How To Transplant Spider Plants

If your spider plant is looking a bit cramped or you want to make more plants, learning how to transplant spider plants is your next step. It’s a simple process that gives your plant a fresh start and helps it thrive.

Spider plants, with their arching leaves and little plantlets, are some of the easiest houseplants to care for. They tell you when they need more space by becoming root-bound. Transplanting them at the right time keeps them healthy and growing strong. This guide will walk you through every step.

Transplanting simply means moving your plant to a new pot. You might do this to give it more room or to separate its babies. The best time to do this is in the spring or early summer, when the plant is entering its active growth phase. This gives it the energy to settle into its new home quickly.

Signs Your Spider Plant Needs a New Pot

Your plant will give you clear signals. Look for these clues:

Roots growing out of the drainage holes: This is the most common sign. The roots are seeking more space.
A pot that dries out very quickly: If you’re watering constantly, it means the pot is mostly roots, not soil.
Cracked or bulging pots: The pressure from the dense root ball can literally break the container.
Slowed growth or lack of plantlets: The plant has no energy or room to produce its famous “spider babies.”
Roots visible on the soil surface: They may be circling the top of the pot.

What You’ll Need to Get Started

Gathering your supplies first makes the job smooth. Here’s your checklist:

A new pot that is 1-2 inches larger in diameter than the current one. Avoid going too big.
Fresh, well-draining potting mix. A general-purpose mix is fine.
A trowel or your hands.
Pruning shears or sharp scissors.
Watering can.
Newspaper or a tarp to contain the mess.

Step-by-Step Transplanting Instructions

Follow these numbered steps for the best results. Take your time and be gentle with the roots.

Step 1: Prepare the New Pot

Start by placing a small piece of broken pottery or a coffee filter over the drainage hole. This prevents soil from washing out. Then, add a layer of fresh potting mix to the bottom of the new pot. The layer should be deep enough so that when you place the root ball on top, the plant sits at the same level it did in its old pot.

Step 2: Remove the Plant

Water your spider plant lightly a day before transplanting. This makes the roots more flexible. To remove it, tip the pot sideways. Gently squeeze the pot and ease the plant out. If it’s stuck, you can run a knife around the inside edge. Never pull on the leaves.

Step 3: Inspect and Loosen the Roots

Once the plant is out, look at the root ball. If the roots are wound tightly in a circle, you need to loosen them. Gently tease the outer roots apart with your fingers. This encourages them to grow outward into the new soil. If the roots are extremly dense, you can make a few shallow vertical cuts with a clean knife.

Step 4: Prune if Necessary

This is also a good time to check for unhealthy roots. Look for any that are mushy, black, or smell bad. Use your clean shears to trim these away. You can also snip off any dead or yellowing leaves at the base to tidy up the plant.

Step 5: Position in the New Pot

Center the spider plant in the new pot. The top of the root ball should be about an inch below the rim. This leaves space for watering. Add or remove soil from the bottom layer to get the height just right.

Step 6: Add Fresh Soil

Hold the plant steady with one hand. With the other, scoop new potting mix around the sides. Fill in all the gaps between the root ball and the pot. Gently firm the soil down as you go to eliminate large air pockets. Don’t pack it to tightly.

Step 7: Water and Settle

Give your newly potted plant a thorough watering. Water until it runs freely out the drainage hole. This helps settle the soil around the roots. You may need to add a bit more soil after watering if the level sinks.

Step 8: Aftercare

Place the plant in a spot with bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sun for a week or two while it recovers. Hold off on fertilizing for at least a month to let the roots establish. Resume your normal care routine once you see new growth, which is a sign it has settled in.

How to Transplant Spider Plant Babies (Plantlets)

Those dangling plantlets are the easiest way to get new spider plants. You have two main methods:

Method 1: Propagate in Water First

Choose a healthy plantlet that has started to form little nubs (aerial roots).
Snip it off the long stem (the stolon) with clean scissors.
Place the base of the plantlet in a small jar of water, ensuring only the nubs are submerged.
Put it in bright light and change the water every few days.
In 1-2 weeks, you’ll see longer roots develop. When they are an inch or two long, pot it up in a small container with soil.

Method 2: Plant Directly in Soil

Select a plantlet and snip it from the mother plant, keeping the stem attached.
Fill a small pot with moist potting mix.
Plant the base of the plantlet in the soil, burying the root nubs. You can use a bent paperclip to pin it down if needed.
Keep the soil consistently moist (not soggy) for the first few weeks.
Once it shows new growth and resists a gentle tug, it has rooted. You can then cut the connecting stem.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

Even with an easy plant, a few errors can set it back. Steer clear of these:

Using a pot that’s too large: Excess soil holds too much water and can lead to root rot.
Not using a pot with a drainage hole. This is non-negotiable for spider plants health.
Burying the plant too deep. Always plant at the same level it was growing before.
Overwatering immediately after transplanting. The plant needs moisture but the roots are vulnerable.
Placing it in harsh sunlight right away. This causes transplant shock and leaf scorch.

Troubleshooting After Transplanting

If your plant looks unhappy after the move, here’s what might be wrong:

Drooping or wilting leaves: This is normal transplant shock. Keep it in stable conditions and it should perk up in a week.
Yellowing leaves: Could be overwatering. Let the soil dry out more between waterings.
Brown leaf tips: Often due to fluoride in tap water or low humidity. Use distilled or rainwater if possible.
No new growth: Be patient. It can take a few weeks for the plant to focus energy on new leaves after working on its roots.

FAQ About Transplanting Spider Plants

How often should I repot my spider plant?

Spider plants typically need repotting every 2-3 years. They actually like being a bit root-bound, but not excessively so.

Can I transplant a spider plant in the winter?

It’s best to avoid it. The plant is semi-dormant and won’t recover as quickly. Spring and summer are ideal.

What kind of soil is best for spider plants?

A standard, peat-based potting mix that drains well is perfect. You can add a handful of perlite for extra drainage if you like.

Should I fertilize after transplanting?

No. Fresh potting mix often contains nutrients. Wait at least 4-6 weeks before resuming a light feeding schedule.

Can I divide a large spider plant?

Absolutely. When you take it out of the pot, you can gently pull or cut the root ball into two or more sections. Make sure each section has plenty of roots and leaves. Then pot each division separately.

Why are the leaves pale after repotting?

This can be a sign of to much direct light while the plant is stressed. Move it to a slightly shadier spot until it recovers its color.

Transplanting your spider plant is a straightforward task that ensures it continues to grow and produce its charming offspring for years to come. With the right timing, a suitable pot, and a little care during the transition, your plant will quickly adapt to its new home. Remember, the key is to observe your plant and respond to its needs—it will thank you with lush, vibrant growth.