When To Plant Lettuce In Zone 7

Knowing when to plant lettuce in zone 7 is the key to a long, productive harvest of crisp greens. Getting the timing right means you can enjoy fresh salads for months, not just a few weeks in spring.

This guide gives you the simple schedule and tips you need. We’ll cover the best dates for sowing seeds directly outside and for starting them indoors.

You’ll also learn how to extend your season into the heat of summer and through the fall. Lettuce is a rewarding crop, and with the right plan, you can make it a staple in your garden.

For zone 7 gardeners, lettuce is primarily a cool-season crop. The optimal timing revolves around two main planting windows: early spring and early fall. The goal is to grow lettuce when temperatures are between 45°F and 75°F.

In spring, you want to get seeds in the ground as soon as the soil can be worked. In fall, you time it so the lettuce matures during the cooler, shorter days of autumn.

Spring Planting Schedule

Spring planting happens in two phases. First, you’ll plant cold-tolerant varieties very early. Then, you’ll make succession plantings for a continuous harvest.

First Direct Sow: 4 to 6 weeks before your last average spring frost date. For most of zone 7, this is between late February and mid-March. The soil temperature should be at least 35°F for seeds to germinate.
Transplanting Starts: You can begin seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before your last frost. This gives you a head start. Harden off seedlings and transplant them outside 2 to 4 weeks before the last frost date.
Succession Planting: Every 2 weeks after your first planting, sow another small row or container. This staggers the harvest so you don’t have all your lettuce ready at once. Stop succession planting about a month before consistent hot weather arrives.

Fall Planting Schedule

Fall is often the best time for lettuce in zone 7. The cooling temperatures and fewer pests create ideal conditions. The flavor is often sweeter, too.

Key Calculation: Find your first average fall frost date. Count backwards the “Days to Maturity” listed on your seed packet, then add 14 extra days for slower growth in shorter, cooler days.
Main Direct Sow: Typically, this falls between mid-August and mid-September for most of zone 7. You can sow seeds directly into the garden, as the soil is still warm enough for quick germination.
Transplanting for Fall: Start seeds indoors in late summer if your garden space is still full. Transplant them in September for a late fall harvest. Some cold-tolerant varieties can survive under cover well into winter.

Understanding Your Zone 7 Frost Dates

Your specific dates are crucial. Zone 7 is a large band across the US, so frost dates vary.

Average Last Spring Frost: Roughly between April 1st and April 15th. Some microclimates may see frost as late as early May.
Average First Fall Frost: Roughly between October 15th and November 1st.
Action Step: Check with your local county extension service for the most accurate dates in your exact town. This is the single most important piece of information for your planting calendar.

Choosing the Right Lettuce Varieties

Selecting types suited for the season improves your success. Lettuce comes in several main forms, each with different heat tolerance.

For Early Spring & Overwintering

Loose-Leaf (e.g., Black Seeded Simpson, Oakleaf): Fastest to mature. You can pick individual leaves. Very cold-tolerant.
Butterhead (e.g., Bibb, Tom Thumb): Forms loose heads. Tolerates cold well and has a sweet flavor.
Romaine/Cos: Takes longer but is quite cold-hardy. Good for spring and fall.

For Late Spring & Fall Heat Resilience

Crisphead/Iceberg: Takes the longest to mature. Best planted for a fall harvest, as summer heat will cause it to bolt.
Heat-Tolerant Varieties: Look for specific cultivars like ‘Summer Crisp’ (Batavian types), ‘Jericho’ Romaine, or ‘Slo-Bolt’ loose-leaf. These are bred to resist bolting longer.

Step-by-Step Planting Guide

Follow these simple steps for a successful planting.

Prepare the Soil: Lettuce needs loose, well-draining soil rich in organic matter. Work in 2-3 inches of compost before planting. The soil pH should be between 6.0 and 7.0.
Sowing Seeds: Plant seeds only 1/4 inch deep. Sow them thinly in rows or scatter them in a wide container. Cover lightly with fine soil and pat gently.
Watering: Keep the seed bed consistently moist but not soggy. Use a gentle spray to avoid washing away the tiny seeds. Germination takes 7-14 days.
Thinning: Once seedlings have a few true leaves, thin them. For leaf lettuce, space plants 4-6 inches apart. For head lettuce, space 8-12 inches apart. You can eat the thinnings!
Ongoing Care: Water regularly at the base of the plants to keep leaves dry and prevent disease. A layer of mulch helps retain moisture and keeps soil cool.

How to Beat the Heat and Prevent Bolting

Bolting is when lettuce sends up a flower stalk, making the leaves bitter. It’s triggered by long days and temperatures over 75°F. Here’s how to delay it:

Use Shade Cloth: In late spring, install a 30-50% shade cloth over your lettuce bed. It can lower the temperature significantly.
Plant in Partial Shade: In summer, plant fall lettuce where it will receive afternoon shade from taller plants or structures.
Water Consistently: Stress from drought will accelerate bolting. Drip irrigation is ideal.
Harvest in the Morning: Leaves are crispest and sweetest first thing in the day.
Pick Outer Leaves: For loose-leaf types, harvest the outer leaves regularly to encourage new growth and delay the plant’s urge to complete its life cycle.

Extending the Harvest Season

With a little effort, you can pick lettuce for most of the year in zone 7.

Cold Frames & Row Covers: Use these in early spring and late fall. A simple floating row cover can protect plants from a light frost. A cold frame can let you grow lettuce all winter in zone 7.
Container Gardening: Grow lettuce in pots. You can move them into the shade in summer or into a sheltered spot in winter. It’s a very flexible option.
Winter Harvest: Plant cold-hardy varieties like ‘Winter Density’ or ‘Arctic King’ in a cold frame in early fall. They will grow slowly and can be harvested on warmer winter days.

Common Problems and Simple Solutions

Lettuce is relatively easy, but a few issues can pop up.

Slugs and Snails: They love tender lettuce. Use organic slug bait, beer traps, or hand-pick them at night.
Aphids: Blast them off with a strong spray of water from the hose. Insecticidal soap is also effective.
Tip Burn: Brown edges on leaves is often a sign of inconsistent watering or a calcium deficiency. Keep soil evenly moist and ensure your soil pH isn’t too low.
Leggy Seedlings: Indicates not enough light. If starting indoors, use a grow light placed close to the seedlings.

FAQ: Planting Lettuce in Zone 7

Can I plant lettuce in the summer in zone 7?
It’s challenging. For a summer crop, you must use heat-tolerant varieties and provide afternoon shade. Success is much higher with fall planting.

How late can you plant lettuce in zone 7?
You can plant up until about 6-8 weeks before your first hard fall freeze. Using cold frames or row covers can extend this deadline further.

What is the best month to plant lettuce in zone 7?
For spring, March is ideal. For fall, September is often the perfect month. Adjust based on your exact local frost dates.

Can lettuce survive a frost in zone 7?
Yes. Established lettuce plants can handle light frosts (down to about 28°F) without protection. Hardier varieties can survive even colder temps with a row cover.

Should I start lettuce indoors or direct sow?
Both work. Direct sowing is easiest in spring and fall. Starting indoors gives you a head start in spring and is useful for fall if garden space is limited in late summer.

Why did my lettuce seeds not germinate?
Old seeds or soil that was too warm, too cold, or too dry are common causes. Lettuce seeds also needs light to germinate, so ensure they are not planted to deep.

By following this zone 7 schedule, you can plan for multiple lettuce harvest throughout the year. The key is to work with the cool seasons and use simple tools like shade cloth and row covers to moderate the environment. Start with a easy loose-leaf variety for your first try, and you’ll be harvesting your own salad in just a few weeks. Remember, the best teacher is experience, so get some seeds and start planting according to your local calendar.