When To Plant Peas In Southern California

If you’re wondering when to plant peas in Southern California, you’re in the right place. The timing is the most important factor for a successful harvest, and getting it right means enjoying sweet, homegrown peas for months.

Our unique climate offers two distinct planting windows each year. This guide gives you the simple, clear steps to pick the perfect time for your garden. You’ll learn how to work with the seasons for the best results.

For most of Southern California, the prime planting times are late fall and late winter. The goal is to grow peas during the coolest parts of the year. Peas thrive in temperatures between 55°F and 75°F.

They will stop producing if it gets to hot. Here’s the breakdown for your two main options:

Fall Planting (The Best Bet): Sow seeds from late October through mid-November. This allows plants to establish roots in the cool soil and produce a heavy crop in early spring.
Winter/Spring Planting: Sow seeds from late January through mid-February. This is your second chance for a spring harvest, though the season may be shorter as heat arrives sooner.

In coastal zones with very mild summers, you can sometimes plant as early as September. In hotter inland valleys, stick to the November and February dates to avoid frost or heat issues.

Understanding Your Microclimate

Southern California has many microclimates. Your specific location will fine-tune your planting schedule. Check your average first and last frost dates, though many areas have very mild winters.

For fall planting, count backward from your area’s typical first frost date. Plant about 8-10 weeks before that date. If you rarely get frost, the cooling soil temperature in November is your main cue.

For spring planting, the goal is to get peas harvested before daily highs consistently exceed 80°F. Once that heat hits, pea plants will stop flowering and begin to die back.

Choosing the Right Pea Variety

Picking a type suited to our climate improves your success. All peas fall into three main categories:

English (Shelling) Peas: You remove the peas from the fibrous pod. Varieties like ‘Maestro’ or ‘Lincoln’ are reliable producers.
Snow Peas: You eat the flat, tender pod whole. ‘Oregon Sugar Pod’ and ‘Mammoth Melting Sugar’ are excellent choices.
Snap Peas: You eat the plump, sweet pod and peas together. ‘Sugar Snap’ is the classic, but look for improved varieties like ‘Super Sugar Snap’ for better disease resistance.

Consider bush varieties for small spaces or containers. Tall vining types need a trellis but often produce heavier yields over a longer period. Always check the “days to maturity” on the seed packet and add a week or two for our cooler winter light levels.

Preparing Your Garden Bed

Peas need well-draining soil to prevent root rot. They also fix their own nitrogen, so they don’t need rich soil. In fact, to much nitrogen leads to leafy plants with few pods.

Location: Choose a spot that gets full sun (6+ hours) during the winter months.
Soil: Work the soil to a depth of about 12 inches. Mix in compost or aged manure to improve drainage and texture. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers.
pH: Peas prefer a soil pH between 6.0 and 7.5. A simple test kit can confirm your levels.
Support: Install trellises, stakes, or netting for vining types before planting. This avoids disturbing the delicate roots later.

Step-by-Step Planting Guide

Peas grow best from direct-sown seeds. Follow these steps for a strong start:

Soak Seeds: Soak seeds in water for 4-6 hours before planting to speed up germination. This is helpful but not required.
Planting Depth: Sow seeds 1 inch deep in the soil.
Spacing: Place seeds about 2 inches apart in rows. Space rows 18-24 inches apart for bush types, and 4-6 inches apart in double rows for vining types on a trellis.
Watering: Water the bed gently but thoroughly after planting. Keep the soil consistently moist until seeds sprout, which usually takes 7-14 days.
Thinning: Once seedlings are a few inches tall, thin them to stand 4-6 inches apart to ensure good air circulation.

Caring for Your Pea Plants

Ongoing care is simple but crucial for a big harvest.

Watering: Water deeply when the top inch of soil feels dry. Drip irrigation or soaker hoses are ideal to keep foliage dry and prevent disease.
Mulching: Apply a light layer of straw or compost mulch to conserve moisture and keep soil cool. This is especially important for our sometimes warm fall days.
Feeding: If growth seems slow, a light feeding with a low-nitrogen, balanced fertilizer or a side-dressing of compost is sufficient.
Pest Watch: Keep an eye out for birds (use netting), aphids (blast with water), and powdery mildew (ensure good air flow). Our dry climate often keeps fungal issues minimal.

Harvesting Your Bounty

Harvesting at the right time ensures the sweetest flavor. Most varieties are ready about 60-70 days after planting.

Shelling Peas: Harvest when the pods look plump and rounded, but are still bright green and glossy.
Snow Peas: Pick while the pods are still very flat, before the peas inside begin to swell.
Snap Peas: Wait until the pods are plump and you can see the shape of the peas inside. The pod should still be crisp and snap easily.

The more you pick, the more the plant will produce. Use two hands to hold the vine and pinch off the pod to avoid damaging the plant. Check plants every other day during peak season. Fresh peas are best eaten immediately, but they also freeze beautifully.

Common Problems and Solutions

Even with good timing, a few issues can pop up.

Poor Germination: Caused by soil that is to wet, too cold, or old seeds. Always use fresh seeds and ensure good drainage.
Yellowing Leaves: Often a sign of overwatering or poor drainage. Can also be natural die-back as the plant finishes its life cycle in the heat.
No Flowers/Pods: Usually caused by planting to late and exposing flowers to temperatures above 80°F. Stick to the recommended planting windows.
Chewed Leaves: Likely birds or snails. Use bird netting when plants are young and hand-pick snails in the evening.

FAQ: Planting Peas in Southern California

Can I plant peas in the summer?

No, peas are a cool-season crop. Summer heat will cause them to wither and die without producing a harvest. Our summers are simply to hot for them.

What if I missed the fall planting window?

Your next best option is the late winter planting window in January or February. The harvest will be smaller and quicker, but you’ll still get peas.

Do peas need a trellis?

Most varieties do. Bush types are more compact but still benefit from a short support. Vining types absolutely require a sturdy trellis, fence, or netting to climb.

How often should I water pea plants?

Water when the top inch of soil is dry. This might be once or twice a week depending on weather. Consistent moisture is key, especially during flowering and pod development.

Can I grow peas in containers?

Yes! Choose a bush or dwarf variety and a pot at least 12 inches deep. Ensure it has excellent drainage and water regularly, as containers dry out faster.

By following these timing guidelines and simple steps, you can enjoy a reliable and delicious pea harvest. The sweet taste of homegrown peas picked at their peak is well worth the planning. Just remember to get your seeds in the ground during those cool-season windows for the best results.