Bermuda Grass Brown

Seeing your bermuda grass brown can be worrying, but it’s often a natural part of its cycle. Before you take action, you need to figure out if you’re dealing with a dormant lawn or a dead one.

Bermuda grass is a warm-season champion, thriving in heat and going dormant when temperatures drop. This dormancy is a survival tactic, and the grass usually greens up again in spring. However, brown patches can also signal problems like disease, pests, or poor care. Let’s look at how to tell the difference and get your lawn back on track.

This specific shade of brown is your first clue. Dormant Bermuda grass turns a uniform, pale tan or beige color. It’s a consistent brown across the lawn, not just in random spots. If you’re seeing isolated circles, streaks, or irregular patches of a different brown, that points to other issues.

Dormant vs. Dead: The Tug Test

The simplest way to check is the tug test. Grab a handful of brown grass and give it a gentle pull.

If the grass is dormant, the roots will hold firm. The crowns (the base of the grass plant) will also feel firm and show a slight greenish or white color if you look closely.
If the grass is dead, it will pull up easily with little to no resistance. The crowns will be dry, brittle, and brown all the way through.

Common Causes of Brown Patches (That Aren’t Dormancy)

If your brown patches fail the tug test, here are the usual suspects:

Dollar Spot: Creates small, silver-dollar-sized brown patches that can merge.
Brown Patch Fungus: Causes circular brown areas with a darker “smoke ring” border, often in humid weather.
Dog Urine Damage: Results in small, round brown spots with unusually green, lush grass around the edges.
Insect Damage (like Sod Webworms): Grass pulls up easily because roots are eaten; you might see moths or larvae.
Soil Compaction: Leads to thin, brown areas where grass struggles to grow.

Reviving Dormant Bermuda Grass

If your lawn is simply dormant, patience is key. You can’t force it green in winter, but you can support its health for a strong spring return.

1. Adjust Your Watering

Dormant grass still needs some water. Its roots remain alive and need moisture to survive. Water about once every 3-4 weeks if there’s no rain or snow cover. A deep, infrequent watering is better than frequent light sprinkles. Aim for about half an inch of water each time.

2. Limit Winter Traffic

Dormant grass is more fragile. Heavy foot traffic, playing, or parking on it can damage the crowns and soil structure. Try to keep activity to a minimum until the spring green-up begins.

3. Hold Off on Fertilizer

Do not fertilize dormant Bermuda grass. Fertilizer stimulates growth, which a dormant lawn cannot support. This wastes product and can harm the plant or promote winter weed growth. Wait until the lawn is fully green and actively growing in late spring.

4. Control Winter Weeds

Weeds like poa annua can invade a dormant, thin lawn. Apply a pre-emergent herbicide in late fall to prevent weed seeds from sprouting. If weeds appear, spot-treat them carefully to avoid damaging the dormant grass.

Repairing Dead or Damaged Patches

For areas that are truly dead, you’ll need to repair them. The best time for this is in late spring or early summer when soil temperatures are consistently above 65°F.

Remove Dead Grass: Use a garden rake or a dethatcher to vigorously rake out all the dead material. You should see bare soil.
Loosen the Soil: Break up the top 2-3 inches of soil with a garden fork. This helps new roots establish. If the soil is very poor, add a thin layer of compost and mix it in.
Choose Your Repair Method: For small patches, use Bermuda grass seed (scalp the area first, sow seed, and keep moist). For faster results on larger areas, use Bermuda grass sod or plugs.
Plant and Water: Lay sod or plant plugs according to instructions. For seed or plugs, water lightly but frequently (2-3 times a day) for the first two weeks to keep the soil surface moist.
Encourage Spread: Once new grass is established, begin regular mowing and light fertilization to encourage the Bermuda to spread and fill in the patch completely.

Preventing Future Brown Patches

A healthy lawn is your best defense. Follow these practices during the growing season.

Mow Correctly

Bermuda grass likes to be short. Mow at a height of 1 to 2 inches. Never remove more than one-third of the grass blade in a single mowing. Keep your mower blades sharp; dull blades tear the grass, creating brown tips and entry points for disease.

Water Deeply and Infrequently

Water your lawn deeply, encouraging deep root growth. Aim for about 1 inch of water per week, including rainfall. Water early in the morning so the grass dries quickly, which helps prevent fungal diseases.

Fertilize on Schedule

Feed your Bermuda grass during its active growth period (late spring through summer). Use a balanced fertilizer. A soil test is the best way to know exactly what nutrients your lawn needs, so you don’t over or under apply.

Aerate Annually

Soil compaction is a major cause of thin, stressed grass. Core aerate your lawn once a year, preferably in late spring or early summer. This allows air, water, and nutrients to reach the roots more effectively.

Dethatch When Needed

Bermuda grass can produce a thick layer of thatch (dead stems and roots). If the thatch layer is over half an inch thick, dethatch in late spring. This prevents water and fertilizer from being blocked.

Seasonal Checklist for a Green Bermuda Lawn

Spring (Green-up): Apply pre-emergent for weeds. Lightly fertilize after full green-up. Begin regular mowing.
Summer (Peak Growth): Mow frequently. Fertilize as needed. Water deeply during dry spells. Watch for signs of pests or fungus.
Fall (Slowdown): Apply final pre-emergent for winter weeds. Gradually reduce watering. Mow as growth slows.
Winter (Dormancy): Water occasionally if dry. Limit traffic. Plan for spring repairs.

FAQ: Bermuda Grass Troubleshooting

Why is my Bermuda grass still brown in spring?

Soil temperature is the key. Bermuda needs warm soil (65°F+) to wake up. If spring is cool, dormancy lasts longer. Be patient. Avoid heavy nitrogen fertilizer too early, as it can promote disease.

Can I paint or dye my dormant brown lawn?

Yes, lawn colorants are a safe, temporary option for winter green-up. They don’t harm the grass. It’s a cosmetic fix often used for homes on the market or special events during dormancy.

How short should I mow Bermuda before winter?

A slightly shorter cut (around 1 inch) in late fall can help prevent matting and snow mold. But avoid scalping it right before winter, as this can stress the plant. Just do your final mow at your normal low setting.

Should I water brown patches more?

Only if the cause is drought. Overwatering dormant grass does nothing. Overwatering a diseased lawn makes the fungus worse. Always identify the cause first. If it’s dry and dormant, follow the monthly deep watering rule.

Is it okay to overseed Bermuda with ryegrass for winter green?

This is common but can stress your Bermuda. The ryegrass competes for resources in spring, potentially delaying your Bermuda’s green-up. If you do overseed, mow the ryegrass very short in late spring to allow sunlight to reach the Bermuda crowns.

Dealing with bermuda grass brown patches is mostly about observation and timing. Learning the difference between dormancy and damage saves you time and effort. By providing proper care in the growing season and practicing patience in the winter, you’ll maintain a resilient, green lawn that can handle the seasons. Remember, a little brown in winter is just your tough Bermuda grass taking a well-deserved rest.