How To Get Rid Of Prairie Dogs

If you’re dealing with burrows and damaged plants, you’re probably searching for how to get rid of prairie dogs. These social rodents can quickly turn a tidy yard or field into a network of holes, making humane removal a top priority for many property owners.

This guide covers effective, responsible methods. We’ll focus on strategies that resolve the problem without causing unnecessary harm, from deterrents to exclusion.

Successfully managing prairie dogs requires a mix of understanding, patience, and the right tactics. A single approach rarely works forever. The most lasting solutions combine making your land less attractive with physically preventing their return.

Remember, these are wildlife species often protected by local laws. Always check regulations with your state’s wildlife agency before starting any control program.

Why Prairie Dogs Become a Problem

Prairie dogs aren’t inherently “bad.” They’re just animals seeking food and shelter. Problems arise when their goals clash with yours.

Their extensive burrow systems can undermine foundations, damage irrigation ditches, and create tripping hazards for livestock. They also consume large amounts of vegetation, stripping gardens and competing with livestock for forage.

Property Damage: Burrows can damage lawn mowers, agricultural equipment, and even cause structural settling.
Landscape Loss: They eat grasses, flowers, and garden vegetables, often down to the roots.
Livestock Risk: Leg injuries to horses and cattle from stepping into holes are a major concern.

Humane Deterrents and Habitat Modification

This is your first and most important line of defense. By removing what attracts them, you encourage prairie dogs to move on naturally.

Remove Food Sources

Prairie dogs are primarily herbivores. Reducing their easy meals is key.

Keep grass mowed short regularly. They prefer taller vegetation for cover and food.
Use protective cages or raised beds for vegetable gardens.
Consider planting species they find less palatable, like lavender or salvia, around garden borders.

Use Taste and Smell Repellents

Non-toxic repellents can make your plants taste or smell unpleasant. Reapplication after rain is crucial for these to work.

Capsaicin-based sprays: Made from hot peppers, these deter browsing.
Castor oil: Applied to the soil, it can make plants taste bad and may even encourage them to leave existing burrows.
Predator urine: Fox or coyote urine granules placed near burrow entrances can create a sense of danger.

Install Physical Deterrents

Visual and auditory scare tactics can work, but prairie dogs are smart and may habituate. Rotate methods for best results.

Motion-activated sprinklers startle them and make the area feel unsafe.
Reflective tape or spinning pinwheels can create visual disturbances.
Ultrasonic repellents emit sounds unpleasant to rodents, though their effectiveness varies widely.

Exclusion: The Permanent Solution

Fencing is the most reliable way to protect a specific area, like a garden or yard, long-term. It requires an upfront effort but saves time later.

How to Install a Prairie Dog-Proof Fence

Prairie dogs are diggers and climbers. A proper fence must adress both behaviors.

Choose the right material: Use 1/4-inch or 1/2-inch hardware cloth, not chicken wire, which they can chew through.
Height: The above-ground portion should be at least 3 feet tall.
Bury the apron: This is the critical step. Bury the bottom 1-2 feet of fencing horizontally, extending outward from the base. Or, bury it vertically at least 2 feet deep, bending the bottom outward into an “L” shape.
Secure it firmly: Use sturdy posts and secure the fencing tightly to prevent squeezing underneath.

Live Trapping and Relocation

This is a hands-on, humane removal method best for small colonies. It is labor-intensive and requires you to have a legal relocation site arranged beforehand. Never relocate wildlife without permission.

Step-by-Step Trapping Guide

Check Laws: Contact your state wildlife agency for permits and regulations regarding trapping and relocation of prairie dogs.
Find a Release Site: Secure written permission from a landowner willing to accept the animals. This is often the hardest step.
Choose a Trap: Use single-door or double-door live cage traps large enough for a prairie dog. Place them near active burrow entrances.
Bait the Trap: Use sweet potato, carrots, or leafy greens. Bait the trail leading into the trap, not just the back.
Check Traps Frequently: Check at least twice daily, morning and evening, to minimize stress on captured animals. Provide shade if the trap is in sun.
Transport Carefully: Cover the trap with a blanket during transport to keep the animal calm. Release at the new site as soon as possible.

When to Call a Professional

For large infestations, or if methods haven’t worked, hiring a professional wildlife control operator is wise. They have the expertise and tools for efficient, humane removal.

They understand complex burrow systems and can ensure all animals are addressed.
Professionals are knowledgeable about local and state laws.
They can perform exclusion services at a scale that might be difficult for a homeowner.
Some professionals use specialized, humane fumigation methods as a last resort.

What Not to Do: Ineffective or Inhumane Methods

Some old-fashioned tactics are cruel, illegal, or simply don’t work.

Flooding Burrows: Often ineffective due to deep, chambered burrows and wastes water. It can also drown other beneficial wildlife.
Using Poison or Gas: Besides being inhumane, poisons can kill non-target animals (pets, birds of prey) and are heavily regulated. Most general-use poisons are illegal for prairie dog control.
Attempting to Destroy Burrows with Machinery: This is dangerous and leaves the land unusable. Surviving animals will simply rebuild.

Preventing Their Return

After removal, prevention is key. Stay vigilant.

Keep up with habitat modification—short grass, fewer attractants.
Regularly inspect your fence lines for breaches or digging attempts.
Fill old burrows once you are absolutely sure they are vacant. Use a soil mix that compacts well to discourage re-excavation.

FAQs on Prairie Dog Removal

What is the fastest way to remove prairie dogs?

For immediate, large-scale problems on agricultural land, professionals using humane fumigation is often fastest. For homeowners, a combination of fencing and trapping yields quick, lasting results for the protected area.

Are there any natural predators that help control prairie dogs?

Yes. Badgers, coyotes, foxes, and birds of prey like hawks and eagles are natural predators. Encouraging these predators by providing perches or tolerating their presence can help, but rarely solves a significant infestation on its own.

Is it legal to shoot prairie dogs?

Laws vary drastically by state, county, and land zoning. It may be legal in some rural agricultural areas but strictly prohibited in residential or urban zones. Always, always check with local authorities and your fish and wildlife department first. Safety and legality must come first.

How deep are prairie dog burrows, and why does it matter?

Burrows can be 10-15 feet deep and extend horizontally for many feet. This complex structure makes flooding or smoking them out very difficult and highlights why exclusion and deterrence are more reliable strategies.

Will they come back after I remove them?

If the habitat remains attractive—lush vegetation, soft soil—new prairie dogs from nearby colonies may move into vacant burrows. That’s why pairing removal with ongoing habitat modification and exclusion is essential for long-term control.

Can I just feed them to make them leave my garden alone?

No. Feeding them will absolutely increase their numbers and attract more from surrounding areas. It teaches them to associate your property with a free food source, making the problem much worse in the long run.

Final Thoughts on Coexistence and Control

Managing prairie dogs is about balance. Complete eradication is often neither possible nor desirable, as they are a keystone species in their ecosystem. The goal is to protect your specific property and interests.

Start with the gentlest methods: modify their habitat, use repellents, and install fencing. Progress to live trapping if needed, and don’t hesitate to call a professional for help with a large colony. By understanding their behavior and using a persistent, multi-method approach, you can reclaim your yard or garden effectively and humanely.

Remember to stay patient and consistent. It may take a few weeks to see results, but with diligence, you can find a solution that works for both you and the local wildlife.