Brown Tips On Redwood Trees

Seeing brown tips on redwood trees can be a worrying sight for any gardener. These majestic giants are usually so resilient, so when their foliage starts to crisp at the edges, it’s a clear signal something is off. Don’t panic, though. In most cases, this browning is a symptom of environmental stress rather than a fatal disease. With some expert observation and care, you can usually restore your tree’s vibrant health.

This guide will walk you through the common causes and, most importantly, the solutions. We’ll look at everything from watering habits to soil conditions and hidden pests. By the end, you’ll know exactly how to diagnose the problem and take action.

First, let’s identify what we’re seeing. “Brown tips” typically refers to the very ends of the leaf scales (needles) turning a rusty tan or brown color, while the rest of the foliage might still look green. It often starts at the top or on the sunniest side of the tree and can progress if the issue isn’t corrected.

Primary Culprits: Water and Moisture Stress

This is the number one reason for browning tips. Redwoods are thirsty trees, famous for absorbing moisture from fog. When they don’t get enough, the tips dry out first.

Underwatering: This is the most common issue, especially for younger, newly planted redwoods. Their roots haven’t spread deep yet. Dry, hot, or windy weather can quickly parch the soil.
Overwatering & Root Rot: Yes, you can love them too much with water. Soggy, poorly drained soil suffocates roots. They begin to rot and can’t take up water, leading to drought-like symptoms—including brown tips. It’s a tricky paradox.
Low Humidity: Inland areas far from the native coastal fog belt have much drier air. This can cause excessive transpiration (water loss from the leaves), stressing the tree.

How to Fix Watering Issues

Follow these steps to get your watering back on track:

1. Check the Soil. Don’t just water on a schedule. Stick your finger or a trowel 4-6 inches into the soil near the drip line (under the outer branches). It should feel cool and moist, not sopping wet or bone dry.
2. Water Deeply and Infrequently. When you do water, do it slowly and for a long time. This encourages roots to grow deep down, making the tree more drought-resistant. A soaker hose is ideal.
3. Improve Drainage. If you suspect waterlogging, check the planting area. You might need to aerate the soil or, in severe cases, consider improving the site with organic matter to help water flow through.
4. Mulch Generously. Apply a 3-4 inch layer of wood chip mulch around the base (keeping it away from the trunk). This is crucial. It locks soil moisture in, regulates soil temperature, and mimics the natural duff of a forest floor.

Environmental and Soil Factors

If your watering seems correct, look at these other key factors.

Salt Burn: Using heavily chlorinated water or water with high salt content (common in some well water) can cause tip burn. Road salt in winter can also be a problem.
Nutrient Deficiency: A lack of certain nutrients, like magnesium or nitrogen, can manifest as poor color and browning. However, redwoods generally need less fertilizer than other trees.
Soil pH: Redwoods prefer slightly acidic soil. If your soil is too alkaline, the tree can’t access nutrients properly, a condition called chlorosis that often starts with yellowing then browning.
Wind Scorch: Strong, dry winds literally suck the moisture right out of the foliage, causing scorched brown tips, especially on the windward side.

How to Correct Soil and Environmental Problems

1. Test Your Soil. A simple home test kit can reveal pH and major nutrient levels. Aim for a pH between 5.5 and 6.5.
2. Use the Right Water. If possible, use collected rainwater for irrigation. Let tap water sit overnight to allow chlorine to dissipate.
3. Fertilize with Caution. Use a slow-release, balanced fertilizer formulated for acid-loving trees (like those for rhododendrons) only if a soil test indicates a need. Apply in early spring.
4. Provide Wind Protection. For young trees, a temporary burlap screen on the windy side can prevent scorch while they establish.

Pests and Diseases (Less Common but Possible)

While redwoods are remarkably pest-resistant, they’re not immune.

Spider Mites: These tiny pests suck sap, causing stippling and browning. You might see fine webbing on the foliage. They thrive in hot, dusty conditions.
Blight or Fungal Issues: Certain fungal pathogens can cause tip blight, where new growth dies back. This is more likely in consistently damp, humid conditions with poor air circulation.

How to Address Pests and Disease

1. Inspect Regularly. Look closely at the browning foliage with a magnifying glass. Check for moving dots (mites) or unusual spotting.
2. Blast Them Off. A strong jet of water from your hose can dislodge many spider mite colonies effectively.
3. Prune Carefully. If you see a localized branch with severe die-back, prune it out well behind the affected area. Sterilize your pruning tools between cuts with rubbing alcohol.
4. Consult an Arborist. For large trees or if you suspect a serious fungal disease, professional diagnosis is worth the investment. They can prescribe targeted treatments.

Pruning and Ongoing Care

You cannot make brown tips turn green again. The goal is to prevent further browning and support healthy new growth.

Prune Only Dead Material. Wait until late winter or early spring. Only remove the branches that are completely dead or severely damaged. Avoid heavy pruning, as redwoods don’t resprout easily from old wood.
Focus on Prevention. The best “treatment” is consistent, preventative care: deep watering during dry spells, maintaining a mulch layer, and protecting the tree from physical damage.
Be Patient. Trees operate on a slower timeline. Once you correct the stress factor, you may not see improvement until the next growing season when new, healthy foliage emerges.

FAQ: Your Quick Questions Answered

Should I cut the brown tips off my redwood?

No, don’t try to snip individual brown tips. It’s impractical and can damage the remaining healthy foliage. Only prune entire branches if they are dead.

Can a redwood tree recover from brown tips?

Absolutely. If the underlying cause is fixed, the tree will stop producing brown tips. The existing brown needles may eventually fall, and will be replaced by new green growth in time.

How often should I water my redwood tree?

There’s no universal schedule. Water when the top 4 inches of soil become dry. This could be weekly in summer for a young tree, or hardly ever for a mature, established tree with access to ground water.

Is it normal for redwood lower branches to turn brown?

Some interior shedding of older, shaded branches is natural as the tree grows taller. However, widespread browning on the lower outside branches is more likely a sign of stress.

Seeing those brown tips can be disheartening, but view them as your tree’s way of talking to you. It’s telling you it needs a change in its care. By systematically checking water, soil, and environment, you can usually pinpoint the issue. Remember, the solutions are often simple: consistent deep watering, a protective mulch layer, and a watchful eye. With this expert care, your redwood can return to its full, healthy glory, standing tall and green for years to come.