Anthurium Wendlingeri

If you’re looking for a truly unique houseplant that feels like a piece of the rainforest, you need to meet the anthurium wendlingeri. This exotic tropical foliage plant is unlike any other anthurium you’ve seen, with long, ribbon-like leaves that twist and curl in a mesmerizing display.

It’s a statement plant for serious collectors. While it requires a bit more attention than a pothos, its stunning appearance is worth the effort. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know to keep your anthurium wendlingeri thriving.

Native to the rainforests of Central and South America, this epiphytic plant grows on trees in nature. It doesn’t produce the classic heart-shaped flowers. Instead, it has a unique inflorescence—a slender, tail-like spadix. But let’s be honest, you’re here for those incredible leaves.

They can grow over three feet long, emerging a bright green and maturing to a deep, lush green. The way they dangle and spiral gives the plant an elegant, architectural quality. It’s a slow grower, so patience is key, but each new leaf is a special event.

Ideal Growing Conditions

Getting the environment right is the most important step for success. Think about the plant’s natural habitat: warm, humid, and dappled light.

Light Requirements

Bright, indirect light is perfect. An east-facing window is ideal. A few feet back from a south or west window with a sheer curtain also works well.

Avoid direct sun, which will scorch the delicate leaves.
Too little light will result in very slow growth and fewer leaves.
Rotate the pot occasionally for even growth, as the leaves will reach toward the light.

Temperature & Humidity

This is a tropical plant, so it loves warmth and moisture in the air. Aim for temperatures between 65°F and 80°F (18°C – 27°C). Keep it away from cold drafts, air conditioners, and heating vents.

Humidity is crucial. Try to maintain 60% humidity or higher. Here are some practical ways to increase humidity:

Use a humidifier. It’s the most effective and consistent method.
Place the pot on a pebble tray filled with water (ensure the pot sits above the water line).
Group it with other humidity-loving plants to create a microclimate.
A well-lit bathroom can be a great spot if the light is right.

Planting and Potting Mix

Because it’s an epiphyte, its roots need air and excellent drainage. A standard potting soil will suffocate it and lead to root rot.

You need a chunky, airy mix. A common and effective recipe is:

30% Orchid bark (for structure and aeration)
30% Coconut coir or sphagnum moss (for moisture retention)
20% Perlite (for drainage)
20% Horticultural charcoal (to keep the mix fresh)

You can also use a high-quality aroid mix. The pot is important too. Choose a pot with multiple drainage holes. A slotted orchid pot or a terracotta pot can be helpful, as they allow extra air flow to the roots.

Watering and Feeding

Watering is where most people go wrong. The goal is to keep the mix lightly moist but never soggy.

Check the top few inches of the mix with your finger. If it feels dry, it’s time to water.
Water thoroughly until it runs freely from the drainage holes.
Allow all excess water to drain away completely. Never let the plant sit in a saucer of water.
In winter, reduce watering frequency as growth slows.

Fertilize during the active growing season (spring and summer). Use a balanced, liquid fertilizer diluted to half strength every 4-6 weeks. Do not fertilize in the fall and winter. Over-fertilizing can damage the sensitive roots, so when in doubt, use less.

Pruning and Maintenance

Pruning is mostly about removing any leaves that have yellowed or died naturally. Use clean, sharp scissors to cut the leaf stem near the base. This keeps the plant looking tidy and directs energy to new growth.

You can gently wipe the leaves with a damp cloth to remove dust, which helps the plant breathe and photosynthesize efficiently. Be gentle, as the leaves can be delicate. Avoid leaf shine products, as they can clog the pores.

Propagation

The most reliable way to propagate anthurium wendlingeri is by division when you repot. This is best done in spring.

Carefully remove the plant from its pot.
Gently tease apart a section of the plant that has its own roots and at least one or two leaves.
Pot the new division in its own container with fresh aroid mix.
Keep it warm and humid as it establishes. Propagation from seed is possible but extremely slow and challenging for home growers.

Common Problems and Solutions

Even with great care, you might encounter an issue. Here’s how to troubleshoot.

Yellowing Leaves

This is often a sign of overwatering. Check the roots. If they are brown and mushy, it’s root rot. You’ll need to repot the plant, cutting away any rotten roots with sterile tools and using fresh mix. Yellowing can also indicate a nutrient deficiency or, less commonly, underwatering.

Brown Leaf Tips or Edges

This is almost always due to low humidity. Increase the moisture in the air around your plant using the methods described earlier. Sometimes, it can also be caused by a buildup of salts from tap water or fertilizer—using distilled or rainwater can help.

Pests

Watch out for common houseplant pests like spider mites, mealybugs, and scale. They love the thin leaves. Inspect your plant regularly, especially under the leaves.

For minor infestations, wipe leaves with a cloth dipped in a mix of water and a little mild soap.
For more persistent problems, use an insecticidal soap or neem oil spray, following the product instructions carefully.
Isolate any affected plant to prevent the pests from spreading.

Repotting Your Plant

Anthurium wendlingeri likes to be slightly root-bound and doesn’t need frequent repotting. Plan to repot every 2-3 years, or when you see roots circling the pot or growing out of the drainage holes.

Choose a new pot only 1-2 inches larger in diameter than the old one.
Gently loosen the root ball and shake off some of the old mix.
Place the plant in the new pot and fill in around it with your fresh, chunky aroid mix.
Water it well and return it to its usual spot. It may look a little sad for a week or two as it settles in.

FAQ

Is Anthurium wendlingeri rare?
Yes, it is considered a rarer species compared to common anthuriums like the flamingo flower. You’ll likely need to seek it out from specialty nurseries or online plant shops.

How fast does this anthurium grow?
It is a slow-growing plant. Don’t expect rapid growth. In ideal conditions, you might get 2-4 new leaves per year, which is normal and healthy for this species.

Can I grow Anthurium wendlingeri in a terrarium?
Due to its potential size and need for excellent air circulation, it is not an ideal terrarium plant. A large, open terrarium or cloche might work for a young plant, but it will quickly outgrow the space.

Why are the new leaves on my plant so small?
Small new leaves can be a sign of insufficient light or a lack of nutrients. Ensure it’s getting enough bright, indirect light and that you are feeding it appropriately during the growing season.

Is it pet friendly?
No. Like most aroids, anthurium wendlingeri contains calcium oxalate crystals, which are toxic to cats and dogs if ingested. It’s best to keep this plant out of reach of curious pets.

Caring for an anthurium wendlingeri is a rewarding journey for any plant enthusiast. Its unique foliage brings a touch of the exotic into your home. By providing the right light, warmth, humidity, and a well-draining mix, you’ll be able to enjoy this spectacular tropical foliage plant for many years to come. Remember, observation is your best tool—pay attention to what your plant is telling you, and adjust your care as needed.