amend it. For in-ground planting, dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper. Mix the native soil with 25-50% compost or well-rotted manure to improve drainage and fertility.
For Containers: Use a high-quality, lightweight potting mix designed for citrus or palms. Ensure the pot has large drainage holes. A 15-gallon pot is a good starting size for a dwarf tree.

Step-by-Step Planting Guide

Water the tree in its nursery pot thoroughly a few hours before planting.
Gently remove the tree from its container, teasing out any tightly circling roots.
Place the tree in the hole or pot so the top of the root ball is level with or slightly above the surrounding soil. Planting too deep can cause root rot.
Backfill with your soil mixture, firming gently to remove air pockets.
Create a shallow watering basin around the tree. Water deeply immediately after planting to settle the soil.
Apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch (like wood chips) around the base, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk to prevent disease.

Watering and Feeding Your Tree

Consistency is key, especially in the first few years as the tree establishes its root system.

Watering: Deep, infrequent watering is better than frequent sprinkles. For new trees, water 2-3 times per week. For established trees, water when the top 2-3 inches of soil feel dry. In containers, check moisture more frequently—they dry out faster.
Fertilizing: Citrus are heavy feeders. Use a fertilizer specifically formulated for citrus or an acidic-loving plant. These contain the right balance of nitrogen, micronutrients like iron and zinc, which citrus need. Apply according to label directions, typically in late winter, late spring, and early fall. Avoid fertilizing in late autumn or winter when the tree is not actively growing.

A common sign of a nutrient issue is yellowing leaves with green veins. This often indicates an iron deficiency, usually caused by soil that is not acidic enough or poor drainage.

Pruning and Shaping for Health

Citrus trees require minimal pruning compared to other fruit trees. The main goals are to remove dead or diseased wood, improve air circulation, and shape the tree for easy harvesting.

When to Prune: The best time is after the danger of frost has passed but before the summer heat, typically in late winter or early spring.
How to Prune: Focus on removing any branches that are crossing or rubbing, any suckers growing from below the graft union (the knobby bump near the base), and any dead or damaged wood. Always use clean, sharp pruning shears.
For container trees, you may need to prune more often to maintain a manageable size. Light pruning can be done any time of year if necessary.

Managing Pests and Problems

Healthy trees are more resistant to pests, but it’s good to know what to look for. Common citrus pests include aphids, scale, spider mites, and leafminers.

Aphids & Scale: You can often control these with a strong spray of water from the hose or by applying horticultural oil (like neem oil) according to directions.
Leafminers: These create squiggly lines on new leaves. While unsightly, they rarely harm mature trees. Prune off and destroy affected leaves if the infestation is small.
Disease Prevention: The best defense is good care. Avoid overhead watering which can promote fungal diseases. Ensure good air flow through the canopy with proper pruning.

If you see ants running up and down the trunk, they are often “farming” sap-sucking pests like aphids. Controlling the ants with a sticky barrier on the trunk can help.

Overwintering and Cold Protection

Sudden cold snaps are the enemy of citrus. If you live in a marginal climate, be prepared to protect your investment.

For In-Ground Trees: Have frost cloth, burlap, or blankets ready. When a freeze is forecast, drape the material over the tree, ensuring it reaches the ground to trap heat from the soil. Stringing old-fashioned incandescent Christmas lights (not LEDs) in the branches can provide a few extra degrees of warmth under the cover. Water the soil deeply before a freeze, as moist soil retains heat better.
For Potted Trees: Move them to a protected location like a garage, shed, or sunny window before the first hard frost. The tree will likely go semi-dormant; water only when the soil is quite dry.

Harvesting Your Homegrown Citrus

Patience is essential! Citrus fruit often takes many months to ripen, and they do not continue to sweeten after picking. The best way to know if fruit is ready is to taste one.

Color is Not Always a Reliable Indicator. Some varieties, like Meyer lemons, may be ripe when still slightly greenish-yellow.
Fruit should feel heavy for its size and have a slight give when gently squeezed.
Use pruning shears or a knife to cut the fruit from the tree, leaving a small piece of stem attached. Pulling fruit can damage the branch.

Remember, a tree often holds ripe fruit and new blossoms at the same time, which is part of there charm. Don’t be afraid to harvest and enjoy the fruits of your labor.

FAQ for Beginner Citrus Growers

Why are the leaves on my citrus tree turning yellow?

Yellow leaves can have several causes. The most common are overwatering or poor drainage, a nutrient deficiency (often nitrogen or iron), or cold temperatures. Check your watering habits and soil condition first.

How long does it take for a young citrus tree to bear fruit?

It depends on the variety and whether you bought a grafted tree. Most grafted trees from a nursery will begin to produce a small crop within 2-3 years if given proper care. Trees grown from seed can take 7-10 years or more, and the fruit may not be true to type.

Can I grow a lemon tree from a seed from a grocery store fruit?

You can grow a plant from the seed, but it likely won’t produce fruit for many years, and the fruit quality is unpredictable. For reliable fruit, it’s best to purchase a grafted tree of a known variety.

What is the best citrus tree for growing in a pot?

Improved Meyer Lemon is a classic and reliable choice for containers. Dwarf varieties of limes (like Persian or Key lime), kumquats, and calamondins are also excellent and prolific in pots.

How often should I repot my container citrus tree?

Repot every 3-4 years, or when you see roots circling the bottom of the pot. Move up to a container only 2-4 inches wider in diameter. Refreshing the top few inches of soil annually can help maintain nutrients.

Starting your citrus journey is incredibly rewarding. By focusing on the fundamentals of sun, soil, water, and food, you’ll be well on your way to enjoying your own homegrown, zesty harvest for years to come. Pay close attention to your tree’s signals, and don’t hesitate to ask for advice from fellow gardeners in your area—they’re a wealth of localized knowledge.