Knowing how to transplant pothos is a key skill for any plant parent. This simple guide will walk you through the entire process, ensuring your resilient vine continues to thrive in its new home. Pothos, also known as Devil’s Ivy, is one of the easiest houseplants to grow, but even it needs a roomier pot when it becomes root bound. Transplanting gives it fresh soil and space to grow, leading to a fuller, healthier plant.
How to Transplant Pothos
Transplanting might seem daunting, but for pothos, it’s straightforward. The best time to do this is in the spring or early summer, when the plant is entering its active growth phase. This allows it to recover quickly and establish itself in the new pot. You’ll know it’s time when you see roots growing out of the drainage holes, or the plant dries out very quickly after watering.
What You’ll Need
Gathering your supplies before you start makes the job smoother. Here’s your checklist:
- A new pot that is 1-2 inches larger in diameter than the current one. Ensure it has drainage holes.
- Fresh, well-draining potting mix. A general indoor plant mix is perfect.
- A trowel or your hands for handling soil.
- Pruning shears or sharp scissors.
- A watering can.
- Newspaper or a tray to contain any mess.
Step-by-Step Transplanting Instructions
Step 1: Prepare the New Pot
Start by placing a small piece of broken pottery or a coffee filter over the drainage hole in the new pot. This prevents soil from washing out while allowing water to drain. Then, add a layer of fresh potting mix to the bottom. The layer should be deep enough so that when you place the pothos root ball on top, the plant sits at the same soil level as before.
Step 2: Remove the Pothos from Its Current Pot
Water your pothos lightly a few hours before transplanting. This helps the root ball hold together. Gently tip the pot sideways and carefully squeeze or tap the sides to loosen the plant. Ease the plant out by holding the base of the stems, not by pulling on the vines. If it’s stubborn, you can run a knife around the inside edge of the pot.
Step 3: Inspect and Loosen the Roots
Once the plant is out, take a look at the root ball. If the roots are densely wound in a circle (root bound), you need to loosen them. Gently tease the outer roots apart with your fingers. This encourages them to grow outward into the new soil. If the roots are very tight, you can make a few shallow vertical cuts with a clean knife.
Step 4: Prune if Necessary
This is also a good time to check the plant’s overall health. Use your shears to trim any roots that are black, mushy, or smell bad—these are signs of rot. You can also prune any excessively long or dead vines to encourage new growth after the transplant. Don’t be afraid to trim; pothos is very forgiving.
Step 5: Position in the New Pot
Place the pothos in the center of the new pot on top of the soil layer you added. The top of the root ball should be about an inch below the rim of the pot. Adjust the bottom soil layer as needed to get the height just right. This space is crucial for watering without overflow.
Step 6: Add Fresh Potting Mix
Fill in around the sides with your fresh potting mix. Gently firm the soil as you go to eliminate large air pockets, but avoid packing it down to tightly. Leave that inch of space at the top. Make sure the soil level on the stem remains the same; burying the stems to deep can lead to rot.
Step 7: Water Thoroughly
Give your newly potted pothos a generous drink of water. Water slowly until you see it running freely out of the drainage hole. This helps settle the soil and ensures the roots make good contact with their new environment. Allow the pot to drain completely before placing it back on a saucer.
Aftercare Tips for Success
Your plant may look a little droopy or stressed for a week or two—this is normal. Place it in a spot with bright, indirect light and avoid direct sun, which can add stress. Hold off on fertilizing for at least 4-6 weeks; the new soil has plenty of nutrients. Resume your normal watering routine, only watering when the top inch or two of soil feels dry.
With proper care, your pothos will soon perk up and start producing new leaves, taking advantage of its new space. It’s a simple process that makes a huge difference for the plants longevity.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Potting Too Deep: Burying the stems can cause them to rot. Keep the soil level consistent.
- Using a Pot That’s Too Big: A pot that is excessively large holds to much moisture, risking root rot. Stick to increasing by just 1-2 inches.
- Overwatering After Transplant: While the initial watering is key, avoid keeping the soil soggy afterward. Let it dry out appropriately between waterings.
- Using Garden Soil: Always use a quality potting mix. Garden soil is to dense and can harbor pests and diseases.
FAQ: Your Pothos Transplant Questions Answered
Can I transplant pothos in water?
Yes, you can move a soil-grown pothos to water, but it’s a big change. Gently wash all the soil from the roots first. Place it in a container of fresh water, submerging only the roots. Change the water weekly. The plant may go through an adjustment period as it adapts to hydroponic life.
How often should I repot my pothos?
Typically, a healthy pothos needs repotting every 1-2 years. Look for the signs: roots circling the pot or coming out the bottom, slowed growth, or soil that dries out extremly fast. A fast-growing plant might need it more often.
Can I divide a pothos when transplanting?
Absolutely. If your pothos is very large, you can divide it into two or more plants. During step 3, gently pull or cut the root ball into separate sections, making sure each section has both roots and vines. Then pot each section individually following the same steps.
What’s the best soil mix for pothos?
A standard, peat-based potting mix for indoor plants works perfectly. For even better drainage, you can mix in a handful of perlite or orchid bark. Good drainage is the most important factor to prevent overwatering issues.
My pothos is wilting after repotting. What should I do?
Some wilting is common due to shock. Ensure it’s in a warm spot with good indirect light and avoid overwatering. Mist the leaves lightly to increase humidity. If wilting persists beyond two weeks, check that the soil isn’t staying to wet and that the roots weren’t damaged.
Should I fertilize right after transplanting?
No. Fresh potting mix contains nutrients. Fertilizing to soon can overwhelm the roots and cause damage. Wait at least a month, or until you see consistent new growth, before resuming a regular fertilizing schedule with a balanced houseplant fertilizer.