If you’re looking for a truly spectacular houseplant, the Anthurium veitchii is a top contender. Often called the king of anthuriums, its dramatic foliage is unlike any other. This guide will help you understand how to care for this stunning plant and keep it thriving in your home.
Anthurium Veitchii – Stunning King of Anthuriums
This title is well-earned. The Anthurium veitchii, or King Anthurium, is famous for its massively long, corrugated leaves that can develop a beautiful rippled texture. As the plant matures, these leaves can reach several feet in length, creating a breathtaking display.
What Makes It So Special?
Its most striking feature are the leaves. They are not flat like many plants. Instead, they develop deep, pleated ridges that run from the center vein to the edge. This texture, combined with a thick, almost leathery feel, gives the plant a prehistoric and royal appearance.
- Leaf Structure: The leaves are lance-shaped and heavily corrugated. New leaves emerge a bright, coppery red before maturing to a deep, glossy green.
- Size: In optimal conditions, leaves can grow over 3 feet long. The plant itself can become quite wide as it matures.
- Growth Habit: It is an epiphyte, meaning in nature it grows on other trees rather than in soil. This is key to understanding its care needs.
Ideal Growing Conditions
Recreating the plant’s natural habitat is the secret to success. It comes from the rainforests of Colombia, where it enjoys warm, humid, and bright but filtered conditions.
Light Requirements
Bright, indirect light is perfect. Think of the dappled sunlight under a jungle canopy.
- Avoid direct sun, especially harsh afternoon rays, which will scorch the beautiful leaves.
- An east-facing window is often ideal. A south or west window can work if the plant is set back or filtered by a sheer curtain.
- If the leaves are pale or the plant isn’t producing new growth, it might need a bit more light.
Temperature & Humidity
This is a tropical plant that dislikes the cold. Keep it in a warm spot away from drafts.
- Temperature: Aim for 65°F to 80°F (18°C to 27°C). Never let it sit below 60°F (15°C).
- Humidity: High humidity (70% or more) is crucial for healthy, large leaves. Low humidity leads to brown, crispy leaf edges.
To increase humidity, you can use a humidifier, place the pot on a pebble tray with water, or group it with other plants. A bathroom with a window can be a great spot if the light is right.
Planting and Potting Mix
Because it’s an epiphyte, its roots need air and excellent drainage. A standard potting soil will suffocate it and cause root rot.
You need a chunky, airy mix. Here’s a simple recipe you can make:
- 1 part high-quality orchid bark (for chunkiness and air flow)
- 1 part coconut coir or sphagnum moss (for moisture retention)
- 1 part perlite or horticultural charcoal (for drainage and aeration)
You can also add a handful of worm castings for a gentle nutrient boost. The pot is important too. Always use a pot with multiple drainage holes. Aroid pots, which have slits on the sides, are excellent for these plants.
Watering and Feeding Your King
Watering correctly is probably the most important task. The goal is to keep the mix lightly moist but never soggy.
Watering Routine
Stick your finger about an inch into the mix. If it feels dry, it’s time to water. Water thoroughly until it runs freely from the drainage holes, and let all the excess water drain away completely. Never let the plant sit in a saucer of water.
Watering frequency will change with the seasons. You’ll water more in the warm, bright summer months and less in the darker winter. Always check the soil first; don’t water on a strict schedule.
Fertilizing for Growth
During the active growing season (spring and summer), feed your anthurium every 4-6 weeks. Use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer diluted to half the recommended strength. A fertilizer formulated for orchids or aroids works very well.
In fall and winter, reduce feeding to once every 8-10 weeks or stop altogether. Over-fertilizing can damage the sensitive roots, so when in doubt, use less.
Common Problems and Solutions
Even with great care, you might encounter an issue. Here’s how to troubleshoot common problems.
Yellowing Leaves
This can have a few causes. The most common is overwatering. Check your potting mix and make sure it’s draining properly. Older leaves naturally yellow and die off occasionally, which is normal.
Brown Leaf Tips or Edges
This is almost always a sign of low humidity. Increase the moisture in the air around your plant. It could also be caused by using tap water with high mineral content; try using rainwater, distilled, or filtered water if possible.
Pests
Watch out for common houseplant pests like spider mites, mealybugs, and scale. They can hide in the folds of the leaves. Wipe the leaves regularly with a damp cloth to keep them clean and inspect for pests. If you find any, treat the plant with insecticidal soap or neem oil.
Propagation: How to Make More Plants
Propagating an Anthurium veitchii is usually done by division when you repot it. This is best done in the spring.
- Gently remove the plant from its pot and carefully shake away the old potting mix.
- Look for natural divisions in the plant—separate stems with their own root systems.
- Using clean, sharp scissors or a knife, carefully cut to separate the sections, ensuring each has healthy roots attached.
- Pot each new division into its own container with fresh, chunky aroid mix.
- Keep the new plants in a warm, humid spot and water lightly until you see new growth, which indicates the roots have established.
Propagation from seed or cuttings is much more difficult and slow, so division is the recommended method for most home gardeners.
Repotting Your Mature Plant
These plants don’t need frequent repotting and actually like to be a bit root-bound. Repot every 2-3 years, or when you see roots growing out of the drainage holes.
- Choose a new pot that is only 1-2 inches larger in diameter than the old one.
- Gently loosen the root ball and remove any dead or mushy roots.
- Place the plant in the new pot with fresh mix, filling in around the sides.
- Water it in well and return it to its usual spot. It may look a little sad for a week or two as it adjusts.
Frequently Asked Questions
How fast does the King Anthurium grow?
It is not a fast-growing plant, especially when young. With perfect conditions, you might get 2-4 new leaves per year. Patience is key with this species.
Why are the new leaves on my Anthurium veitchii smaller?
This often points to insufficient light or a lack of nutrients. Try moving it to a brighter location (without direct sun) and ensure you are feeding it appropriately during the growing season.
Can I grow this anthurium in a terrarium?
While it loves humidity, a mature veitchii gets far to large for most terrariums. A large, clear greenhouse cabinet or a humid room is a much better option for providing the moisture it needs without confinement.
Does the King Anthurium flower?
Yes, it can produce a classic anthurium inflorescence (a spathe and spadix), but it is rare indoors and the flowers are not particularly showy compared to the spectacular foliage. The leaves are the main attraction here.
Is it a difficult plant to care for?
It has more specific needs than a pothos or snake plant, so it’s considered intermediate level. If you can provide consistent warmth, high humidity, and the right potting mix, you can be successful. Paying attention to its watering needs is the biggest hurdle for most people.
Caring for an Anthurium veitchii is a rewarding experience. Its majestic presence adds a touch of the tropics to any space. By focusing on its core needs—a chunky potting mix, careful watering, bright indirect light, and plenty of humidity—you’ll be able to enjoy this stunning king of anthuriums for many years to come. Remember to check the soil before watering and don’t be discouraged by slow growth; each new, giant leaf is a true achievement.