Bush Goliath Tomato

If you’re looking for a truly impressive tomato to grow, the bush goliath tomato is a fantastic choice. This giant heirloom garden variety is known for its massive, flavorful fruits and a more compact plant habit that suits many gardens.

Unlike many large heirloom tomatoes that grow on sprawling vines, the Bush Goliath lives up to its name by forming a more contained, bushy plant. This makes it ideal for smaller spaces, containers, or even raised beds. You still get the classic heirloom taste and size, just on a more manageable plant. Let’s look at how you can grow these successfully.

This variety is a determinate tomato, which explains its bush-like growth. Determinate plants grow to a set height, set their fruit all at once over a shorter period, and then begin to decline. This is different from indeterminate tomatoes, which vine continuously. For the Bush Goliath, this means you can expect a large, concentrated harvest of big tomatoes, perfect for canning sauces or sharing with neighbors.

Why Choose This Tomato Variety?

There are several key benefits to planting Bush Goliath tomatoes in your garden:

Space Efficiency: The plants typically stay between 3 to 4 feet tall and wide, requiring less staking and room than their indeterminate cousins.
Heavy, Concentrated Yield: You’ll get a lot of fruit ripening within a few weeks, which is great for preservation.
Heirloom Flavor: It offers the rich, complex, and sweet-acid balance that heirloom tomato lovers look for.
Large Fruit Size: Fruits regularly reach 1 to 2 pounds each, with some even larger under ideal conditions.
Good Disease Resistance: As a modern heirloom introduction, it often shows better resistance to common tomato diseases than older heirlooms.

Starting Your Plants: Seeds vs. Transplants

You can start Bush Goliath tomatoes from seeds indoors or purchase young transplants from a nursery. Starting from seed gives you more control and a wider selection.

Starting Seeds Indoors

Begin this process about 6-8 weeks before your last expected spring frost date. Here’s a simple step-by-step guide:

Fill clean seed trays or pots with a sterile, fine seed-starting mix. Do not use garden soil.
Plant seeds 1/4 inch deep, placing 2-3 seeds per cell to ensure germination.
Water gently to moisten the soil, and cover the tray with a plastic dome or plastic wrap to retain humidity.
Place the tray in a warm location (70-80°F). A top of a refrigerator often works well. Light isn’t critical until seeds sprout.
Once seedlings emerge (usually in 5-10 days), immediately move them to a very bright light source, like a south-facing window or grow lights.
Keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy. A weak fan can help strengthen the stems by providing a gentle breeze.
When seedlings develop their first set of true leaves (after the initial seed leaves), thin to the strongest one per cell.
Transplant them into slightly larger pots if they become root-bound before it’s time to go outside.

Hardening Off and Planting Out

Never move tender seedlings directly into the garden. They need a gradual transition called “hardening off.” About 7-10 days before planting, start placing your seedlings outdoors in a sheltered, shady spot for a few hours each day. Slowly increase their time outside and their exposure to direct sun over the week. This prevents sunscald and shock.

Plant them in the garden after all danger of frost has passed and night temperatures stay above 50°F. Choose the sunniest spot you have—at least 6-8 hours of direct sun daily.

Site Preparation and Planting

Tomatoes are heavy feeders and need deep, fertile, well-draining soil to support those giant fruits.

Soil Test: If possible, test your soil. Tomatoes prefer a slightly acidic pH of 6.2 to 6.8.
Amend the Soil: Work in several inches of compost or well-rotted manure into the planting area. This improves drainage and fertility.
Planting Deeply: Dig a hole deep enough to bury the stem up to the first set of true leaves. Tomato stems will grow roots along the buried section, creating a stronger root system.
Spacing: Give each Bush Goliath plant about 2 to 3 feet of space in all directions. Good air circulation helps prevent foliar diseases.
Immediate Support: Even though it’s a bush type, the heavy fruit load requires support. Place a sturdy tomato cage or drive a strong stake next to the plant at planting time to avoid damaging roots later.

Essential Care Through the Season

Consistent care is the secret to getting those giant, healthy tomatoes. The main priorities are watering, feeding, and pruning.

Watering and Mulching

Inconsistent watering is a leading cause of problems like blossom end rot. Your goal is to keep soil evenly moist, not sopping wet or bone dry.

Water deeply at the base of the plant, avoiding the leaves, about 1-2 inches per week.
Use a soaker hose or drip irrigation for the best results.
After planting, apply a 2-3 inch layer of organic mulch (straw, shredded leaves, wood chips) around the plants. This conserves moisture, suppresses weeds, and keeps soil-borne diseases from splashing onto leaves.

Fertilizing for Success

Start with that soil rich in compost. Then, follow a feeding schedule:

At planting, you can mix a balanced, slow-release organic fertilizer into the soil according to package directions.
When the first fruits are about the size of a golf ball, side-dress the plants with a fertilizer higher in phosphorus and potassium (like a 5-10-10) to support fruit development. Too much nitrogen at this stage will give you lots of leaves but fewer fruits.
Another light side-dressing about a month later can be beneficial for this heavy producer.

Pruning and Support

As a determinate bush, the Bush Goliath requires less pruning than indeterminate types. Over-pruning can actually reduce your yield. The main tasks are:

Remove any leaves or suckers that grow below the first flower cluster. This improves air flow.
Generally, leave the suckers above the first cluster alone, as they will produce fruit.
As the plant grows, gently tuck branches inside the tomato cage. For stakes, use soft ties to secure the main stem.
Remove any yellowing or diseased leaves from the bottom of the plant as the season progresses.

Common Pests and Problems

Keep a eye out for these typical tomato issues. Early action is key.

Blossom End Rot: A dark, leathery spot on the bottom of the fruit caused by calcium deficiency often linked to irregular watering. Maintain even soil moisture and ensure your soil pH is correct for calcium uptake.
Tomato Hornworms: Large green caterpillars that can defoliate a plant quickly. Hand-pick them off or use an organic control like Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis).
Early Blight & Septoria Leaf Spot: Fungal diseases that cause spots on lower leaves. Use mulch, water at the soil level, rotate crops yearly, and remove affected leaves. Organic fungicides can help if applied early.
Aphids: Small sap-sucking insects on new growth. A strong spray of water from the hose often knocks them off, or use insecticidal soap.

Harvesting and Enjoying Your Crop

Your Bush Goliath tomatoes will be ready to harvest about 70-80 days after transplanting. The fruits should be fully colored (a deep red) and slightly soft to the touch. To harvest, gently twist the fruit until it snaps off, or use pruners.

For the best flavor, let them fully ripen on the vine. If frost threatens, you can pick mature green tomatoes and ripen them indoors in a paper bag. Here are some great ways to use your harvest:

Fresh slicing for sandwiches and burgers
Classic tomato salads with basil and mozzarella
Homemade salsa and bruschetta
Rich, cooked sauces, soups, and ketchup for canning or freezing

FAQ Section

How big does the Bush Goliath tomato plant get?
It is a determinate bush that typically grows 3-4 feet tall and wide, making it more compact than many heirloom varieties.

Is Bush Goliath an heirloom tomato?
Yes, it is considered a heirloom garden variety, prized for its flavor and size, though it is a more recent introduction with some improved disease resistance.

Do I need to stake Bush Goliath tomatoes?
Absolutely. Despite its bush habit, the fruits are very heavy. A strong, large tomato cage or a sturdy stake is necessary to keep the plant from collapsing.

Can I grow Bush Goliath in a container?
Yes, it is an excellent choice for container gardening. Use a large pot (at least 15-20 gallons) with drainage holes and a high-quality potting mix. Watering will be more frequent.

What makes it different from other Goliath tomatoes?
The key difference is the growth habit. The “Bush” in its name specifies its determinate, compact form, unlike indeterminate “Goliath” types that grow as tall, sprawling vines.

Growing the bush goliath tomato is a rewarding project for any gardener wanting large heirloom flavor without needing a huge garden. With proper site preparation, consistent care, and a little attention to detail, you’ll be well on your way to a impressive harvest of these giant, tasty fruits. Remember to save some seeds from your best tomatoes to share with friends or plant next year, continuing the heirloom tradition.