How To Prune Everbearing Raspberries

If you want a healthy, productive patch, learning how to prune everbearing raspberries is the most important skill you can master. These fruitful plants have a unique growth habit that, with the right cuts, can give you two generous harvests in a single year.

Pruning might seem intimidating, but it’s really about understanding their simple cycle. Everbearing raspberries, also called fall-bearing or primocane-fruiting, produce fruit on new canes (primocanes) in their first fall and then again on those same canes in the following summer. Proper pruning manages this cycle, prevents disease, and keeps your patch from becoming a wild, thorny mess. Let’s get your shears ready.

Your pruning strategy depends entirely on your harvest goals. Do you want one large fall crop, or a smaller fall crop followed by a summer harvest? The method you choose dictates when and how you’ll cut.

Understanding Your Canes: Primocanes vs. Floricanes

First, know the terms. This makes instructions much clearer.

Primocane: This is a brand new, green cane that grows from the ground each spring. On everbearing varieties, it will grow and produce fruit at its tips in the same fall.
Floricane: After a primocane survives the winter, it becomes a floricane the following spring. It’s now brown and woody. It will produce a summer crop on its lower branches, then die.

Method 1: For Two Crops (Double Cropping)

This method gives you a modest fall harvest and a larger summer harvest. It’s best in regions with mild winters where the cane tips survive cold weather.

In Late Fall / After Fall Harvest: Once the primocanes have finished their fall fruiting, only prune off the top portion of the cane that bore fruit. Just cut off the spent tip.
In Early Spring: Before new growth starts, do a thorough clean-up. Remove any canes that appear weak, damaged, or diseased. Thin the remaining canes, leaving about 4-6 of the strongest, healthiest floricanes per linear foot of row.
In Summer, After Fruiting: Immediately after the floricanes finish their summer crop, cut them all the way down to the ground. They are done and will not produce again. This opens up space for the new primocanes growing in.

Method 2: For One Large Fall Crop

Most gardeners prefer this simpler method. It yields a single, abundant, and often earlier fall harvest. It’s also excellent for disease control, as you remove all canes annually.

In Late Fall or Late Winter: After the fall harvest is complete, or before spring growth begins, cut every single cane down to ground level.
That’s It: All new growth in spring will be vigorous primocanes. These will fruit heavily in the fall without the competition of older canes. The harvest is often earlier because the plant puts all its energy into new growth.

Why the One-Crop Method is Often Better

Disease Prevention: Removing all canes eliminates overwintering sites for pests and fungi.
Simpler: No need to distinguish between cane types in spring.
No Winter Damage: You don’t have to worry about cane tips dying back in cold climates.
Larger Berries: The plant’s energy is focused on one set of canes.

Essential Pruning Tools & Tips

Using the right tools makes the job easier and healthier for your plants.

Bypass Pruners: Use sharp, clean bypass pruners for clean cuts that heal fast. Disinfect them with a bleach solution or rubbing alcohol between plants to stop disease spread.
Thick Gloves: Always wear sturdy gloves to protect your hands from thorns.
Cut Close: When removing a whole cane, cut it as flush to the soil line as possible without damaging the crown. Leaving stubs can invite rot.
Thin for Airflow: Even with the one-crop method, you may need to thin new primocanes in late spring. Aim for 4-6 inches between canes to allow good air circulation, which prevents fungal issues.

What to Do With Pruned Canes

Never leave the cut canes lying in the berry patch. They can harbor disease and insects. Gather them up and either burn them (if local regulations allow) or dispose of them with your yard waste. Do not compost them unless you have a very hot compost system that will kill any pathogens.

Common Pruning Mistakes to Avoid

Pruning at the Wrong Time: Cutting in mid-summer when canes are actively growing can stress the plant. Stick to late fall, winter, or early spring.
Not Thinning Enough: Overcrowded canes compete for light and nutrients, leading to smaller fruit and disease. Be ruthless with your thinning for the best results.
Confusing Cane Types: If you’re double-cropping, mark your floricanes with ribbon in the fall so you know which ones to leave for the summer harvest.
Using Dull Tools: Crushing the cane instead of cutting it cleanly creates a wound that is slow to heal and suceptible to infection.

Year-Round Care for Healthy Growth

Pruning is just one part of the picture. For truly healthy plants, combine it with these practices.

Spring Feeding: Apply a balanced, organic fertilizer or compost around the base of plants in early spring as growth begins.
Consistent Watering: Raspberries need about 1-2 inches of water per week, especially when fruit is developing. Drip irrigation is ideal to keep foliage dry.
Mulching: Apply a 2-3 inch layer of straw or wood chips around plants to supress weeds, retain moisture, and protect roots.
Support System: Use a simple T-post and wire trellis to keep canes upright. This makes pruning, harvesting, and air circulation much better.

FAQ: Your Everbearing Raspberry Questions

When is the absolutly best time to prune everbearing raspberries?

For the one-crop method, late winter is ideal. For the two-crop method, prune tips in late fall and remove old floricanes right after their summer harvest.

Can I prune everbearing raspberries in the summer?

You should only prune in summer to remove dead floricanes after they have fruited. Avoid summer pruning of green, growing primocanes.

How short should I cut the canes?

When doing a complete cut-back, take them down to about 1 inch above the soil. You want to remove the entire aerial portion of the plant.

Why are my newly pruned raspberries not growing well?

Check that you didn’t damage the crown (the base of the plant) with your cuts. Also, ensure they have enough water and sunlight. Poor soil nutrition could also be a factor.

What’s the difference between everbearing and summer-bearing raspberries?

Everbearing fruit on first-year wood (primocanes). Summer-bearing varieties only fruit on second-year wood (floricanes), so you never cut all canes down at once with those types. The pruning is completely different.

Mastering how to prune everbearing raspberries is the key to unlocking their full potential. By choosing your method and making clean, timely cuts, you’ll enjoy healthier plants and significantly more fruit for years to come. Remember, a well-pruned patch is a happy and productive one.