Evergreen Shrubs Turning Brown

Seeing your evergreen shrubs turning brown can be really worrying. That unsightly discoloration is a clear sign your plant is struggling, and figuring out why is the first step to saving it. This guide will help you diagnose the problem and give you practical steps to restore your shrubs to health.

Evergreens are meant to stay green all year, so brown foliage stands out. The causes range from simple environmental stress to serious diseases. Don’t panic—many of these issues can be fixed with the right care. Let’s look at what might be going wrong in your garden.

This broad symptom is your starting point. The pattern, location, and timing of the browning are all vital clues. You need to play detective before you can choose the right treatment.

Common Causes of Browning in Evergreens

Here are the main reasons your shrubs might be showing brown needles or leaves.

Winter Burn: This is a classic cause. Cold, dry winds and winter sun pull moisture from leaves while the roots are frozen and can’t replace it. The result is brown or bleached foliage, usually on the side facing the wind or sun.
Drought Stress: Evergreens need water year-round. A dry fall or a period without summer rain can cause browning, often starting at the needle tips and moving inward.
Root Rot: Often caused by overwatering or poor drainage, fungal root rot is serious. The plant can’t take up water, so it browns from the inside out or shows overall decline. You might also see soggy, dark roots.
Salt Damage: Road salt spray or salt used for melting ice can burn foliage and roots. Damage appears on the side facing the road or sidewalk.
Animal Damage: Deer browsing can strip branches, and voles or mice may chew bark and roots under snow cover, disrupting the flow of water and nutrients.
Fungal Diseases: Blights, needle casts, and cankers can cause spotting, banding, or whole sections of browning. These often need specific fungicide treatments.
Insect Infestations: Borers, scale, spider mites, and bagworms can all cause browning by feeding on sap or foliage. Look closely for the pests themselves or signs like holes, webbing, or bumps on stems.
Nutrient Deficiency: A lack of essential nutrients, like nitrogen or iron, can cause yellowing that progresses to browning, especially in new growth.
Transplant Shock: Recently moved shrubs may brown if their roots were damaged or if they haven’t been watered adequately in their new location.

How to Diagnose Your Shrub’s Problem

Follow these steps to narrow down the cause of the browning.

Check the Pattern: Is the browning uniform, on one side, or just on the tips? Winter burn and salt damage are often one-sided. Overall browning suggests root issues or drought.
Check the Location: Is it on old growth, new growth, or both? Some diseases target new shoots, while winter burn often affects older foliage.
Inspect the Soil: Is it soggy or bone dry? Dig down a few inches. Proper moisture should feel like a damp sponge, not mud or dust.
Examine the Branches and Trunk: Look for holes, sawdust, oozing sap, cracked bark, or discolored cankers. Peel back a tiny piece of brown bark; green underneath means the branch may still be alive.
Look for Pests: Check the undersides of leaves and along stems. Use a magnifying glass for tiny pests like spider mites.
Consider the Timing: Did browning appear suddenly after a cold snap, or has it been gradual over the season? This clues you in to environmental vs. disease causes.

Step-by-Step Recovery and Treatment

Once you have a likely diagnosis, take action with these targeted treatments.

For Environmental Stress (Winter Burn, Drought)

Water Deeply: Give the shrub a long, slow soak at its base. Do this weekly during dry periods, even in late fall before the ground freezes.
Apply Mulch: Spread 2-3 inches of organic mulch (wood chips, bark) around the base. This keeps roots cool, retains moisture, and prevents soil compaction. Keep mulch away from the trunk itself.
Use Anti-Desiccant Spray: For broadleaf evergreens (like rhododendron), an anti-transpirant spray in late fall can help reduce moisture loss.
Provide Windbreaks: For winter burn, burlap screens on the windy side can offer protection.

For Suspected Root Rot

Stop watering immediately and let the soil dry out.
Improve drainage by aerating the soil or consider transplanting to a raised bed if the area is chronically wet.
In severe cases, you may need to remove the plant, amend the soil with compost, and replant with a species better suited to wet conditions.

For Fungal Diseases

Correct identification is key. Take a sample to a local nursery or extension service.

Prune out and destroy all infected branches. Sterilize your pruners between cuts with a bleach solution.
Improve air circulation by thinning out dense growth.
Water at the base, not overhead, to keep foliage dry.
Apply a fungicide labeled for your specific disease, following the instructions carefully.

For Insect Problems

The treatment depends on the pest.

For borers: Prune out infested wood. Preventive insecticide sprays may be needed for trees.
For scale or mites: Horticultural oil sprays applied in dormant season or summer (follow label for timing) can be very effective.
For bagworms: Hand-pick and destroy the bags in winter or early spring before eggs hatch.

Pruning and Clean-Up Strategies

Pruning is often necessary to remove dead material and encourage new growth.

Wait for the Right Time: For most evergreens, late winter or early spring is best, just before new growth starts. Avoid heavy pruning in late summer or fall.
Use Sharp, Clean Tools: Use bypass pruners for clean cuts. Disinfect with rubbing alcohol to prevent spreading disease.
Test for Life: Before cutting a whole branch, scrape a small bit of bark with your thumbnail. If it’s green underneath, the branch is still alive. If it’s brown and dry, it’s dead.
Prune Dead Wood: Cut dead branches back to healthy wood, just above a side branch or bud. You can cut brown needles off a branch if the stem is still alive; new growth may sprout.
Be Patient: Evergreens often don’t resprout from old, bare wood. The green growth may come back slowly from living buds. It can take a full season to see recovery.

Prevention is the Best Medicine

Keeping your shrubs healthy from the start is easier than fixing problems.

Choose the Right Plant: Select shrubs suited to your climate, soil, and sunlight conditions. A plant in the wrong place is always stressed.
Plant Correctly: Dig a wide, shallow hole. Don’t plant too deep! The root flare should be visible at the soil surface.
Water Wisely: Establish a deep root system with infrequent, deep watering rather than frequent sprinkles. A soaker hose is ideal.
Fertilize Judiciously: Use a balanced, slow-release fertilizer in early spring. Over-fertilizing can burn roots and cause excessive, weak growth.
Monitor Regularly: Walk your garden often. Catching a pest or disease early makes a huge difference in control.

When to Call a Professional

Sometimes, the problem is too big to handle alone. Contact a certified arborist if:

The main trunk is damaged or has large cankers.
You suspect a major pest infestation, like extensive borer damage.
The tree or large shrub is near power lines or structures.
You’ve tried treatment but the decline continues rapidly.

FAQ: Evergreen Shrub Problems

Can a brown evergreen come back?

It depends. If the buds and stems are still alive, it can regrow foliage, but this is a slow process. If the entire plant is brown and the stems are brittle, it is likely dead. The scratch test will tell you for sure.

Should I cut the brown parts off my evergreen?

Yes, you can prune out dead, brown branches for appearance and plant health. This prevents disease from setting in the dead wood. Just be sure not to cut into living green wood unless your shaping the plant.

How often should I water my evergreen shrubs?

There’s no single schedule. Water deeply when the top 2-3 inches of soil are dry. This might be once a week in summer or only during extended dry spells in spring and fall. Newly planted shrubs need more frequent watering for the first two years.

What is the best fertilizer for evergreens?

A balanced, slow-release granular fertilizer (like a 10-10-10 or formula for acid-loving plants) applied in early spring is generally best. Avoid fertilizing in late summer, as it can encourage new growth that won’t harden off before winter.

Why is my newly planted evergreen turning brown?

This is usually transplant shock or improper watering. Ensure it’s getting enough water (the root ball can dry out even if surrounding soil is damp) and that it wasn’t planted too deep. Protect it from harsh sun and wind while it establishes.

Could my evergreen have a disease?

Yes, fungal diseases like Seiridium canker on Leyland cypress or Kabatina blight on junipers are common. Look for specific patterns like scattered dead branches, resin on the bark, or small black fungal fruiting bodies. A local expert can help with ID.

Dealing with evergreen shrubs turning brown requires patience and observation. Start by identifying the specific cause, weather its environmental stress, pests, or disease. Then, apply the correct treatment, weather that’s adjusting your watering, pruning out damage, or applying a targeted product. With consistent care and the preventive steps outlined, you can often restore your shrub’s health and prevent the problem from reoccuring. Remember, a healthy plant is the most resilient, so focus on providing the right conditions from the start.