If you’re looking for a potato that breaks the mold, look no further than Viking purple potatoes. Their vibrant color and rich, earthy flavor make them a standout in any garden and kitchen.
These stunning tubers are as rewarding to grow as they are to eat. This guide gives you everything you need, from planting to plate.
Viking Purple Potatoes
Viking purple potatoes are a mid-season variety known for their smooth, oblong shape. The skin is a deep, royal purple, while the flesh inside is a marbled swirl of purple and white. They hold their color beautifully when cooked, which makes any dish visually striking.
Their flavor is nutty and earthy, more complex than a standard russet. They have a creamy, moist texture that’s perfect for a variety of culinary uses.
Why Grow Viking Purple Potatoes?
There are several great reasons to add these to your garden:
- Visual Impact: The intense purple color adds wow factor to gardens and meals.
- Nutritional Value: They are rich in antioxidants, particularly anthocyanins, which give them their color.
- Garden Conversation Starter: They’re a unique crop that always draws attention and questions.
- Excellent Storage: When cured and stored properly, they can last for months.
How to Plant Your Purple Potatoes
You start with “seed potatoes,” which are small tubers certified disease-free. Don’t use grocery store potatoes, as they may carry disease or be treated to prevent sprouting.
1. Chitting (Pre-Sprouting)
About 2-3 weeks before your last spring frost date, place your seed potatoes in a cool, bright spot. This encourages them to grow short, sturdy green sprouts. This step gives them a head start, leading to a stronger plant.
2. Preparing the Soil
Potatoes need loose, well-draining soil. They thrive in slightly acidic soil with a pH between 5.0 and 6.5. Work in plenty of compost or well-rotted manure before planting. Good soil prep is key to a good harvest, so don’t skip this.
3. Planting Day
Plant after the danger of a hard frost has passed. You can plant them whole if they’re small (egg-sized), or cut larger ones into pieces, ensuring each piece has at least 2-3 “eyes” or sprouts. Let the cut pieces dry for a day to form a callus.
- Dig a trench about 6 inches deep.
- Space seed pieces 12 inches apart.
- Rows should be about 3 feet apart.
- Place them with the sprouts facing up, cover with 4 inches of soil.
Caring for Your Growing Plants
Consistent care through the season ensures a bumper crop of those vibrant tubers.
Watering and Hilling
Potatoes need about 1-2 inches of water per week, especially once tubers start forming. Avoid letting the soil dry out completely, but also avoid waterlogging. When the plants are about 8 inches tall, “hill” them by mounding soil around the base, leaving just the top few inches exposed. This protects developing tubers from sunlight and supports the plant. Repeat hilling every few weeks.
Fertilizing and Weeding
Use a balanced, low-nitrogen fertilizer at planting. Too much nitrogen encourages leafy growth instead of tubers. Keep the area weed-free, as weeds compete for nutrients and water. Gentle, shallow cultivation is best to avoid damaging roots.
Pest and Disease Watch
Common issues include Colorado potato beetles and aphids. Check the undersides of leaves regularly. Blight can be a problem in wet, humid weather. Good spacing for air flow and avoiding overhead watering helps prevent fungal diseases.
Harvesting and Storing Your Crop
Knowing when and how to harvest makes all the difference for storage life.
When to Harvest
You can harvest “new” potatoes about 2-3 weeks after the plants finish flowering. For mature, storage-quality potatoes, wait until the plant vines have completely died back and turned brown.
How to Harvest
- Choose a dry day.
- Use a digging fork, inserting it well away from the plant stem to avoid spearing tubers.
- Gently lift the soil and sift through with your hands to find all the potatoes.
Curing and Storage
Don’t wash the potatoes right away. Let them cure in a dark, well-ventilated place at about 55-60°F for 10-14 days. This toughens their skin for storage. After curing, store them in a cool, dark place (ideally 38-45°F) like a root cellar or basement. A paper bag or cardboard box works well. Properly cured Viking purple potatoes can store for 5-8 months.
How to Cook Viking Purple Potatoes
Their earthy flavor and color-holding ability open up many possibilities. Because of their creamy texture, they are fantastic for mashing, roasting, and in salads. They tend to hold their shape better than some starchy varieties, so they’re great for soups and stews too.
- Roasting: Toss with oil and herbs. Roast at 400°F until crispy outside and tender inside.
- Mashing: Boil until tender, then mash with butter, garlic, and a splash of cream for a stunning purple side dish.
- Salads: Their firm texture makes them perfect for potato salad, where the color really shines.
- Boiling/Steaming: A simple preparation that lets their natural flavor stand out.
Note: To preserve the most color, add a little vinegar or lemon juice to the cooking water. And try to avoid overcooking them, which can cause some color leeching.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)
Are purple potatoes the same as Viking purple potatoes?
Not exactly. “Purple potato” is a general term. Viking purple is a specific variety with marbled flesh, while others may have solid purple flesh.
Do purple potatoes taste different?
Yes, they often have a more nutty, earthy flavor compared to the mild taste of a russet or the buttery taste of a Yukon Gold.
Are they harder to grow than regular potatoes?
No, they require the exact same growing conditions and care as any other potato variety. Their needs are not any more difficult.
Why did my purple potatoes loose some color when cooked?
Some color loss is normal, especially with boiling. Acidic ingredients (vinegar, lemon) help, and dry-heat methods like roasting preserve color best. The flavor will still be great even if the color fades a bit.
Can I save my own Viking purple potatoes for seed next year?
Yes, you can! Set aside some of your best, healthiest-looking tubers from your harvest. Cure and store them seperately, and use them as your seed potatoes for the next season. Just be sure to rotate your potato crop to a different part of the garden to prevent disease buildup.