If you’re looking for a truly special houseplant, the anthurium watermaliense is a rare and captivating tropical. Its dark, dramatic blooms make it a standout in any collection. But this isn’t a plant you’ll find at every garden center. It requires specific care to thrive. This guide gives you the clear, practical steps you need to succeed with this stunning plant.
Anthurium Watermaliense
Often called the “Black Anthurium,” this plant is famous for its deep purple, almost black spathes. The flowers are long-lasting and have a sleek, velvety appearance. Unlike common anthuriums, its foliage is equally impressive with large, elongated, dark green leaves. It’s a statement piece that commands attention.
Where to Find and Buy This Rare Plant
You won’t likely find this anthurium at a big-box store. Your best bets are specialized online nurseries, rare plant auctions, or local plant swaps. Always check the seller’s reviews. Look for plants with healthy, unblemished leaves and strong roots. Be prepared for a higher price tag due to its rarity.
- Specialist Online Retailers: These shops often import rare aroids directly.
- Etsy and eBay: Use caution and buy from highly-rated sellers with photos of the actual plant.
- Local Rare Plant Societies: Joining a group can connect you with trusted growers.
Perfect Light Conditions for Growth
This plant needs bright, indirect light to flourish. Think of the dappled sunlight under a jungle canopy. Direct sun will scorch its beautiful leaves, causing yellow or brown patches. A north or east-facing window is often ideal. If you only have south or west light, use a sheer curtain to filter it.
Signs of Incorrect Light
Watch your plant’s leaves for clues. Leggy growth, small leaves, and no flowers mean it needs more light. Pale or scorched leaves mean it’s getting to much direct sun. Adjust its position slowly to avoid shock.
Watering: The Most Critical Step
Overwatering is the fastest way to lose an Anthurium watermaliense. It needs consistently moist but never soggy soil. The goal is to mimic the humid, well-draining forest floor.
- Check the soil weekly. Stick your finger about an inch deep.
- Water thoroughly only when the top inch feels dry.
- Use lukewarm water and pour until it runs freely from the drainage holes.
- Empty the saucer underneath after 15 minutes to prevent root rot.
Soil and Potting Mix Recipe
A chunky, airy mix is non-negotiable. Its roots need oxygen and must dry slightly between waterings. A standard potting soil will hold to much moisture and cause rot.
Here’s a simple mix you can make:
- 40% Orchid Bark (for aeration and structure)
- 30% Coconut Coir or Sphagnum Moss (for moisture retention)
- 20% Perlite (for extra drainage)
- 10% Horticultural Charcoal (to keep the mix fresh)
Repot every 2-3 years, or when you see roots circling the pot’s bottom.
Humidity and Temperature Needs
As a tropical plant, it loves humidity. Aim for 60-80% if possible. Average home humidity (around 40%) is often to low. Here are some ways to increase it:
- Use a humidifier placed near the plant.
- Set the pot on a pebble tray filled with water.
- Group it with other humidity-loving plants.
Keep temperatures between 65°F and 80°F (18°C – 27°C). Avoid cold drafts and sudden temperature drops below 60°F (15°C).
Fertilizing for Healthy Leaves and Flowers
Feed your plant during the active growing season (spring and summer). Use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half strength. Apply it every 4-6 weeks. In fall and winter, reduce feeding to once every 8-10 weeks, or stop altogether if growth slows. Over-fertilizing can burn the roots.
Common Problems and Their Solutions
Even with great care, issues can arise. Here’s how to troubleshoot.
Yellowing Leaves
This is usually a sign of overwatering. Check your soil moisture and drainage. Ensure the pot has holes and the mix isn’t to dense. Sometimes, lower leaves yellow naturally as the plant grows.
Brown Leaf Tips or Edges
This often points to low humidity or a buildup of salts/minerals from tap water. Try using distilled, rainwater, or filtered water. Increase humidity around the plant.
Pests
Watch for spider mites, mealybugs, and scale. Wipe leaves regularly with a damp cloth. For infestations, treat with insecticidal soap or neem oil, making sure to cover the undersides of leaves.
Propagation: How to Make More Plants
You can propagate Anthurium watermaliense by division during repotting. This is the simplest and most reliable method.
- Gently remove the plant from its pot.
- Carefully seperate a section that has its own roots and at least 2-3 leaves.
- Pot the new division in your fresh aroid mix.
- Keep it warm and humid as it establishes.
FAQ About the Black Anthurium
Is Anthurium watermaliense poisonous?
Yes, like all anthuriums, it contains calcium oxalate crystals. Keep it away from pets and children who might chew on it.
Why isn’t my plant flowering?
Insufficient light is the most common reason. Ensure it gets enough bright, indirect light. Mature, healthy plants with good care are more likely to bloom.
How often should I mist the leaves?
Misting provides only a temporary humidity boost and can promote fungal issues if water sits in the crown. Using a humidifier or pebble tray is a more effective long-term solution.
Can I grow it in a terrarium?
Due to its eventual large size, it’s not ideal for most closed terrariums. However, it can do very well in a large, open terrarium or greenhouse cabinet with excellent airflow.
What’s the difference between this and ‘Black Queen’ or ‘Black Beauty’?
Anthurium watermaliense is a distinct species. ‘Black Queen’ and ‘Black Beauty’ are often hybrid cultivars that may have different leaf shapes, growth habits, and flower forms, though they share the dark bloom trait.