How To Prune Tomato Suckers

Learning how to prune tomato suckers is one of the best ways to improve your harvest. This simple technique helps your plants focus energy on growing big, tasty fruit instead of extra leaves.

If you’re new to gardening, don’t worry. Pruning might seem tricky at first, but it’s actually very straightforward. With a little practice, you’ll be able to spot and remove suckers quickly. This guide will walk you through everything you need to know, from identifying suckers to the best pruning methods.

This is the core practice for managing indeterminate tomato plants. Let’s break down what it really means.

What Are Tomato Suckers?

A sucker is a small shoot that grows in the “armpit” of the tomato plant. This is the V-shaped space between the main stem and a branch. If left alone, a sucker will grow into a full-sized stem.

This new stem will produce its own leaves, flowers, and fruit. While that sounds good, it can lead to a crowded, inefficient plant.

Why You Should Prune Tomato Suckers

Pruning suckers offers several key benefits for your garden:

Larger Fruit: The plant directs more energy to developing fewer tomatoes, often resulting in bigger sizes.
Better Airflow: An open plant structure reduces humidity around the leaves. This helps prevent fungal diseases like blight.
Easier Maintenance: Pruned plants are less dense, making it simpler to water the base, spot pests, and harvest ripe tomatoes.
Earlier Harvest: With less vegetative growth to support, the plant can often start producing fruit a bit sooner.

It’s important to note that determinate (bush) tomato varieties generally should not be pruned. They have a set growth pattern and fruit all at once. Pruning them can significantly reduce your yield.

When to Start Pruning

Begin pruning when your plants are well-established and about 1 to 2 feet tall. The suckers should be small and easy to pinch—ideally, no more than 2 to 4 inches long.

Check your plants about once a week throughout the growing season. Suckers can appear quickly, especially after a good rain or a heavy feeding.

The Tools You’ll Need

For small suckers, your fingers are the best tool. For larger, woodier suckers (thicker than a pencil), use a sharp, clean pair of pruning shears or scissors. Clean your tools with rubbing alcohol between plants to avoid spreading any disease.

Step-by-Step Pruning Methods

There are a few different approaches to pruning. The best one for you depends on your goals and how much time you have.

Method 1: The Simple Pinch (For Beginners)

This is the easiest method and is highly effective.

Locate a sucker in the crotch between the main stem and a branch.
Wait until it’s about 2 to 4 inches long.
Gently grasp the base of the sucker between your thumb and forefinger.
Pinch and snap it off with a quick, sideways motion. It should come away cleanly.

Method 2: The Missouri Prune

This is a gentler method often recommended in hot climates. It leaves a couple leaves on the sucker to help shade developing fruit.

Pinch off just the growing tip of the sucker, leaving the first one or two leaves intact.
The remaining leaves will contribute to the plant’s energy production without the sucker growing into a major stem.
This method can be useful if your plants get a lot of intense sun.

Method 3: Single-Stem Pruning

This is the most aggressive approach, favored by many farmers market growers for maximum fruit size.

Remove every single sucker that appears.
The plant is left with one main stem, which is tied to a tall, sturdy stake.
All energy goes to the fruit on that primary stem. It requires diligent weekly pruning.

Method 4: Double-Stem Pruning

A good compromise that increases yield slightly while still maintaining good control.

Allow the first strong sucker (usually the one just below the first flower cluster) to grow.
Prune off all other suckers on both stems.
You now have two main stems to train and support. This is my personal favorite method for home gardens.

Common Pruning Mistakes to Avoid

Even experienced gardeners can make a few errors. Here’s what to watch out for:

Pruning Determinate Varieties: As mentioned, this hurts your harvest. Know your tomato type before you start.
Pruning When Wet: Never prune after rain or early in the morning when plants are damp. This spreads disease. Always prune on a dry, sunny day.
Removing Flower Clusters: Be careful! Flower clusters grow directly from the stem or branch, not from the crotch. Don’t accidently snap these off.
Letting Suckers Get Too Big: Large, woody suckers are harder to remove and their removal creates a bigger wound. It’s also more stressful for the plant.
Over-Pruning: Never remove to many leaves at once. The plant needs leaves for photosynthesis. A good rule is to never remove more than 1/3 of the plant’s total foliage in a week.

What to Do With the Pruned Suckers

Don’t just throw them on the ground! You can compost them if they are disease-free. An even better idea is to propagate them.

Place the suckers in a glass of water. Within a week or so, they’ll grow roots. You can then plant them to create new, free tomato plants! This works best early in the season so the new plants have time to mature.

FAQ: Your Tomato Sucker Questions Answered

Do all tomato plants need suckers pruned?

No. Indeterminate (vining) varieties benefit the most. Determinate (bush) varieties should generally be left unpruned, except for removing a few bottom leaves for airflow.

Can I prune tomato suckers too late?

It’s never to late to remove a sucker, but late removal of a large one is more stressful for the plant. It’s always better to prune them small. If a sucker is already large and has flowers, you might choose to leave it and just tip-prune it.

How often should I check for suckers?

A weekly check is perfect. During peak growth in mid-summer, you might need to check every 5 days. It becomes a quick and easy routine.

Is it okay to prune leaves too?

Yes, but carefully. Removing a few of the oldest, yellowing leaves at the very bottom of the plant improves air circulation. This helps prevent soil-borne diseases from splashing onto the foliage. Avoid removing healthy, green leaves higher up.

What if I accidently break the main stem?

Don’t panic! You can often fix it. If the break is clean, you can try to splice it back together with plant tape. If it’s completely severed, you can place the top part in water to root it, just like a sucker. The bottom part may grow a new sucker that you can train as the new main stem.

Pruning tomato suckers is a simple habit that makes a huge difference. It gives you more control over your plant’s health and productivity. Start with the simple pinch method on one or two plants. You’ll quickly see how it opens up the plant and encourages those beautiful green tomatoes to swell and ripen. With these tips, your garden is set for a fantastic tomato season.