When To Plant Potatoes In Central Texas

If you’re planning your garden in the heart of Texas, knowing when to plant potatoes in Central Texas is the first step to a great harvest. Getting the timing right is everything here, where our winters are mild and our summers come on strong.

Potatoes are a cool-season crop, and our unique climate offers two possible planting windows. Planting at the optimal time helps you avoid frost damage and ensures the tubers develop before the scorching heat arrives. Let’s break down the best schedule and methods for your spud success.

For most of Central Texas, the primary planting time is in late winter. The goal is to get your seed potatoes in the ground so they can grow during the cool spring months and be ready for harvest before summer really turns up the temperature.

Primary Planting Window: Late Winter

Aim to plant your seed potatoes between mid-February and early March. A good rule of thumb is to target a date about 2-3 weeks before your last average spring frost. In Austin, for example, the last frost is around March 5th, so planting around Valentine’s Day is often perfect.

Check your specific county’s last frost date for the best guidance.
Soil temperature is a great indicator: it should be at least 45°F (7°C).
If a late frost threatens after sprouts emerge, you can cover them with frost cloth.

Secondary Fall Planting Window

You can also plant for a fall harvest, though it’s a bit more tricky. The key is to count backwards from your first average fall frost date. You need to plant early enough for potatoes to mature in cooler weather.

Plant about 110-120 days before your first fall frost, usually in early to mid-August.
The summer heat at planting time is a challenge, so provide plenty of water and mulch.
Choose faster-maturing varieties for the fall crop to ensure they beat the winter cold.

Choosing the Right Potato Varieties

Not all potatoes are created equal, especially for our climate. Selecting varieties that mature quickly and handle heat stress is a smart move.

Early Season (70-90 days): ‘Red LaSoda’, ‘Yukon Gold’, ‘Norland’. These are excellent for our spring season.
Mid-Season (90-110 days): ‘Kennebec’, ‘Purple Majesty’. Good for spring planting if you get them in early.
For fall planting, stick with early-season varieties to ensure a harvest.
Avoid long-season types that require over 110 days, as they’ll likely hit the summer heat.

Step-by-Step Planting Guide

Once you’ve got your timing and seed potatoes, follow these steps for the best start.

1. Preparing Seed Potatoes

Always use certified disease-free seed potatoes from a garden center, not grocery store spuds. About 1-2 weeks before planting, “chit” or pre-sprout them.

Place them in a cool, bright spot (not direct sun) with the “eyes” facing up.
You’ll see short, sturdy sprouts form. This gives them a head start.
If the seed potato is large, you can cut it into pieces, ensuring each piece has 1-2 eyes.

2. Soil Preparation is Key

Potatoes need loose, well-draining soil. Texas clay is their enemy, as it leads to rot and misshapen tubers.

Choose a spot with full sun (at least 6-8 hours).
Work the soil deeply, to about 12 inches. Mix in several inches of compost or aged manure.
Raised beds or grow bags are fantastic options for ensuring good drainage and loose soil.

3. The Planting Process

Dig a trench about 6 inches deep.
Place seed potato pieces, eyes up, about 12 inches apart in the trench.
Cover with 3-4 inches of soil. Do not fill the trench completely yet.
Space your rows about 2-3 feet apart to allow for growth and hilling.

4. Watering and Hilling

Water deeply after planting to settle the soil. Keep the soil consistently moist but never soggy. As the plants grow to about 6 inches tall, begin “hilling.”

Mound soil from around the plant up around the stem, leaving just the top leaves exposed.
This protects developing tubers from sunlight (which turns them green and toxic) and encourages more potato formation along the buried stem.
Repeat hilling every few weeks until the plants begin to flower.

Caring for Your Potato Plants

Consistent care through the season protects your crop and maximizes yield.

Watering: Provide 1-2 inches of water per week. Inconsistent watering leads to knobby or hollow potatoes. Drip irrigation is ideal.
Mulching: A thick layer of straw or leaves helps retain moisture, keeps soil cool, and suppresses weeds.
Fertilizing: Use a balanced, low-nitrogen fertilizer at planting. To much nitrogen gives you lots of leaves but few potatoes.
Pests: Watch for Colorado potato beetles and aphids. Hand-pick beetles and spray aphids with water.

Harvesting Your Central Texas Potatoes

You can harvest “new” potatoes about 2-3 weeks after the plants stop flowering. For mature, storage potatoes, wait until the plant foliage turns yellow and begins to die back.

Use a digging fork, not a shovel, to gently loosen the soil several inches away from the plant.
Lift the plant and carefully sift through the soil for all the tubers.
Let the potatoes cure in a dark, well-ventilated place for 1-2 weeks to toughen their skins for storage.

Common Challenges and Solutions

Our climate presents specific hurdles. Here’s how to tackle them:

Early Heatwave: If an early hot spell hits, increase mulching and watering to keep soil as cool as possible.
Green Potatoes: This is caused by sunlight exposure. Always hill properly and harvest potatoes that have been exposed to light.
Soil Diseases: Rotating your potato plot every year is crucial to prevent buildup of soil-borne diseases.

FAQ: Planting Potatoes in Central Texas

Can I plant potatoes from the grocery store?

It’s not recommended. Store-bought potatoes are often treated with sprout inhibitors and can carry diseases that will stay in your soil.

What if I missed the spring planting date?

You can try the fall planting window, or wait until next year. Planting to late in spring usually results in small potatoes because the plants shut down in the heat.

How deep should a container be for potatoes?

Choose a container at least 18-24 inches deep to allow for proper root and tuber development. Fabric grow bags work very well.

Can potatoes handle a light frost?

Emerging foliage can be damaged by frost. If a frost is forcasted after your plants are up, cover them overnight with row cover or an old sheet.

Why are my potato plants flowering?

Flowering is a normal part of the growth cycle and often signals that tuber formation is happening underground. It’s a good sign!

By following this guide and paying attention to our Central Texas seasons, you can enjoy a succesful harvest of homegrown potatoes. The key is respecting the calender and working with our unique weather patterns to give your plants the best possible chance.