How Long Do Tomatillos Take To Grow

If you’re planning to grow tomatillos, your first question is probably, how long do tomatillos take to grow? From planting the seed to harvesting the first fruits, you’re looking at a commitment of roughly 75 to 100 days. This timeline can vary based on your climate, the specific variety you choose, and how you start your plants. This guide walks you through every stage, giving you a clear expectaion for your garden’s schedule.

The total time from seed to harvest typically falls between 75 and 100 days. Most gardeners start seeds indoors to get a jump on the season, as tomatillos need a long, warm growing period. The “days to maturity” listed on seed packets usually counts from the day you transplant seedlings outdoors, not from the day you sow the seed indoors.

Breaking Down the Growth Timeline

Let’s look at each phase of growth and how long it usually takes. This will help you plan your gardening calendar.

Seed Starting Indoors (6-8 weeks before last frost): This phase takes about 6 to 8 weeks. You’ll sow seeds in trays and nurture them under lights until they’re strong seedlings ready for the outside world.
Transplanting & Early Growth (1-2 weeks): After hardening off for a week, seedlings go into the garden. They may seem to sit still for a week or two as they establish their roots in their new home.
Vegetative Growth (4-5 weeks): The plants will grow rapidly, becoming large and bushy. This stage is all about building a strong framework for the fruit.
Flowering & Fruit Set (2-3 weeks): Yellow blossoms appear and, with help from pollinators, develop into the iconic papery husks. This is a critical period for fruit formation.
Fruit Development to Harvest (6-8 weeks): Once the tiny fruit forms inside the husk, it takes well over a month to swell and fill the husk completely, signaling it’s time to pick.

Step 1: Starting Tomatillo Seeds Indoors

Begin 6 to 8 weeks before your last expected spring frost date. Tomatillos are heat-loving plants and cannot tolerate frost, so starting indoors is essential in most regions.

Plant the Seeds: Sow seeds ¼ inch deep in a quality seed-starting mix. Plant 2-3 seeds per cell to ensure germination.
Provide Warmth & Light: Keep the soil warm (70-80°F) for best germination, which takes 7-14 days. Once sprouts appear, move them under bright grow lights for 14-16 hours a day.
Care for Seedlings: Water when the soil surface feels dry. When seedlings get their first set of true leaves, thin to the strongest one per cell. A week before transplanting, begin to harden them off.

Step 2: Transplanting to the Garden

Transplant seedlings outdoors only after all danger of frost has passed and night temperatures consistently stay above 50°F. Tomatillos planted in cold soil will be stunted.

Spacing is Crucial: These plants become enormous. Space them at least 3 feet apart in rows 3-4 feet apart. They need good air circulation.
Sun & Soil: Choose the sunniest spot you have—at least 8 hours of direct sun. The soil should be well-draining and amended with compost.
Plant Deep: Bury the stem up to the first set of leaves, just like tomatoes. This encourages a stronger root system.

The Importance of Planting Two

This is a non-negotiable tip for tomatillos. Unlike tomatoes, tomatillos are not self-pollinating. You must plant at least two plants close to each other for sucessful cross-pollination and fruit set. A single, isolated plant will flower profusely but produce little to no fruit.

Step 3: Care During the Growing Season

Proper care ensures your plants reach maturity on schedule and produce a bountiful harvest. Neglect can delay fruit development.

Watering: Provide 1-2 inches of water per week, deeply and consistently. Inconsistent watering can lead to blossom drop or split fruit. Mulch heavily to retain moisture.
Support: Use tall, sturdy cages or stakes. The plants get heavy with fruit and will sprawl or topple over without support.
Feeding: Tomatillos are moderate feeders. Mix a balanced organic fertilizer into the soil at planting. Side-dress with compost or a fertilizer higher in phosphorus when flowering begins to support fruit production.

Step 4: Recognizing Flowering and Fruit Set

You’ll see small, yellow flowers with a brown or purple center. After pollination, the flower’s base swells into a tiny, green pod encased in a papery calyx—the husk. This husk is a key identifier; it starts small and green, expanding as the fruit grows inside it.

Step 5: How to Know When to Harvest

Harvest time is the payoff. You don’t judge ripeness by color of the fruit itself, but by the condition of the husk.

The fruit has filled out and feels firm.
The papery husk has split open, often turning from green to a tan or light brown color.
The fruit inside is bright green, purple, or yellow (depending on variety). If it’s sticky, that’s normal—it’s just the fruit’s natural coating.

If the fruit is still small and the husk is tightly wrapped, it’s not ready. If the fruit is yellow and soft, it’s overripe, though still usable for some recipes. Harvest by giving the fruit a gentle twist; it should come away easily from the stem.

Factors That Can Speed Up or Slow Down Growth

Your local conditions play a huge role in the exact timeline. Here’s what to watch for:

Temperature: Cool weather (below 55°F at night) significantly slows growth and delays flowering. Ideal growing temperatures are between 70-85°F.
Sunlight: Less than 8 hours of full sun will delay maturity and reduce yield.
Variety: Some cultivars, like ‘Toma Verde,’ mature faster (around 65 days from transplant). Others, especially large-fruited or purple varieties, may take the full 100 days or more.
Water & Nutrient Stress: Inconsistent watering or poor soil can stall the plant, putting it into survival mode instead of growth and fruiting mode.

Troubleshooting Common Delays

Is your plant taking too long? Here are common issues:

No Fruit Forming: This is almost always due to planting only one tomatillo plant. Remember, you need at least two for pollination.
Flowers Dropping: Caused by extreme heat, lack of pollination, or inconsistent watering. Ensure bees can access your plants and keep the soil evenly moist.
Stunted Plants: Often caused by planting out too early in cold soil, or by nutrient-deficient soil. Adding compost at planting time is key.

FAQ: Your Tomatillo Questions Answered

Q: Can I grow tomatillos in pots?
A: Yes, but choose a large container (at least 10 gallons) and a compact variety. You’ll still need to plant two for pollination and be vigilant about watering.

Q: Are tomatillos perennials?
A: No, they are tender annuals. They are killed by the first frost. In very warm climates, they may self-seed and act like a perennial.

Q: Why are my tomatillos so small?
A: Small fruit can result from heat stress, lack of water, or poor soil fertility. Overcrowding is another common cause, as the plants compete for resources.

Q: What’s the difference between green and purple tomatillos?
A: Purple varieties are often sweeter and take a little longer to mature. They also turn a deep violet when ripe, but you still judge harvest time by the husk splitting.

Q: How long will tomatillos produce?
A: With proper care, they will produce continuously until killed by frost. Keep harvesting to encourage more fruit set. You can often gather a pound or two of fruit per plant each week at peak season.

Growing tomatillos is a rewarding project for any gardener who loves fresh salsa verde. By understanding the full timeline—from those first indoor seeds to the satisfying harvest of husk-covered fruit—you can plan perfectly and avoid common pitfalls. With plenty of sun, warm weather, and a planted pair, you’ll be on track for a succesful harvest in about three months time.