Why Are My Succulents Turning Yellow

If you’re wondering ‘why are my succulents turning yellow,’ you’re not alone. This is a common sign that your plant is stressed, and it’s usually telling you about a simple care mistake. The good news is that yellowing is often reversible if you catch it early. Let’s look at the most likely reasons and how to fix them, so you can get your succulent back to its healthy, green self.

Yellow leaves on a succulent are a distress signal. Unlike a tree in autumn, this isn’t a normal change. It means the plant’s cells are breaking down, often due to water issues, light problems, or nutrient needs. Identifying the specific yellow pattern is your first clue to solving the problem.

1. Overwatering: The #1 Culprit

This is far and away the most common reason succulents turn yellow. Their leaves store water, so they need the soil to dry out completely between drinks. Constantly wet roots suffocate and rot, and that rot travels up the plant, turning leaves mushy and yellow.

Signs: Lower leaves turn yellow and feel soft, mushy, or translucent. The stem may also look black or brown.
The Fix: Stop watering immediately. Check the roots. If they’re brown and slimy, you need to act fast.
1. Remove the plant from its pot and gently brush away the wet soil.
2. With sterilized scissors, cut away all rotten roots and any yellow, mushy leaves.
3. Let the plant air dry on a paper towel for a day or two.
4. Repot in fresh, dry succulent/cactus mix and a pot with a drainage hole.
5. Wait at least a week before giving a small sip of water.

2. Underwatering: A Less Common Cause

While succulents are drought-tolerant, they do need water eventually. Severe lack of water causes the plant to consume the moisture in its own leaves, leading to shriveled, crispy yellow or brown leaves, usually starting at the bottom.

Signs: Leaves are thin, wrinkled, crispy, and yellow or brown. The entire plant may look deflated.
The Fix: Give it a thorough soak. Water the soil until it runs freely out the drainage hole. The leaves should plump up in a few days. If they don’t, the roots may have dried up and died, requiring propagation from healthy leaves.

3. Poor Drainage: Overwatering’s Partner

Even with perfect watering, the wrong soil or pot can trap moisture. Regular potting soil holds too much water, and pots without drainage holes are a death sentence for succulents.

Signs: Similar to overwatering—yellow, mushy leaves and soil that stays damp for weeks.
The Fix: Always use a gritty, fast-draining mix. You can buy cactus/succulent soil or make your own by mixing regular potting soil with perlite or pumice (50/50). And never, ever use a pot without a hole in the bottom.

4. Lack of Sunlight (Etiolation and Yellowing)

Succulents love bright light. Without enough, they can’t produce sufficient chlorophyll, which gives them their green color. This can cause pale or yellowish leaves. The plant will also stretch out awkwardly, a condition called etiolation.

Signs: Overall pale or yellowish color, stretched-out stem with wide gaps between leaves.
The Fix: Gradually move your succulent to a brighter spot. A south or east-facing window is ideal. Introduce more light slowly over a week to avoid sunburn. For severely stretched plants, you can behead the top and propagate it.

5. Too Much Direct Sun (Sunburn)

Yes, they love sun, but a sudden move from indoors to blazing afternoon sun can shock them. Sunburn causes permanent damage in the form of bleached, yellow, or white patches, or crispy brown spots.

Signs: Scorched, discolored patches on the leaves facing the sun. The patches are dry and don’t spread like rot does.
The Fix: Move the plant to a spot with bright but indirect light. Sunburned leaves won’t recover, but you can leave them if they’re not too unsightly, or gently pull them off once the plant has grown new, healthy growth.

6. Nutrient Deficiency or Fertilizer Burn

Succulents need very little fertilizer. However, a severe lack of nutrients (like nitrogen) can cause overall yellowing. More commonly, too much fertilizer “burns” the roots, causing yellow or brown leaf tips and edges.

Signs (Deficiency): Overall pale yellowing, especially on new growth, with slow growth.
Signs (Burn): Yellow or brown crispy leaf tips and edges, sometimes with a crust of fertilizer on the soil surface.
The Fix: For deficiency, use a diluted, balanced succulent fertilizer once at the start of the growing season. For burn, flush the soil with plenty of water to dissolve and wash away excess salts, ensuring excellent drainage afterwards.

7. Pest Infestations

Sap-sucking pests like mealybugs or spider mites can weaken a plant, causing yellow speckling or patches where they’ve been feeding. Check closely, especially under leaves and in crevices.

Signs: Tiny cottony masses (mealybugs) or fine webbing (spider mites), along with stippled yellow marks on leaves.
The Fix: Isolate the plant. Wipe pests off with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. For larger infestations, spray with insecticidal soap or neem oil, covering all leaf surfaces. Repeat weekly until gone.

Quick Diagnosis Chart: What Type of Yellow Is It?

Yellow & Mushy/Soggy: Almost certainly overwatering or root rot.
Yellow & Crispy/Shriveled: Likely underwatering or sunburn.
Yellow & Stretched: Not enough sunlight.
Yellow Patches/Spots: Check for sunburn or pest damage.
Overall Pale Yellow: Could be hunger (nutrient deficiency) or the start of etiolation.

Prevention: The Best Cure

The key to healthy succulents is mimicking their natural, dry environment. Follow these simple habits to prevent yellowing before it starts:

Water on Signs of Thirst, Not a Schedule: Wait until the soil is bone-dry AND the leaves show slight wrinkling.
Use the Right Tools: Always plant in a gritty mix and a pot with a drainage hole. A moisture meter can help beginners.
Provide Consistent, Bright Light: Most succulents thrive with at least 6 hours of bright, indirect light daily.
Leave Them Be: Succulents prefer neglect over fussy care. Resist the urge to overwater or over-fertilize.

FAQ: Your Succulent Yellowing Questions Answered

Q: Can yellow succulent leaves turn green again?
A: No, once a leaf turns yellow, it will not revert to green. The plant has abandoned that leaf. Your goal is to address the cause so new growth comes in healthy.

Q: Should I pull off the yellow leaves?
A: Yes, you can gently remove fully yellowed, mushy, or crispy leaves. They won’t recover and removing them helps prevent rot and pests. If they’re just pale but firm, you can wait.

Q: How often should I really water my succulent?
A: There’s no set schedule. It depends on your home’s humidity, light, and season. In summer, it might be every 2-3 weeks; in winter, maybe once a month or less. Always check the soil first.

Q: My succulent is yellow at the bottom but green on top. Is that okay?
A: Some bottom-leaf yellowing and shedding is normal as the plant grows. This is called reabsorption. If it’s just one or two lower leaves drying up slowly, and the rest of the plant looks great, it’s probably fine.

Q: Is it better to underwater or overwater succulents?
A: It is always, always safer to underwater. An underwatered succulent can almost always be revived with a good drink. An overwatered one with root rot is much harder to save and often requires propagation.

Figuring out why your succulents are turning yellow is a process of elimination. Start by checking your watering habits and the soil moisture, then move on to light conditions. With a few adjustments, you can stop the yellowing and enjoy your resilient, colorful plants for years to come. Remember, when in doubt, it’s better to hold off on the watering can.