If you’re looking for a houseplant that feels like a piece of living lace, the heart fern is your perfect match. This delicate and lacy fern brings a soft, intricate beauty to any indoor space, but it does ask for a bit of specific care to truly thrive.
Its botanical name is Hemionitis arifolia, and it’s famous for its charming, heart-shaped fronds that have a semi-succulent texture. Unlike many ferns, it’s relatively compact, making it ideal for terrariums, small shelves, or as a desk companion. Let’s get into everything you need to know to keep yours happy and healthy.
Heart Fern – Delicate and Lacy
This heading perfectly captures its essence. The heart fern’s beauty lies in its intricate structure. Each frond is a small, dark green heart, often with a slight curl, and the surface has a subtle, leathery feel. The undersides can be a rusty brown, adding to its visual interest. It’s a slow grower, so you can enjoy its form for a long time without it taking over.
Why the Heart Fern is Special
It stands out from other common ferns for a few key reasons. First, its form is unique—those perfect heart shapes are instantly recognizable. Second, it’s more tolerant of occasional dry spells than most ferns, thanks to its thicker fronds. However, that doesn’t mean it likes to dry out completely. It’s a wonderful plant for someone who wants the fern aesthetic but with a slightly more forgiving nature.
Where to Buy a Healthy Plant
Start with a healthy plant, and you’re halfway to success. Look for these signs when shopping:
- Frond Color: Rich, dark green without yellowing or brown crispy edges.
- New Growth: Look for tiny, curled fiddleheads emerging from the center—a sign of active growth.
- Soil and Pot: The soil should be moist but not soggy. Avoid plants sitting in waterlogged conditions.
- Pest Check: Gently inspect the undersides of fronds for any signs of pests like scale or mealybugs.
- Pebble Tray: The simplest method. Fill a shallow tray with pebbles and water, and set the pot on top (ensure the pot’s base isn’t sitting in the water).
- Grouping Plants: Cluster your humidity-loving plants together. They create a beneficial microclimate.
- Humidifier: The most reliable solution, especially in winter or in arid climates. Run it nearby.
- Bathroom or Kitchen: If these rooms have good indirect light, the steamy environment from showers or cooking can be perfect.
- Insert your finger about an inch into the soil.
- If it feels dry at that depth, it’s time to water.
- If it still feels damp, wait another day or two and check again.
- Take your plant to the sink or use a watering can with a long, narrow spout.
- Water slowly and evenly over the soil surface until you see water just beginning to drain from the bottom holes.
- Let the pot drain completely. Never let the inner pot sit in a saucer of standing water for more than 15 minutes—empty it.
- 2 parts high-quality, peat-based or coconut coir potting mix
- 1 part perlite or pumice (for aeration)
- 1 part orchid bark or horticultural charcoal (for drainage and structure)
- Gently remove the plant from its old pot, teasing apart the roots slightly if they are very tightly wound.
- Place a layer of fresh mix in the new pot.
- Set the plant in, ensuring the soil level remains the same on the stem (don’t bury it deeper).
- Fill in around the sides with your mix, tapping the pot to settle it without compacting.
- Water thoroughly and return to its usual spot.
- Remove any fronds that have turned completely brown or yellow at the base.
- Trim off just the brown, crispy tips if you want, cutting back to green tissue in a shape that follows the natural curve of the frond.
- Wipe the leaves occasionally with a damp cloth to remove dust, which helps with photosynthesis.
- Overwatering: The most common cause. Check your soil moisture and ensure the pot drains well.
- Underwatering: Chronic dryness can also cause yellowing.
- Nutrient Deficiency: If you haven’t fed the plant in years, it might need a gentle feed.
- Natural Aging: If it’s just one or two older, lower fronds, it’s likely just the plant shedding old growth.
- Scale: Look for small, brown, bump-like insects on stems and leaf undersides. Dab with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
- Mealybugs: Appear as small, white, cottony masses. Treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil, ensuring to cover all crevices.
- Spider Mites: Tiny spiders that cause fine webbing and stippling on leaves. Increase humidity and rinse the plant or use miticide.
- When you remove the plant for repotting, gently separate a section of the rhizome (the thick root-like stem) that has at least 2-3 healthy fronds attached.
- Use a clean knife if necessary to make a clean cut.
- Pot the division immediately in a small container with your fresh fern mix.
- Water it in, keep it in high humidity, and care for it as you would a mature plant. It may look sad for a few weeks as it establishes new roots.
- Terrariums & Cloches: An ideal candidate for closed or open terrariums where humidity is naturally high.
- Hanging Displays: Use a macramé hanger near a bright window to show off its trailing form.
- Tabletop Centerpiece: Plant it in a decorative ceramic pot for a living centerpiece on a coffee table or desk.
- Bathroom Shelf: If light permits, it will love the steamy environment.
- Grouped with Other Plants: Pair it with other shade-lovers like Peperomia, Nerve Plant (Fittonia), or small Begonias for a lush, textured display.
- Water more frequently as soil dries faster and the plant is actively growing.
- Apply diluted fertilizer monthly.
- This is the best time for repotting or propagation.
- Reduce watering frequency significantly. Let the top inch or more of soil dry out between waterings.
- Stop fertilizing completely.
- Maintain humidity, as indoor heating dries the air. You may need to run your humidifier more often.
- Ensure it still gets adequate indirect light, as days are shorter.
Bringing Your New Fern Home
Give your plant a smooth transition. Keep it in its nursery pot for the first week or two while it adjusts to your home’s light and humidity. This prevents repotting shock on top of environmental change. Place it in its intended spot and monitor it closely.
The Ideal Home Environment
Recreating the heart fern’s natural, tropical understory habitat is the secret. It wants consistent moisture, warmth, and filtered light—never direct sun.
Perfect Light Conditions
Bright, indirect light is non-negotiable. An east-facing window is often ideal. A north window can work, too. If you only have a south or west window, place the plant several feet back or use a sheer curtain to diffuse the light. Direct sunlight will quickly scorch those delicate and lacy fronds, leaving ugly brown marks.
Getting Humidity Right
This is where most people face challenges. Heart ferns need humidity levels above 50%, preferably around 60-70%. Dry air leads to crispy tips. Here are some effective methods:
Avoid misting the fronds directly too often, as this can sometimes lead to fungal issues if the leaves don’t dry quick enough.
Temperature and Airflow
Keep your fern in a warm spot, between 65°F and 80°F (18°C – 27°C). Protect it from cold drafts from windows, doors, or air conditioning vents. Gentle airflow is good to prevent stagnation, but avoid strong, direct fans.
Watering: The Most Critical Skill
Watering correctly is the biggest key to success. The goal is consistently moist soil—think like a well-wrung sponge. It should never be bone dry, nor should it be a sopping wet bog.
How to Check for Water
Don’t just water on a schedule. Check the soil first.
The Best Watering Technique
Use room-temperature or lukewarm water. Cold water can shock the roots.
If the soil dries out completely, it may repel water. In this case, soak the entire pot in a basin of water for 20-30 minutes to rehydrate the rootball thoroughly.
Soil and Potting Needs
The right soil ensures good root health and proper moisture retention. A standard potting mix is too heavy on its own.
Creating the Perfect Mix
You can make an excellent mix with these components:
This creates a loose, airy, moisture-retentive yet well-draining environment. Some gardeners also add a handful of worm castings for a gentle nutrient boost.
When and How to Repot
Heart ferns have modest root systems and prefer to be slightly root-bound. Repot only every 2-3 years, or when you see roots growing out of the drainage holes. Choose a pot only 1-2 inches larger in diameter. Always use a pot with drainage holes.
Feeding Your Fern
These plants are not heavy feeders. During the active growing season (spring and summer), feed them monthly with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer. Dilute it to half the strength recommended on the label. Over-fertilizing can burn the roots and damage the fronds. In fall and winter, stop feeding entirely as growth slows.
Pruning and Maintenance
Regular grooming keeps your plant looking its best. Use clean, sharp scissors or snips.
Don’t be alarmed if an older outer frond dies off occasionally—this is normal as the plant produces new growth from the center.
Common Problems and Solutions
Even with great care, you might encounter an issue. Here’s how to troubleshoot.
Crispy, Brown Leaf Tips or Edges
This is almost always a humidity issue. The air is too dry. Review the humidity-boosting methods above and implement one immediately. It can also be caused by inconsistent watering (letting the soil get too dry).
Yellowing Fronds
Yellow leaves can have a few causes:
Pests to Watch For
Heart ferns can attract common houseplant pests. Early detection is key.
Isolate any infested plant to prevent the pests from spreading to your other greenery.
Propagation: Making More Plants
You can propagate heart ferns, though it requires patience. The most reliable method is by division during repotting.
Propagation from spores is possible but is a very slow and complex process best left to expert horticulturalists.
Styling and Display Ideas
Its compact size and beautiful texture make the heart fern incredibly versatile.
Seasonal Care Adjustments
Your care routine should shift slightly with the seasons.
Spring and Summer (Active Growth)
Fall and Winter (Dormant/Slow Growth)
FAQ About Heart Ferns
Is the heart fern pet-friendly?
Yes! The heart fern is considered non-toxic to cats and dogs, making it a safe choice for pet-owning plant lovers. However, it’s still best to keep it out of reach to avoid any damage to the plant itself.
Why are my heart fern’s leaves curling?
Some natural curl is part of its charm. But excessive curling can be a sign of underwatering, low humidity, or too much light. Check your soil moisture and light conditions first.
Can I grow a heart fern outdoors?
Only in very specific conditions. If you live in a consistently warm, humid climate (USDA zones 10-11), you could grow it in a completely shaded, protected outdoor spot. For everyone else, it’s strictly an indoor plant.
How often should I really water it?
There’s no set schedule. It could be every 5 days in a warm, bright summer, or every 10-14 days in a cool, dim winter. Always, always check the soil with your finger first—this is the most reliable method.
What’s the difference between a heart fern and a string of hearts?
They are completely different plants. The heart fern (Hemionitis arifolia) is a true fern with upright or arching fronds. String of Hearts (Ceropegia woodii) is a succulent vine with trailing stems of heart-shaped leaves. Their care needs are very different.
My fern isn’t growing new leaves. Is that normal?
Heart ferns are naturally slow growers, especially in lower light or during winter. As long as the existing leaves look healthy, be patient. Ensure it’s getting enough indirect light and a bit of fertilizer during the growing season to encourage new growth.
With its unique charm and manageable size, the heart fern is a rewarding plant to grow. Paying close attention to its need for humidity, consistent moisture, and gentle light will allow you to enjoy its delicate and lacy beauty for many years. Remember, the key is observation—your plant will tell you what it needs if you take the time to look.