When To Plant Cabbage In Zone 8b

Getting your cabbage planting timing right is the single most important step for a great harvest in zone 8b. Knowing exactly when to plant cabbage in zone 8b makes all the difference between crisp, firm heads and disappointing results.

Our mild winters and long growing seasons are a huge advantage. You can actually grow cabbage during the cooler parts of the year, which it loves. This guide gives you the clear, simple schedule you need for success.

You have two main planting windows: one in late winter for a spring harvest, and another in late summer for a fall or winter harvest. The fall planting is often easier and more productive because cabbage thrives as the weather cools.

Spring Planting Schedule

For a spring harvest, you need to get a very early start. Cabbage seedlings can handle a light frost, which works to your advantage.

Start Seeds Indoors: Begin 10-12 weeks before your last average spring frost date. For most of zone 8b, this is between late December and early February.
Transplant Outdoors: Move your sturdy seedlings into the garden 4-6 weeks before that last frost date. This is typically from mid-February to early March.
Direct Sowing: You can also sow seeds directly in the garden in late February or early March, but indoor starts give you a head start.

Fall Planting Schedule (The Easier Option)

Fall is the prime time for cabbage in our zone. The heads mature in cool weather, which improves flavor and texture.

Start Seeds Indoors: Calculate backwards from your first average fall frost date. Start seeds indoors 12-14 weeks before that date. For zone 8b, this is usually in July or early August.
Transplant Outdoors: Get those seedlings in the ground 8-10 weeks before the first fall frost. Aim for late August through September.
Key Tip: Provide afternoon shade for young transplants to protect them from the intense summer heat while they get established.

Understanding Your Zone 8b Frost Dates

Your local frost dates are your best guide. They can vary a bit across the zone.

Average Last Spring Frost: Typically between March 15th and April 1st.
Average First Fall Frost: Typically between November 1st and November 15th.

Check with a local nursery or your county extension service for the most precise dates in your specific town. This is worth the quick search.

Choosing the Right Cabbage Varieties

Picking varieties suited to the season improves your results. Seed catalogs and packets will often indicate “early” or “storage” types.

Great Varieties for Spring Planting

Early Jersey Wakefield: A pointed, early heirloom that forms heads quickly before heat arrives.
Gonzales: A compact, early hybrid perfect for smaller gardens and quicker spring harvests.
Parel: A very fast-maturing mini cabbage that’s ideal for beating the heat.

Excellent Varieties for Fall Planting

Danish Ballhead: A reliable, solid storage cabbage that makes large, dense heads in the fall.
January King: A beautiful, frost-hardy variety with bluish-purple leaves that gets sweeter after a frost.
Storage No. 4: Lives up to its name, perfect for long-term keeping after a fall harvest.

Step-by-Step Planting Guide

Follow these steps to get your cabbage off to the strongest start.

Prepare the Soil: Cabbage needs fertile, well-draining soil. Work in 2-3 inches of compost or aged manure a few weeks before planting. The soil pH should be slightly acidic to neutral (6.5-7.0).
Hardening Off: Never skip this! Over 7-10 days, gradually expose indoor-started seedlings to outdoor sun and wind. Start with just an hour of morning sun and increase daily.
Spacing is Critical: Plant seedlings 12-24 inches apart in rows that are 24-36 inches apart. Crowding leads to smaller heads. Give them room to grow.
Planting Depth: Set transplants slightly deeper than they were in their pots, up to their first set of true leaves. This encourages a sturdier stem.
Water and Mulch: Water thoroughly after planting. Apply a 2-inch layer of organic mulch (like straw or shredded leaves) to conserve moisture and suppress weeds.

Essential Care Tips for Success

Consistent care prevents problems and leads to perfect heads.

Watering: Cabbage needs consistent moisture. Aim for 1-1.5 inches of water per week, more during dry spells. Water at the base to keep leaves dry and prevent disease.
Fertilizing: They are heavy feeders. Side-dress with a balanced fertilizer or compost tea 3 weeks after transplanting and again when heads begin to form.
Pest Watch: Common pests include cabbage loopers, imported cabbageworms, and aphids. Check the undersides of leaves regularly. Use floating row covers as a barrier or apply organic controls like Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) if needed.
Disease Prevention: Good spacing, crop rotation, and avoiding overhead watering are your best defenses against fungal diseases like black rot and clubroot.

Harvesting and Storing Your Cabbage

Harvest time is the best reward! Heads are ready when they feel firm and solid to the touch.

Use a sharp knife to cut the head from the base of the plant.
For fall crops, you can often leave them in the garden through several frosts, which can sweeten the flavor.
After harvesting, you can remove the entire plant or leave the outer leaves and base in the ground; sometimes you’ll get a few smaller secondary heads.
Store unwashed heads in a cool, humid place like a refrigerator crisper drawer or root cellar. Properly stored, they can last for months.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

Can I plant cabbage in early spring in zone 8b?
Yes, but timing is tight. You must start seeds very early indoors or use transplants, aiming to get them in the ground by late winter so they mature before summer heat arrives, which can cause them to bolt (flower prematurely).

What is the latest I can plant cabbage for a fall harvest?
You should aim to get transplants in the ground by mid-September at the latest in most parts of zone 8b. This gives them enough time to form a solid head before growth slows to a crawl in the deep winter cold.

Can cabbage survive a freeze in zone 8b?
Established cabbage plants can handle light frosts and even freezes quite well. In fact, a light frost can improve there flavor. A hard, prolonged freeze (below 25°F) may damage the outer leaves, but the inner head often remains protected and edible.

Why are my cabbage heads splitting?
Splitting is usually caused by uneven watering, especially a heavy rain or deep watering after a dry period. Maintaining consistent soil moisture is the key to preventing this. If a head is mature and you expect a lot of rain, you can twist the plant slightly to break some roots and slow water uptake.

Should I rotate where I plant cabbage?
Absolutely. Always practice crop rotation. Do not plant cabbage or other brassicas (like broccoli, kale, or Brussels sprouts) in the same spot more than once every three to four years. This is crucial for preventing a buildup of soil-borne pests and diseases like clubroot.

By following this simple calender and tips, you’ll be able to enjoy homegrown cabbage for much of the year. The key is working with our zone’s unique climate, using the cool seasons to your advantage. With a little planning, you’ll have a steady supply of this garden staple.