Learning how to transplant lilac bushes can give your favorite shrubs a fresh start in a better spot. It’s a straightforward task that, when done right, ensures your lilac thrives for years to come. This guide will walk you through the entire process, from choosing the perfect time to helping your bush settle into its new home.
How To Transplant Lilac Bushes
The key to a successful move is careful planning and gentle handling. Lilacs form dense, fibrous root systems, and disturbing them too much can cause stress. By following these steps, you minimize shock and give your plant the best chance to recover quickly.
When is the Best Time to Transplant Lilacs?
Timing is everything. The ideal period is when the bush is dormant. This means it’s not actively growing new leaves or flowers.
- Late Fall: After the leaves have dropped but before the ground freezes solid. This allows roots to establish a little before winter.
- Early Spring: Just as the ground thaws but before new buds begin to swell. The plant’s energy is focused underground.
Avoid transplanting in summer. The heat and active growth put too much strain on the plant, often leading to failure.
What You’ll Need: Tools & Materials
Gathering your supplies beforehand makes the job smoother. Here’s what you need:
- A sharp, clean spade
- A garden fork
- Burlap or an old tarp for moving
- Pruning shears (loppers for thicker branches)
- Compost or aged manure
- Mulch (wood chips or shredded bark)
- A hose and water source
- Stakes and soft ties (for larger bushes)
Step-by-Step Transplanting Guide
Now, let’s get your lilac moved. Plan for a cool, cloudy day if possible to reduce moisture loss.
Step 1: Prepare the New Planting Hole
Always dig the new hole first. This limits the time the roots are exposed. The hole should be at least twice as wide as the root ball you expect to dig up, and just as deep. Mix some compost into the soil you removed from the hole.
Step 2: Prune the Lilac Bush
Before digging, prune the bush back by about one-third. This reduces the demand on the roots while they recover. Remove any dead or weak branches first, then shape the rest. Don’t be afraid to cut it back hard; lilacs are very resilient.
Step 3: Dig Up the Root Ball
Start digging a trench in a circle around the bush, about 12-18 inches from the main stems for established plants. Work your way down and under the root system. Use the garden fork to loosen the soil and sever long roots. The goal is to keep as much soil attached to the roots as possible.
Step 4: Lift and Move the Bush
Once the root ball is free, carefully slide the burlap or tarp underneath it. Gently lift the bush by pulling on the material, not the stems. Drag or carry it to the new hole. This technique helps hold the rootball together, protecting the delicate feeder roots.
Step 5: Planting in the New Location
Place the lilac in the center of the new hole. The top of the root ball should be level with the surrounding ground. Backfill with your soil-compost mix, firming it gently as you go to remove air pockets. Create a shallow basin around the base to hold water.
Step 6: Water and Mulch Thoroughly
Water deeply immediately after planting. Soak the soil until it’s moist all around the root zone. Then, apply a 2-3 inch layer of mulch around the base, keeping it a few inches away from the main stems. This conserves moisture and regulates soil temperature.
Aftercare: Helping Your Lilac Thrive
Your job isn’t quite done after planting. Consistent aftercare is crucial for the first year.
- Watering: Water deeply once a week unless rainfall is ample. The soil should be moist, not soggy, several inches down.
- Staking: Only stake the lilac if it’s very large or in a windy site. Use soft ties and remove them after one growing season.
- Hold the Fertilizer: Do not fertilize at planting time or in the first year. The compost is enough. Fertilizer can burn new roots and encourages leaf growth over root growth.
- Patience with Blooms: Don’t expect flowers the first spring after transplanting. The plant is putting its energy into roots. It may take 2-3 years to see a full, beautiful bloom again.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Steer clear of these pitfalls to ensure success.
- Transplanting at the wrong time. Summer moves are the most common cause of failure.
- Planting too deep. Burying the stem can lead to rot. Keep the root flare at soil level.
- Not watering enough. The first summer is critical. Don’t let the rootball dry out completely.
- Choosing a poor site. Lilacs need full sun (at least 6 hours) and well-drained soil. They won’t bloom well in shade.
FAQ: Your Lilac Transplant Questions Answered
How big of a root ball do I need for a mature lilac?
A good rule is 10-12 inches of root ball diameter for every inch of trunk diameter. For a large, established bush, be prepared for a heavy rootball and get a friend to help.
Can I transplant a lilac in the spring if it already has leaves?
It’s riskier, but if you must, do it very early and be extra diligent with watering. The plant will wilt dramatically but may recover with constant care.
Should I amend the soil in the new hole?
Yes, mixing compost with the native soil is beneficial. But avoid creating a “pot” of rich soil in a clay hole, as this can cause water drainage problems.
How long before a transplanted lilac blooms?
Typically, you’ll need to wait 2 to 3 years for the shrub to fully recover and produce it’s normal flower show. Good care speeds this up.
Is it possible to divide a lilac bush when transplanting?
Older, overgrown lilacs with multiple stems can sometimes be divided. After digging it up, use a sharp spade or saw to cut the root mass into sections, each with several stems and plenty of roots. Replant each division immediately.
Transplanting a lilac is a rewarding project. With the right timing, careful handling, and a bit of patience, you can successfully relocate these fragrant shrubs to a spot where they will flourish. Remember, the effort you put in during the first year directly impacts how quickly your lilac returns to its glorious, blooming self.