If you’re looking for a houseplant that feels as good as it looks, let me introduce you to the donkey ear plant. With soft, velvety leaves that are a joy to touch, this charming succulent is a wonderful addition to any indoor garden.
Its botanical name is Kalanchoe gastonis-bonnieri, but donkey ear is the perfect common name. Those large, fleshy leaves really do resemble the ears of a donkey, covered in a fine, silvery fuzz. It’s a plant that invites interaction, and caring for it is surprisingly straightforward once you know the basics.
Donkey Ear Plant
This unique plant is part of the large Kalanchoe family, hailing from Madagascar. It’s known for its rapid growth and interesting lifecycle. The soft coating on its leaves, called farina, helps protect it from strong sunlight and reduces water loss. This is key to understanding how to care for it properly.
Why the Velvet Leaves Matter
The velvety texture isn’t just for show. That layer of tiny hairs serves several important functions:
- It reflects excess sunlight, preventing the leaves from getting scorched.
- It helps trap a bit of moisture close to the leaf surface in dry air.
- It acts as a deterrent to some pests who don’t like the fuzzy feeling.
- It grows quickly, forming a tall, elegant rosette.
- As it matures, it produces countless tiny plantlets along the edges of its leaves.
- These baby plants, called bulbils, eventually drop and root themselfs nearby.
- After the main plant blooms with a tall, impressive flower spike, it declines, leaving its many offspring to continue its legacy.
- Use a commercial cactus or succulent potting mix.
- For even better drainage, you can amend it with extra perlite or pumice (a 2:1 mix of potting soil to perlite works well).
- Choose a pot with a drainage hole. Terracotta pots are excellent because they allow the soil to dry out more quickly.
- Stick your finger about 2 inches into the soil. If it feels dry, it’s time to water.
- Water thoroughly until you see water running out of the drainage hole.
- Empty the saucer underneath after a few minutes so the pot isn’t sitting in water.
- Then, let the soil dry out almost completely before watering again. In winter, you may only need to water once a month or less.
- Use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half strength.
- Feed only during the active growing season (spring and summer).
- Fertilize once a month at most. Stop feeding entirely in fall and winter.
- Over-fertilizing can cause weak growth and damage the roots.
- Wait until the tiny plantlets on the leaf margins develop small roots. They’ll look like little fuzzballs with roots.
- Gently wiggle them off the leaf. They should come away easily.
- Place them directly on top of moist, well-draining succulent soil in a small pot.
- Don’t bury them. Just let the roots make contact with the soil.
- Keep the soil lightly moist (not wet) until they establish themselves, then care for them as normal.
- Choose a healthy, plump leaf and gently twist it off the stem, getting a clean break.
- Let the leaf callous over for a day or two. This means letting the broken end dry out and form a seal.
- Lay the leaf on top of dry succulent soil. You can rest the calloused end lightly on the soil.
- Place it in bright, indirect light and wait. In a few weeks, tiny roots and a new baby plant will begin to form at the base. Mist the soil very lightly only when it’s completely dry.
- Cut a piece of stem that’s a few inches long, using a clean knife.
- Remove the lower leaves so you have a bare stem.
- Let the cutting dry and callous for 2-3 days.
- Plant the calloused end in a small pot with succulent mix.
- Water lightly after a week, then care for it as you would a mature plant once you see new growth.
- Mealybugs: Look for white, cottony masses in the leaf crevices. Dab them with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol.
- Aphids: Sometimes they attack new growth. A strong spray of water or insecticidal soap can take care of them.
- Spider Mites: In very dry conditions, you might see fine webbing. Increase humidity slightly and wipe leaves with a damp cloth.
- Stop watering immediately.
- Remove the plant from its pot and inspect the roots. Cut away any black, mushy roots with sterile tools.
- Let the rootball dry out for a day, then repot in fresh, dry succulent mix.
- Wait at least a week before resuming very cautious watering.
- Move it to a brighter location with more indirect sunlight.
- You can prune back the leggy stem and propagate the cutting.
- Sunburn: Move the plant back from direct, hot sun, especially through glass.
- Physical damage: The soft leaves bruise easily. Be gentle when handling or moving the plant.
- Water on leaves: Try to water at the soil level, as water droplets on the leaves can magnify light and cause spots or damage the farina coating.
- Use it as a solo specimen in a decorative pot on a side table or desk where its texture can be appreciated up close.
- Pair it with other succulents that have different leaf forms—like the smooth stones of a jade plant or the spiky lines of an aloe—for a captivating texture contrast.
- Because it grows tall, it works well as the “thriller” component in a succulent dish garden or larger container arrangement.
- Its soft, silvery color complements almost any pot color, from bright whites to deep, earthy terracottas.
Growth Habit and Lifecycle
Donkey ear is a monocarpic plant. This means it flowers once, sets seed, and then the main plant dies. But don’t let that worry you! It has a brilliant strategy for survival.
Ideal Growing Conditions
To keep your donkey ear plant thriving, you need to mimic its native environment as closely as possible. Think warm, bright, and on the dry side.
Light Requirements
This plant loves plenty of bright, indirect light. A south or west-facing window is often ideal, but with some protection from the most intense afternoon sun. If the light is too low, the plant will become leggy as it stretches for the sun. If the leaves start looking faded or get crispy brown spots, it might be getting to much direct light.
Temperature and Humidity
Average household temperatures are perfect, ranging from 60°F to 80°F (15°C to 27°C). It’s not frost-tolerant at all, so keep it away from drafty windows in winter. Average home humidity is fine; you don’t need to mist it. In fact, misting can damage the lovely velvety coating on the leaves.
Planting and Potting Mix
The right soil is non-negotiable for succulents. Good drainage is the most critical factor to prevent root rot.
Complete Care Guide
Watering Your Donkey Ear Correctly
This is where most people go wrong. The “soak and dry” method is your best friend. Always check the soil before you water.
The soft, velvety leaves store water, so the plant can handle dry periods much better than overwatering.
Fertilizing for Healthy Growth
Donkey ear plants aren’t heavy feeders. A little fertilizer goes a long way to support their growth, especially in the spring and summer.
Pruning and Maintenance
Pruning is simple. You mainly need to remove any dead or damaged leaves at the base of the plant. Use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears. If your plant is getting to tall and leggy, you can also cut back the main stem to encourage a more compact shape. The piece you cut off can be propagated!
Propagation is Incredibly Easy
One of the most fun aspects of the donkey ear plant is how easily it makes new plants. You have a few foolproof options.
Propagating from Plantlets (Bulbils)
This is the easiest method. The plant does most of the work for you.
Propagating from Leaf Cuttings
You can also start a new plant from a single leaf.
Propagating from Stem Cuttings
If you have a leggy plant, this is a great way to restart it.
Common Problems and Solutions
Pests to Watch For
Thanks to its fuzzy leaves, the donkey ear plant is fairly pest-resistant. However, it can occasionally have issues.
Always isolate a new plant for a week or two to check for pests before placing it near your other houseplants.
Diseases and Physiological Issues
Most problems are related to watering or light.
Soft, Mushy Leaves or Black Stems
This is a classic sign of overwatering and root rot. The roots have suffocated and begun to decay.
Leggy, Stretched Growth
If the space between leaves is getting long, the plant is etiolating—stretching for more light.
Brown, Crispy Leaf Edges or Spots
This can have a couple causes:
Design and Styling Ideas
The donkey ear plant’s sculptural form and unique texture make it a fantastic design element.
Remember to give it enough space in arrangements, as those large leaves need room to grow without being crowded.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Is the donkey ear plant toxic to pets?
Yes. Like many plants in the Kalanchoe genus, it is considered toxic to cats and dogs if ingested. It can cause gastrointestinal upset and, in rare cases, more serious heart issues. It’s best to keep it out of reach of curious pets.
How often should I repot my donkey ear?
Repot every 2-3 years, or when you see roots growing out of the drainage holes. They actually do quite well when slightly pot-bound. The best time to repot is in the spring or early summer. Always use a pot that is only one size larger than the current one.
Why are the leaves on my plant turning yellow?
Yellow leaves are most often a sign of overwatering. Check the soil moisture immediately. If it’s wet, let it dry out thoroughly. If the problem persists, check for root rot. Occasionally, yellowing lower leaves are just part of the plant’s natural aging process, especially if it’s preparing to flower.
My plant is flowering. What should I do?
Enjoy the show! The flower spike can grow several feet tall, with clusters of pendulous, coral-colored flowers. Remember that after flowering, the main rosette will die back. But by then, it will have produced many plantlets for you to continue growing. You can cut down the spent flower stalk after it dries out.
Can I grow donkey ear outdoors?
You can, but only in USDA hardiness zones 9-11, where temperatures don’t drop below freezing. In these climates, plant it in a spot with morning sun and afternoon shade, in very well-draining soil. In cooler zones, you can move it outside to a patio in summer, but bring it back inside well before the first fall frost.
How fast does this plant grow?
Under good conditions, it’s a relatively fast grower for a succulent. You can expect significant growth in a single season, especially if it’s getting enough light and appropriate water. The speed at which it produces plantlets is particularly remarkable.
The donkey ear plant, with its soft, velvety leaves, is a truly special and low-maintenance houseplant. Its unique texture, rapid growth, and fascinating propagation habits make it engaging for both new and experienced gardeners. By providing bright light, careful watering, and well-draining soil, you’ll be rewarded with a healthy, thriving plant that constantly gives you new generations to enjoy or share with friends. Paying attention to its simple needs is the key to long-term success with this delightful succulent.