What Is Eating My Roses

If you’re finding holes in your rose leaves or missing buds, you’re probably wondering what is eating my roses. This is a common frustration for gardeners, but the good news is that you can identify and manage the culprits with a little know-how. Let’s look at the most frequent offenders and how to deal with them effectively.

Several pests find roses as attractive as we do. The damage they cause is often your first clue. Chewed leaves, skeletonized foliage, distorted buds, and sticky residue are all signs of trouble. By inspecting your plants regularly, you can catch problems early and choose the right solution.

Common Leaf-Eating Pests

These pests directly munch on the foliage, leaving behind very visable damage.

Japanese Beetles: These metallic green-and-copper beetles are hard to miss. They skeletonize leaves, eating the tissue between the veins so only a lace-like frame remains. They feed in groups during the day, usually from mid-summer.
Rose Slugs (Sawfly Larvae): Not true slugs, these are green caterpillar-like larvae. They scrape off the top layer of leaves, creating a windowpane effect. Severe infestations can defoliate a plant. Check the undersides of leaves for them.
Caterpillars: Various types, like the leafroller caterpillar, will chew large, irregular holes in leaves. They may also roll leaves together with silk to hide inside, which protects them from predators and weather.

Sap-Sucking Insects

These pests pierce plant cells and suck out the juices, causing indirect damage and spreading disease.

Aphids: Tiny green, black, or pink insects that cluster on new shoots and buds. They leave a sticky “honeydew” residue that can attract ants and lead to sooty mold. They weaken new growth and can distort it.
Spider Mites: Extremely tiny pests that are more felt than seen. Look for fine webbing on the undersides of leaves and a stippled, dusty appearance on the foliage. They thrive in hot, dry conditions.
Rose Leafhoppers: These small, wedge-shaped insects hop away quickly when disturbed. They cause white stippling on leaves and can carry viruses from plant to plant, which is a serious risk.

Bud and Bloom Destroyers

These pests target the most prized parts of the rose—the flowers themselves.

Thrips: Slender, tiny insects that rasp at petals, causing brown edges and streaks, especially on light-colored blooms. Buds may fail to open or appear distorted. They often hide deep within the flower.
Rose Budworms (Rose Curculio): A bright red beetle with a long snout. The female lays eggs in rose buds, and the larvae feed inside, causing the bud to die or produce a malformed flower. They prefer yellow and white roses.
Deer and Rabbits: Larger garden visitors. Deer will eat rose buds, leaves, and even stems, leaving ragged cuts. Rabbits neatly snip off young, tender shoots at the base.

Step-by-Step: Diagnosing the Problem

Follow these steps to figure out who’s to blame.

Examine the Damage: Look closely. Are leaves chewed, or just discolored? Is there webbing or sticky goo? Chewing damage points to beetles or larvae. Sucking damage points to aphids or mites.
Inspect at the Right Time: Some pests, like Japanese beetles, feed openly during the day. Others, like many caterpillars, feed at night. Check your plants at different times with a flashlight if needed.
Check Undersides: Most pests hide on the underside of leaves or deep within the plant. Turn leaves over and look at the base of buds.
Look for Secondary Signs: Ants crawling on plants often indicate aphid honeydew. Bird activity can signal a caterpillar infestation.

Organic and Cultural Control Methods

Start with the least harmful methods to protect your garden’s ecosystem.

Hand Picking: For larger pests like Japanese beetles and budworms, hand-pick them off and drop them into soapy water. Do this in the early morning when they are less active.
Strong Spray of Water: A sharp blast from your hose can dislodge aphids, mites, and leafhoppers. Repeat every few days to control populations. This is very effective for light infestations.
Encourage Beneficial Insects: Plant flowers like yarrow and dill to attract ladybugs, lacewings, and parasitic wasps. These natural predators will eat aphids and other small pests for you.
Neem Oil or Insecticidal Soap: These are effective organic options for soft-bodied insects. They must contact the pest directly. Apply in the early evening to avoid harming beneficial insects and to prevent leaf burn from the sun.
Maintain Plant Health: A stressed rose is more suseptible. Water at the base (not overhead), provide good air circulation, and fertilize appropriately. Healthy roses can outgrow minor pest damage.

When to Consider Further Action

If non-chemical methods aren’t enough, you have other options. Always choose the most targeted product available.

Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt): A natural bacteria that specifically targets caterpillars and sawfly larvae. It is safe for people, pets, and beneficial insects.
Systemic Insecticides: These are absorbed by the plant and can protect it from sap-sucking and chewing pests for several weeks. Use them sparingly and as a last resort, as they can also affect pollinators if applied when the plant is in bloom.
Physical Barriers: For deer and rabbits, fencing is the most reliable solution. For insects, floating row covers on susceptible new growth can provide protection, but remember to remove them for pollination if needed.

Preventing Future Infestations

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure, as the old saying goes.

Clean Up in Fall: Remove fallen leaves and debris where pests can overwinter. Prune out any diseased or infested canes before winter sets in.
Diversify Your Garden: Mixing roses with other plants makes it harder for pests to find them. Strong-scented herbs like garlic or onions can also deter some insects.
Choose Resistant Varieties: Some rose cultivars are bred to be more pest-resistant. Do a little research before you buy new plants for your garden.
Monitor Regularly: Make a quick pest check part of your weekly gardening routine. Catching a few aphids early is much easier than dealing with a full-blown colony.

FAQ: Common Rose Pest Questions

Q: What are the tiny green bugs on my rose buds?
A: Those are almost certainly aphids. A strong spray of water or an application of insecticidal soap usualy takes care of them.

Q: How do I stop beetles from eating my roses?
A: For Japanese beetles, hand-picking is very effective. You can also use pheromone traps, but place them far away from your roses so they draw beetles away from, not to, your plants.

Q> What makes holes in rose leaves?
A: Large, irregular holes are often from caterpillars. Small, round holes can be from leafcutter bees, which are actually beneficial pollinators and should be left alone.

Q: Why are my rose buds turning brown and not opening?
A: This could be thrips or rose budworms feeding inside. Gently peel open a affected bud to look for tiny insects or larvae. Proper sanitation in fall helps reduce their numbers.

Q: Is the sticky stuff on my leaves from pests?
A: Yes, that sticky honeydew is a waste product from aphids, scale, or other sap-sucking insects. It often leads to a black, sooty mold growth on the surface bellow it.

Dealing with pests is a normal part of rose gardening. By learning to identify the signs and acting quickly with the right method, you can keep your plants healthy and blooming beautifully. Remember, the goal is managment, not necessarily complete eradication—a few pests help sustain the beneficial insects that work for you.