Bulbophyllum Echinolabium

If you’re looking for a truly remarkable orchid that breaks all the rules, you need to learn about the bulbophyllum echinolabium. This exotic and rare orchid is famous not for a beautiful scent, but for its astonishing and unforgettable flower.

It’s a plant that sparks conversation and sometimes, a bit of shock. We’ll look at everything you need to know to appreciate and care for this unique botanical wonder.

This species is part of the massive Bulbophyllum genus, the largest in the orchid family. What sets it apart is its dramatic inflorescence. The flowers are large, fleshy, and complex, with a hinged lip that moves. Their most talked-about feature is their powerful odor, often compared to rotting meat. This scent is a clever trick to attract its specific pollinators: carrion flies.

What Makes This Orchid So Unique?

Beyond its smell, several features make this plant stand out.

Flower Size and Structure: The flowers can be up to 14 inches (35 cm) long from the tip of the sepals to the end of the tail-like petals. The “echinolabium” name refers to the spiny, hedgehog-like appearance of its labellum (lip).
Kinetic Lip: The lip is delicately hinged. It moves slightly with air currents or touch, mimicking a piece of flesh to further attract flies.
Growth Habit: It’s a sympodial orchid, meaning it grows from a creeping rhizome, producing new pseudobulbs over time. The pseudobulbs are spaced fairly far apart on the rhizome.
Rarity in Cultivation: Due to its specific needs and strong odor, it’s not a common find in most collections or nurseries, adding to its exotic appeal.

Ideal Growing Conditions

Success with bulbophyllum echinolabium depends on replicating its native environment as closely as possible. It comes from the warm, humid lowland forests of Sulawesi.

Light Requirements

This plant prefers bright, indirect light. Think of the dappled light under a forest canopy.

Aim for light levels similar to those for Phalaenopsis or Paphiopedilums.
An east-facing window is often perfect. A shaded south or west window can also work.
Too much direct sun will quickly scorch the leaves, causing yellow or brown patches.

Temperature & Humidity

This is a warm-growing orchid that does not like cold temperatures.

Daytime Temperatures: 75-85°F (24-29°C) is ideal.
Nighttime Temperatures: Should not drop below 65°F (18°C). Cold is a major killer of this species.
Humidity: High humidity is non-negotiable. Aim for 70-80%. This can be achieved with a humidifier, a large humidity tray, or by growing in a sealed or semi-sealed terrarium or orchid case.

Air Movement

Stagnant, humid air invites fungal and bacterial rot. Gentle, constant air movement is crucial. A small oscillating fan in the growing area, not pointed directly at the plant, helps immensly.

Potting, Media, and Watering

Getting the roots and potting mix right is half the battle. The rhizome likes to creep, so pot choice is important.

Choosing a Pot and Media

Shallow, wide pots (like bulb pans) or orchid baskets are best. They allow the rhizome to spread naturally. The potting medium must be open, airy, and retain moisture without staying soggy.

Fine to medium-grade fir bark is a common base.
Add components like perlite, horticultural charcoal, and sphagnum moss (not too much).
Some growers use New Zealand sphagnum moss alone very successfully in high-humidity setups.

Watering Schedule

The medium should be kept evenly moist, but not waterlogged. It should never dry out completely.

Water thoroughly when the top surface of the medium feels just slightly dry.
Use lukewarm water, preferably rainwater, reverse osmosis, or distilled water. This species can be sensitive to mineral salts.
Ensure excellent drainage—water should flow freely out of the pot.

Fertilizing for Healthy Growth

Feed regularly but weakly. A balanced orchid fertilizer (e.g., 20-20-20) is fine.

Dilute the fertilizer to 1/4 or 1/2 the strength recommended on the label.
Apply this weak solution every 1-2 weeks during the active growing season (spring through fall).
Flush the pot with plain water once a month to prevent salt buildup, which can damage the sensitive roots.
Reduce feeding in the winter when growth slows, but do not stop completely if the plant is still active.

Step-by-Step Guide to Repotting

Repot only when necessary, as the plant doesn’t like root disturbance. Signs include broken-down medium or the plant literally growing over the edge of the pot. The best time is when new root growth just begins, often in spring.

Gently remove the plant from its old pot. You may need to cut a plastic pot away.
Soak the root mass to make it more pliable and carefully remove all the old potting medium.
Trim any dead, mushy, or hollow roots with sterilized scissors.
Place the plant in its new, shallow pot. Position the oldest pseudobulbs against the edge, with the growth direction pointing toward the center.
Hold the plant in place and gently add new medium around the roots, tapping the pot to settle it. Do not bury the rhizome or pseudobulbs.
You may use a rhizome clip or a piece of wire to secure the plant until new roots anchor it.
Wait a few days before resuming normal watering to allow any root wounds to callus.

Common Problems and Solutions

Even with great care, issues can arise. Here’s how to troubleshoot.

Leaf Yellowing or Spots

Brown, crispy spots: Usually sunburn. Move to a shadier location.
Yellowing leaves: Could be overwatering, old age (bottom leaves yellow naturally), or nutrient deficiency. Check your watering habits and fertilization schedule.
Black or soft spots: Likely bacterial or fungal rot. Increase air circulation, reduce leaf wetness, and you may need to apply a fungicide and remove affected tissue.

Lack of Flowering

If your plant is healthy but won’t bloom, check these factors.

Insufficient light: This is the most common cause. Try providing brighter indirect light.
Not enough humidity: Flower spikes can abort in dry air.
Plant is too young or small: It needs to reach a certain maturity and size to support the massive energy cost of flowering.
No temperature consistency: Ensure it’s kept warm year-round without cold drafts.

Pests to Watch For

Scale, mealybugs, and spider mites can be a problem, especially in dry conditions. The best defense is a healthy plant and high humidity. Inspect regularly, especially under leaves. Treat infestations early with horticultural oil or insecticidal soap.

Propagation Methods

You can propagate bulbophyllum echinolabium by division, but patience is key.

Only divide a large, healthy plant that has at least 6-8 mature pseudobulbs.
During repotting, use a sterile knife to cut the rhizome between pseudobulbs.
Ensure each division has at least 3-4 mature pseudobulbs and some new growth. Smaller divisions often struggle or die.
Pot each division separately and provide extra care (higher humidity, no fertilizer) until new root growth is evident.

Seed propagation is extremely difficult and slow, requiring sterile laboratory conditions, so it’s not practical for home growers.

FAQ Section

How bad is the smell of the Bulbophyllum echinolabium flower?
It’s strong and unpleasant to humans, resembling rotting meat. It’s best grown where the fragrance can be appreciated from a distance, like a greenhouse or a well-ventilated sunroom. The smell is usually most potent during the warmest part of the day.

Is this orchid hard to grow?
It has a reputation for being challenging, primarily due to its strict need for constant warmth and very high humidity. If you can provide these two conditions consistently, many other aspects of its care become easier.

Can I grow Bulbophyllum echinolabium indoors?
Yes, but you’ll likely need a dedicated setup. A large terrarium, an orchid cabinet (ikea greenhouse hack), or a small indoor greenhouse with a humidifier and heater is often necessary to create the stable microclimate it requires, especially if you live in a temperate climate.

How often does it bloom?
Mature plants typically bloom once a year, often in late spring or summer. The individual flowers are long-lasting for their type, often remaining in good condition for a week or more, provided you can tolerate the aroma.

Where can I buy one of these rare orchids?
Check with specialized orchid nurseries, particularly those that focus on species orchids or Bulbophyllums. Online retailers that sell orchids from around the world are also a good source. Always ensure the seller is reputable and that the plant was propagated in a nursery, not collected from the wild.

Caring for a bulbophyllum echinolabium is a rewarding test of your gardening skills. Its dramatic appearance and unique biology offer a constant source of fascination. While its floral perfume won’t win any traditional awards, the achievement of bringing this exotic and rare orchid into bloom certainly will. With attention to its core needs for heat, humidity, and consistent moisture, you can enjoy the incredible spectacle of one of the orchid world’s most extraordinary performers.